Newbie question on vintage cards

blackchip

I've got a set of 52 Topps I'd like to get checked by PSA. Since some of them are fairly valuable - how do you know you get back the same cards you sent in or even that they don't get "lost" by the shipper.

If I have to get them "appraised" for insurance before I ship them in to get "appraised" again it doesn't make sense.

I'm asking about PSA since I understand it is the best - not accusing them of trying to swap cards.

This is the actual situation and I'd appreciate any help. TIA.

AlanAllen

Welcome to the boards. I'll answer your second question first - estimate the value yourself and send them registered mail insured for the whole amount. Registered mail is kept under lock and key, and there are rarely problems with it. If there are problems, you can collect on the insurance. Alternately, and preferably, you can go to a show where PSA is set up and submit them in person. They can also help you out there as to the best way to submit them, get an idea about grades, etc. They are setting up at shows in Houston, Long Beach, LA, Inglewood, San Francisco, Fort Washington PA, and Chicago over the next few months. You can also submit at their offices the first Saturday every month. For something the caliber of a '52 Topps set, I'm sure they would make an appointment and let you drop them off whenever. If you want to sell, you might consider consigning through a large auction house like Mastro that would screen and submit for you.

How do you know they won't switch the cards? First, they have very little to gain and way too much to lose if they engaged in that practice. PSA is a subsidiary of Collectors Universe, a publically traded company (CLCT). They do millions of dollars per year in sales, and would not jeopardize that for a few thousand dollars. Also, every step of the process is videotaped to ensure a rogue employee does not slip a card into their pocket. Finally, there are no credible instances of that happening that I know of. Some people with an agenda have tried to put forth that idea, but it just doesn't happen.

No I don't work for PSA, but I probably came off as quite a PSA shill, eh?

Good luck,
Joe

p.s. Are you a blackjack player?

Wabittwax

I wouldn't recommend using somebody else to submit your cards. There is way too much opportunity there to switch cards by the person sending them in for you. As for PSA, I don't think you have anything to worry about with them. They are top notch. If it makes you nervous, make close up scans of them all first. If you want to find out if they are worth grading, it's best to find somebody locally. Insurance would cost a lot both ways. If you do send them, send them registered, the insurance is cheaper. On 1952's, you only need 3's and 4's to make them worth grading fees, so if it was me, I'd submit the whole set anyways just to have it done.

1954

Blackchip-
Welcome to the boards. I know exactly how you feel about sending in your cards. I remember the first submission that I sent in was the four free grades by joining. I sent in three vintage cards from the 50's and one modern card that I thought was a PSa 10. I got the box back two weeks later. I was so excited . I tore into the box to find ONE card graded. The modern card received a PSA 9 and the three vintage cards that I had put on the invoice as minimum grade of a PSA 8, did not get graded. I felt so stupid. PSA ended up giving me the grading fees back so I could resubmit those cards. They all received PSA 7's and I was happy with that. My point is once you send them some cards, you get addicted. Once a couple of positive transactions occur, you won't think twice about your fears. PSA is a wonderful and very trusting company. I have submitted over 15,000 cards with them and they have almost been flawless. They do make a mistake here and there, but they are the best.

I know what I would do if I were you, but I don't want to discuss it on the boards. If you are interested, please email me at shaneleo@aol.com.
best of luck
1954

onegaucho

With a set like the 52s, I'd actually consider taking them in yourselves. Depending on where you live, PSA attends several major shows per year. That would cover the problem of someone else swapping your cards before they got to grading.

If anything, if you sign up with PSA, you'll get 4 free gradings. Take some lesser commons from the set that you think will grade well and try it out first.

Good luck and welcome!

Hubcap

You might want to have a PSA collector look at the cards before you waste a ton of money getting them graded. Not all cards should be graded and that is a matter of long time experience.

1954

That is great advice hubcap. I totally agree.

1954

Corrected for spelling

Hubcap

Thanks 1954. *smile* I can't tell you the number of collectors that get real hyped up about their cards ( and rightly so!!!) and then we look at them under a loop. No disrespect but we all thought they were mint years ago when we bought them. Anyhow, 1952 is a beautiful set regardless of being graded or raw. Just be cautious about spending your hard earned dollars and avoid being disappointed when the lower grades come back. Hopefully, you will get all 7's, 8's and 9's!!!!!! Good luck.

blackchip

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the replies. (Yes my moniker refers to my blackjack play - lol)

From what I've read here the best approach for me is probably to find a show nearby and run them by a PSA rep.

