Need help controlling my ego...9's vs. 10's...

downgoesfrazier

We've all been there. We turn a 9 on a card that BLOWS our 10 out of the water--or turn a 10 that doesn't equal our 9, etc. Recently, I've sold a handful of 10's that are weaker than the 9 I hold behind it to raise some cash toward finishing the set, but this hurts the GPA, of course. I am curious how some of you guys justify keeping your weaker 10's or selling them--whichever. My ego keeps tugging at me "Go for the highest GPA" ... then reason sets in: "Take the best card AND your money and RUN!"...this issue is applicable to all grades of course, I just thought your reasoning would be interesting.

dgf

Davino

It depends on the amount of $ difference between the 9 & 10, if the amount to be realized by selling an overgraded "10" can justify it's sale if you have a stronger "9" in hand, then do it! Does that make sense?

aconte

dgf,

We've 'talked' before so you should know my opinion. It is definitely tough. Sell the other certs like the Twitchell card you sold.
Keep in mind that if the cert holder ever decided to aggressively chase the 77 Topps set you would either lose your top
ranking or be forced to compromise. If the price is right, take it and don't look back...

Good luck!

aconte

Virtualizard

I'd be a hypocrite if I told you that I always buy the card and not the holder. I definitely have some 10s that don't compare to my 9s of the same card. In this case, for the most part, I have kept both the 9 and 10 in my collection. Although it is always in the back of my mind that I can sell the overgraded 10s (and in some cases 9s that don't measure up to my 8s), I do generally try to keep the GPA as high as possible. It sucks to lose the #1 position on the registry! There, I said it. I have experienced it in the past. But, I still like to know that I have the nicest possible cards. That's why I've turned more to my own submissions lately (even with my 1960 Topps set). However, I will still go after 10s for my sets rather agressively.

JEB.

downgoesfrazier

I wanted to chime back in and say that it doesn't necessarily mean that the 10 I would sell was overgraded. More often than not--in my case--the 9 is undergraded. Tony, the Twitchell is a perfect example. That card is a 10 all day long. Perfect centering, focus and steak-cutting corners, the 9 I turned was from the same case run and had all that but a slightly better color-strike and no "micro-booger" in the position flag. I hear what you're sayin' though. What I want to know is what do YOU guys do--not necessarily what you think I should do.

dgf

mikeschmidt

I think that there are some salient features that are more important in terms of a collector's eye appeal and perhaps in conflict with PSA's official stated grading system. Most notably -- a card that is 55/45 looks off-centered in a PSA 10 holder -- but a PSA 9 that is 50/50 often looks better. However, if you take out the 10x loupe and look at those corners -- sometimes the differences are suddenly apparent why the 9 is only a 9.

All that being said -- I do have some 9s that are nicer than my 10s. But I often can figure out why a 9 is a 9 (e.g. what kept it from being a 10), and it is not always obvious from a careful eye-only inspection. The technical qualifications make it apparent.

aconte

dgf,

Ok sorry for the non-answer.

I've got similar issues with a couple Sgc red man cards. In that case I register the higher graded card but keep both.
I have an Sgc 86 1954 Piersall that is nicer than my 88. And I agree that we both might not think the one card is overgraded.
So in the one example I keep both. However, I've also had it where I thought my seven was way better than the eight. In this
case it might of involved which card to cross for my sets. I then decide to keep the seven and cross and sell the eight. It
is not easy though keeping a lower graded card.

So I hope this is an answer based on my experiences.

Good luck.

aconte

cmcclelland

Phil,

What I do varies from set to set. But, in the case of the mainstream 1970's stuff, I would say I have faced the same issue as you, but I was mostly dealing with a decision between 8's and 9's. My decision early on (and I have no regrets making it) was that with the exception of a few cards that I really have a particular affinity for (i.e. George Brett cards among others), I was going to sell ALL of my 9's (and in the rare cases where I got 10's - sell them as well) and be perfectly happy with a nice solid 8. Based on the economics of 8's vs. 9's for 70's stuff, I have been able to use profits from the sale of 9's to drastically reduce, or even eliminate altogether, the amount of money I have invested in a particular 70's set.

Now, for other sets that I am a little more fanatical about (like 1971 Greatest Moments), I have to confess that I sometimes fall into the trap of buying the holder rather than the card. However, even in the case of 1971 Greatest Moments, I don't think I would hang on to a 9 (there have only been a very small number of 9's ever graded) because I would rather cash out and use the money to upgrade other cards in my set.

That's my 2 cents on your question.

Basilone

With modern 70's mainstream stuff....sell the 10s take the money an run.



edited to add:



<< <i>What I want to know is what do YOU guys do--not necessarily what you think I should do. >>



Sorry...I just read your latest post.....unfortunately I have not been a benefactor of PSA 10s from the 70s...

downgoesfrazier

Schmitty,
I understand you. In the cases of I'm speaking of, however, there is nothing--even under 10x 100-watt scrutiny that would account for the grades. We're talking obvious cases here. Published standard or not, we're talking about 9's (or 8's, etc.) beating 10's and does your set-building ego allow you to sell the inferior 10 (albeit a legit one in most cases) or keep that GPA huge! Again, just because your 9 beats your 10 does not automatically mean the 10 is a dog or overgraded. It's just that on a different day the cards could switch places and most discerning eyes would agree with the switch.

Curious, how many of you have put vending twins on the same invoice. You put the softer card first and then BAM the blazer right behind it. The funny thing is when the softer card lands a 10 and you sit there holding the 9 like..."What the..."

Also, you may want to email me...I have an idea where you might land a REALLY special card for your collection...

We all love the registry, I just like to know how we justify holding stacks of 8's, 9's and 10's of some cards because of the different flip info and nothing more.


dgf

Tony,
Thanks for the post,
PA

downgoesfrazier

Colt,
With the quality you sell, I appreciate your 1977 liquidation more than you know. Your cards were top-shelf all the way.

dgf

wolfbear

It's the same for 7's vs 8's, 8's vs 9's, and 9's vs 10's.

For this example let's say I have an 8 I like better than a 9.
What I do is similar to Tony. I keep them both and note it on that set's spreadsheet.
Then I keep looking for a 9 for that slot, the same as if I didn't have one.

Once I find a 9 that looks superior to both the old 8 and old 9, I keep it and sell the other two.

Not everyone agrees on how important centering, corner sharpness, focus, registration, print spots,
gloss, back of card, and on and on are, so your choice of the better card may not be the one I'd pick.

highend

i feel that a PSA 10 , for the most part , didn't get into that holder by accident, while the difference between a high end 9 and a 10 can be subtle. i agree with MIKESCMIDT it often has to do with the slight technical qualifications.
if it were feasible for me to build a set in 9 & 10 then of course i would prefer a 10 over a 9. my primary focus is my 72 set, and doing that in 9 & 10 is NOT a consideration , a straight 9 set would be nearly impossible for me , but a 50-50 split between 8's and 9's is very attainable in time. by moving my 10's i was able to make progress that could have taken months in the matter of days. i would only be interested in keeping a 10 or pursuing a 10 if it were one of my favorite players (munson, murcer, reggie or nettles). i also think the tens are far better suited for the top few registry sets for the given year.