What is more important to you?
goodriddance189
Posts: 2,388 ✭✭
completing a set quicker, at the expense of a lower GPA,
or taking longer to put together a set with a higher GPA?
i.e.- would you rather finish a 100% completed set with a 6.88 GPA
or maintain an 8 GPA throughout, regardless of how long it takes you to finish (if ever)?
or taking longer to put together a set with a higher GPA?
i.e.- would you rather finish a 100% completed set with a 6.88 GPA
or maintain an 8 GPA throughout, regardless of how long it takes you to finish (if ever)?
0
Comments
For me it would be quicker. I would than upgrade over time. In fact, that's what i do today with pre-war cards.
I think for people that collect post-war it may be a little easier to go straight 8 the whole way through because 8's are usually available from time to time.
As you know in our sport (hockey) your lucky to find 6's and 7's over a years time.
Mike
Vintage Football Card Gallery
btw, i couldnt repond to your PM because the page closes every time i click respond.
For my preferences, it seems rather silly to buy cards with the intent to flip them in the future to upgrade. We all do that to some extent on the Registry, but moving from a 7 to an 8 is one thing, or, in modern, from a 9 to 10. But starting with a 5 or 6 solely to fill a space borders on impatience in my mind.
<< <i>...starting with a 5 or 6 solely to fill a space borders on impatience in my mind. >>
Marc, I agree for the most part.
I am currently taking my time with my 1960 Topps Baseball set. I love this set, but I have decided to do it in PSA 8 with no deviation (unless of course I can pick up a nice PSA 9 cheap or I get one on one of my submissions). I have really enjoyed doing a set this way so far. I do not go all out to get any card, but bid reasonably on cards that I need. I have accumulated almost 90 cards from this set since I started it about a year ago, and I feel that I have not overpaid on any card (except for a few that I purchased from Jay
I am also working on a Willie Stargell master set, and a lot of the cards in the set have come from my own submissions. I have received some PSA 5 and 6 grades, but they are the only graded examples. I happily add them to my set, even though it drops my GPA big time. After adding the cards from my last submission, my GPA dropped from 8.25 to 8.14 with only 5 cards added to the set. All 5 are the only graded examples and still look great! That's what it's all about for me. Hopefully I'll be able to upgrade them in the future, but if not, they will most likely remain the only graded examples (or at least the highest graded in most cases).
Good thread, Will. I still need a few T218s to finish my set. I'd be happy to buy some from you if you have any that I need. Let me know.
JEB.
You do bring up a good point.
For example, with my Mike Schmidt Registry set, I plan on adding silly oddballs like:
1977 Topps Venezuelan Sticker
1982 FBI Bantam disc
etc.
They will get very low grades, and I know that. To the extent that the grade is unimportant in overall value, no worries. I would not fill up a set with PSA 6 commons knowing I would upgrade in the future (unless it was a pre-war set, where upgrades may be few and far between).
With my 1955 Bowman set, there was a point that I got frustrated and finished it off in PSA 7. But, then again, it is one of the only (if not the only) major 1950s sets that has never been completed in PSA 8 NM/MT or equivalent condition. When people choose masochistic sets, they must have realistic expectations. I've been working on the Bowman set for over five years....and still have a ways to go
On the sets I collect, I think it's important to look at the end first.
What set do you want to end up with?? And in what condition???
To me, a set with 4's and 9's sitting next to 6's and 10's, just doesn't do anything for me. So I think the longer, more stable, challange works for me.
For example...
Some of the MSA Disc sets I collect are very easy to get in PSA 10. It's somewhat of a challange on the last few cards, but most of it is pretty easy. On those sets, I set my sights on a complete set..All 10's..knowing that within a years time, I should be able to say "done". On the other hand, there are some Disc sets that just don't come up that often, or, are that nice to begin with ( '76 Red Barn Discs come to mind...). On those sets, I set my goals a little lower. Maybe an all 8 set could be finished.
Kellogg's sets are a little different altogether... My goals are complete sets of PSA 10's, and this will take me a lifetime to complete. K cards are both ends of the spectrum...Some years are easy and some tougher, some years have players that seem to always "pop" a 10 and zip the next year...And then there are the mysteries that nobody seems to be able to answer....The "1975's..???".. Anyway, I'll be pluggin' away until I'm old and gray...wait a minute....I am old and gray......LOL...
For the older sets I'm working on, I look at a obtainable, complete set in the years to come. My 1959 Topps set is built with 8's. I don't chase 9's or upgrades past PSA 8. Same thing with my '54 Red Heart set, '61 Fleer set, and the rest.
So, my response is ...slower with a consistant and honorable GPA......
Thanks for the thread Will...
Larry
email....emards4457@msn.com
CHEERS!!
<< <i>But starting with a 5 or 6 solely to fill a space borders on impatience in my mind. >>
i agree, but for what i collect (hockey), there isn't much available.
i'll post the rest of whatever i was gonna say tomorrow, cause im drunker than hell
<< <i>
<< <i>But starting with a 5 or 6 solely to fill a space borders on impatience in my mind. >>
i agree, but for what i collect (hockey), there isn't much available.
i'll post the rest of whatever i was gonna say tomorrow, cause im drunker than hell >>
haha. i do not remember writing this. thats what 12 beers in 2.5 hours will do to you.
the worst part is getting that 8 and, 2 weeks later the 9 show's up on ebay and sells for only 20 bucks more than your new 8.
I want the most bang for my buck (oops wrong forum again).
If someone has 20 PSA 7 cards and they go for $30 altogether that seems like good value if I need the cards even if I want the set in PSA 8+.
If I am collecting a set in PSA 7 and I see a PSA 9 cheap I jump.
Taz
Always looking for 1957 Topps BB in PSA 9!
you complete however you can and then upgrade. That keeps you from paying
crazy dollars for a PSA 8 just because there are 2 of you intent on each bidding
to win....there were cards, I think like 1967 Wes Parker PSA 8 that went into mutiple
hundreds because skylaneflyer and I were each intent on winning by placing some
ridiculously high bid near the end of the auction....usually when you do that another
one shows up on ebay the next week and goes for a song.
1967and 1973 Topps baseball wantlists (any condition) welcome. Once had the #14 ATF 1967 set. Yet another collector like skylaneflyer, gimel1 who made it to the completion of 1967 only to need the money more than the company of 609 close friends.
Looking for oddball Norm Cash and Cleon Jones stuff, and 1956 team cards
When things slowed down it was just upgrade where needed until an empty space could be filled.Sort of an as you go along see what you can do thing.
My Auctions
I agree if your intentions are to eventually get an 8 or 9, but what if those grades are your focus? I have started the 1952 Bowman set and my plans revolve around a goal of PSA 5 - 6. These are the grades that I am comfortable paying for and, more importantly, I still think a decently centered card with bright color is a good card. Actually, an excellent to excellent-mint card by definition.