Proof vs Non-Proof
GottaGetCoins
Posts: 207
What is more challenging to put together type sets?
What area is more flexible? Interesting?
Looking for opinions
What area is more flexible? Interesting?
Looking for opinions
GottaGetCoins
Currently attempting the 12 Coin US Gold Type Set and the 20th Century US Major Coin Type Set. Completed a Franklin Half Proof Set.
Currently attempting the 12 Coin US Gold Type Set and the 20th Century US Major Coin Type Set. Completed a Franklin Half Proof Set.
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We'll use our hands and hearts and if we must we'll use our heads.
The proof coins will definately show you exactly what the type should look like, but proofs don't do well in albums with acetate slides due to ease of hairlines in fields and accelerated toning.
For modern coins, business strikes (or "non-proof," as you say) are my preference, and some can be quite tough to acquire in pristine condition, even from the 70s to the 2000s. I find modern proofs much less interesting, and you can acquire PQ modern proofs pretty easily.
Old coins, especially gold, I prefer proofs. But look at some of the prices for old proof gold: stratospheric.
For moderns, some will say proofs are more interesting to collect. For example, review past messages here about proof Mercuries, Buffaloes, Ikes, Franklins and Kennedys, and the quest for the holy grail: deep cameo proofs. I've come to appreciate the quality of these coins. Now, are these proofs better to collect than their business strike brethren? Well, that's up to you.
It's like mdwoods said - it depends how far back you go. Morgan and Barber proofs are much more expensive then their MS counterparts.
In my type album I use modern proofs and circulation strikes for pre-1964 coins
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