I'm really not interested in selling them, I was just curious as to what they "could" be worth and insuring them (with proof of value) along with some similar sets of Topps and Bowmans.

My guess is the next step will be to get the high value cards graded unless they can give me a deal on the sets.

NickM

blackchip - I would advise the following for where grading adds value for 1952 Topps. Follow the standard for the first category the card falls into.
High numbers (311-407) should be graded in any condition (even PSA 1).
Mays should be graded in any condition.
Page or Sain errors should be graded in any condition.
Very popular Hall of Famers (e.g., Berra, Snider) should be graded in PSA 2 or above condition.
Less popular Hall of Famers (e.g., Slaughter, Kell, Lemon) should be graded in PSA 3 or above condition
Pafko, Hodges, Kluszewski, Billy Martin, Minoso, and Dom DiMaggio should be graded in PSA 3 or above condition.
Any Dodgers or Yankees should be graded in PSA 3 or above condition.
1st series cards (1-80) and semi-high series cards (251-310) should be graded in PSA 4 or above condition.
Other cards should be graded in PSA 5 or above condition.
I do a lot more tracking on this set than buying, but I would not get your average PSA 3 common graded - too many of them sell at $10 or under.

Nick

roastedcat

Blackchip- I trust PSA to grade all my cards, I'm also a vintage collector and collect Pre 30's every card I've submitted I've had great results except for 1. But if your still in doubt, try and take good pictures of your cards before submitting them in. Key word is "Focus," this way you can blow up the picture and see the same card that was submitted.

When ever I submit a valuable card, I scan it in my hard drive just to have some refrence.


Jery

1954

blackchip-
I hope that my offer to contact you was not taken as a soliciation to buy your cards, but a way to maximize your cost for grading/ errors on sending in cards that should be looked at first by a professional.

1954

scottsusor

I'd bet that almost everybody has some degree of trepidation prior to their first submission. I know I did. I scoured as many sources of information I could find on PSA and it was overwhelmingly positive. Yeh, a few naysayers here and there but let's face it -- PSA is in a business that is going to have its share of detractors and negativists. My experience with them has been excellent, and that includes all but one interaction with their customer service folks. One female customer service person was downright rude but all other communications I've had with them have been patient, educational and courteous. I just joined in late 2003 and though I don't always agree with the grade they give a particular card, overall I've been highly impressed. Go for it, and good luck on your grades!

Scott

onegaucho

blackchip- just out of curiosity, do you have any idea what condition these are in? Did you get this as a gift or did you put it all together yourself?

KING KELLOGG

blackchip...


Welcome to the boards !!



(I also love the "gaming" thing...)


I vote for the National in Vegas !!!



Larry

qualitycards

BC - Why don't you scan a few cards at random, and we will give you our 2 cents regarding what to look for.
I don't want to sound like a wise-ass, but are these the original cards issued in '52, or possibly the reprint set that Topps made 30 years later?. At my store I had dozens of people coming in w/ cards that they thought were genuine, only to find out they were not.
Many swore that they were real and they had them for a long time, so they weren't trying to pull anything, many just wanted to know their value...jay

blackchip

To answer the above questions:

I didn't put the set together myself - you can probably tell from my questions that I don't know much about the "card business". When growing up I spent a lot of time reading and "memorizing" the cards and stats even though they were way before my time. My own card collection as a kid consisted of a very few cards of the stars and my favorite team - Cardinals I'm just lucky to have a relative who was a real afficianado and for some reason collected the very cards that turned out to be in demand. I'm not sure why he picked those particular sets or those years since they were collected way way before the baseball card boom. They are the original issue and have been stored in sleeves for a long time. Haven't looked at them much since I was a kid, but I've always been impressed by the players and like many others consider them to represent a sort of golden age of baseball.

I don't intend to sell them since they are more sentimental than $. I'm more interested in getting an idea of what they're worth for insurance purposes since some may be valuable. If anybody has any insurance tips that would be great.

Thanks for the pointers. Hope that answers some of your questions.

1954 - no offense taken on the offer of info. I just don't happen to be using my email when I 'm on this forum. I'd like to hear your tips and will try to remember to send you an email. I've turned on the PM function if anybody has any double top secret tips. TIA.

qualitycards

BC - Regarding $ value, the PSA SMR guide lists the '52 Topps set in NM PSA-7 grade at $90,000, and a set in NM/MT PSA-8 at $275,000.00
Obviously if your cards contain more wear the $ values go down...jay