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A not-so-hypothetical question

Ok, here's the question....

If the opportunity presented itself, would you sell a significant portion of your collection in order to acquire a single, significant item (card, memoriabilia, etc.)? That is, would you rather have one significant item in your collection, or many smaller items (ie. do you want a T-206 Honus or the rest of the set, assuming equal value to both)?

And the event driving this question... I have been given such an opportunity. Essentially, I would need to sell 60-65 percent of my existing collection value-wise in order to purchase the item. The cost of the item precludes simply borrowing the $.

Thoughts?

-
JR

Comments

  • ha ive come across the same dilemma, and have chosen to sell off about 35% of my collection for one card- a 1955 Parkhurst Jacques Plante PSA 8 rookie card
  • murcerfanmurcerfan Posts: 2,329 ✭✭
    If you really love something, only sell if you are confident that you could replace it in the future.

  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    In a choice between less quality stuff or more junky stuff -- I always suggest a flight to quality. If you are convinced of the value/historical importance/etc. of the significant item, I would suggest go for it. Most of the lesser stuff can be replaced, eventually, should you desire it. Opportunities for the high-quality neat stuff do not come up too often.

    For example -- I wouldn't be surprised if there were people out there who were selling off certain cards/sets in order to pursue some of the rare, unopened stuff offered by Mastro.

    MS
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • Been there done that and glad I did!
  • Less stuff!

    I am currently looking at downsizing my current collection from a shoebox down to half a shoebox, to get more capital for some rumored cards coming up.

    When the deal is done please tell us what is was for!
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  • murcerfanmurcerfan Posts: 2,329 ✭✭
    Danny.
    downsize that Rizzuto S-M to me image
  • murcerfan -

    Sorry, but there is still room in the half shoebox for that one. It will take my wife to make me get rid of that one instead of Mr. Jablonski.

    And if she finds another house, you will be the first person I call! image
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  • murcerfanmurcerfan Posts: 2,329 ✭✭
    talk is cheap.
  • 1420sports1420sports Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭
    I agree with Marc, and I am currently taking a dstudeba route. One thing I really enjoy about this hobby are the twists and turns I take in my efforts and collection. I can go from searching for a Joe Blow to finding one. Pretty soon I find myself with too many Joe Blows and realize I would really like to own a Cobb. So after keeping it for a while, I then sell it and get something else.

    collecting various PSA and SGC cards
  • helionauthelionaut Posts: 1,555 ✭✭
    Yep, I'd actually prefer it if I could consolidate the various detritus of my collections into, say, a PSA 6 Sport Kings Ruth or a Showcase #4. In my whole house, only a few choice singles, my Frank Thomas collection, my runs of Cerebus, Flash, and Grendel, a few OOP books, and some artwork are untouchable. And the Frank collection I'd keep only because it's up to about 900 cards and I've been working on it for 13 years. It would be such a giant pain to try to start again.
    WANTED:
    2005 Origins Old Judge Brown #/20 and Black 1/1s, 2000 Ultimate Victory Gold #/25
    2004 UD Legends Bake McBride autos & parallels, and 1974 Topps #601 PSA 9
    Rare Grady Sizemore parallels, printing plates, autographs

    Nothing on ebay
  • kobykoby Posts: 1,699 ✭✭
    Generally I would say go for the big card, but not always. Much will depend on what you intend to purchase and what you are giving up.

    If the choice were the T206Wagner in PSA 1 poor condition or the T206 set w/o the Wagner (all slabbed PSA 4 and assuming same value) I would go for the set minus the Wagner.

    If the choice were between the PSA 10 Sportsking Cobb and the 1952 Topps set all PSA 8 sold a year ago, I would go for the 1952 set.

    If the choice were between a PSA 10 1986 Jordan and two PSA 9 1986 fleer sets, I think I would go for the two sets.



  • I would definately sell and go for the quality,especially if the item being offered is not one that comes around very often.Most cards are available at least a few times a year.Also,if your item is worth that much now,What might it be worth down the road?

    Just my .02 worth!!


    And if you do the deed,by all means let us in on the moment.We all like an "ooo and ahh" every now and them.

    Vic
    Please be kind to me. Even though I'm now a former postal employee, I'm still capable of snapping at any time.
  • BoopottsBoopotts Posts: 6,784 ✭✭
    Hi Jim-

    I think on something like this you almost have to approach it from an investment standpoint. If it's something that you think will appreciate considerably over time, then it's probably a no-brainer. If not, or if you think those items you'd have to sell will appreciate faster than the blue-chip item in question, then I'd really have to think about it if I were you.

    Obviously, if you really want it then that trumps all other concerns. This is, after all, a hobby. But when the decision is close-- and it sounds like it is, otherwise you probably wouldn't have solicited opinions-- then I tend to go with the option that I think will be the most profitable. If nothing else this keeps you from second guessing yourself years down the road, as at least you can always tell yourself you made the most informed decision at the time, given the knowledge you then had at your disposal.

    To this end, I'd say do it for sure IF the item in question is either a) pre-war, or b) something which could not conceivably carry its current premium because of the peculiararities of today's collecting climate. So, for instance, I'd sell it all for something like a T205 Christy Mathewson in PSA 8 (the most beautiful card ever, IMO, or at least tied for 1st with the '53 Bowman Color Reese and the '58 Parkhurst Jacques Plante). But I wouldn't do it for for a '67 Mantle PSA 10. Why? Because there's no guarantee that we've found all the Mantles, and there's certainly no guarantee that the PSA 10 label will carry the same clout in 20 years that it does now. A PSA 8 will always 'basically' be considered a mint card; but it's possible that, years from now, a PSA 9 or 10 will be seen as being essentially the same as an 8, which will drive the price down. Of course it could go the other way too, but why gamble? We've seen shifts in the general paradigm before when it comes to the nuances of grading (remember when anything centered 80/20, with 4 reasonable corners, was considered 'mint'?), so there's no reason to think this won't happen again.

    Anyway, best of luck whatever you do. And don't keep us in the dark!! Tell us what you're looking to pull the trigger on!!!image
  • NickMNickM Posts: 4,895 ✭✭✭
    I would also look at whether there is historical value to the piece - game-used memorabilia is much more significant than a card, even one that is old and in high grade. An item that is important will have much more meaning to you than one that is simply expensive.

    Nick
    image
    Reap the whirlwind.

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