A complaint......

MSD61

Mind if I complain? What does it take to get a decent 1973-S 40% silver Ike proof that no one has screwed around with? Now I can understand the reasons folks buy slabbed coins. So unless I buy a slabbed 73-S (Note to self NO NTC, PCI, NGC, NGI, CIA,FBI slabbed coins) or a brown box 73-S ike and remove the haze myself it will be the only way I know that it's been handled correctly. I am sending back the one I got today. Oh yes, the fields are haze free just as I requested, but with the big nick and scratches on the check I doubt it would grade PR60 Sorry I just had to vent

Mike

mkrone

Disappointed you are looking to dip it yourself.

JohnZ

Mike, I spent 2 years collecting a complete raw IKE set. I'll tell you exactly what it takes.

Go to every dealer, every show that you can, buy every coin that looks good on eBay and through mail order, and promptly return anything that doesn't meet your high standards. The fun is in the hunt.

My collection is in a Dansco album, and I've even bought some slabbed coins which I cracked out.

wallstreetman

<< <i> big nick and scratches on the check I doubt it would grade PR60 >>



Maybe the nicks and scratches messed up the numbers on the check and he sent you a coin that reflected the lower amount!

JohnZ

Maybe the nicks and scratches messed up the numbers on the check and he sent you a coin that reflected the lower amount!

That's a very real possibility. It's happened to me!

Keep a record of the pics on an auction for future reference.

MSD61

Hi all,
Well that's what I'm doing buying all that looks good and returning, or selling off, the one I can't. Dipping?? no more like learning to use MS70 to remove the haze. The 76-S silver looks great but I bought a proof set for that one. The clad proofs I have been taking out of the proof sets I've bought and haven't been dis-pleased with those. 73 and 74 silvers have been a problem. What I did, and I learned something from this, is bought a 73-S silver that a ebay dealer cracked out of a brown box Ike and told me he would MS70 it to remove the haze for me at no charge. As I said, it was haze free but had a large nick on the fore head and a few small scratches on the cheek. While I've had fun searching for them I also have been frustrated. To any newbies trust when a vet says says to you that it is better to buy a coin when you can hold it in YOUR hands and inspect it. Yes, ebay and online dealers have pics but a lot of them are stock photos. now when I see a good looking coin I will email the seller and ask them " is this the coin or a stock photo?" the honest ones will answer, the not so honest will not. It's all a learning experience for me. But I will WIN!

Mike

MFH

Back in the early to mid 1970's I bought quite a few Brown Boxed Proof Ike's and Blue Pack Ike's directly from the Mint. The proofs all have an amber haze but the unc's are still blast white.

The proofs were in hard plastic holders which must have let gases being emitted from the boxes in, causing the film that these coins now possess. The unc's were sealed air tight with some form of "crimping" device.

I don't have the expertise at "conserving" the proofs; what recommendations does everyone have ?

JohnZ

Acetone bath. Get pure acetone from a hardware store. Fingernail polish has too many additives. Rinse with distilled water. Ordinary tap is too hard. Cleans the haze right up. (Sometimes...)

atarian

you know about my 1973 S ike the 64 grade one i got that for a few $$ only raw but i can see at 62 or 63 out of it.

cladking

I find the '74 brown Ike to be much tougher than the '73. Nearly 80% will have problems.

HavanaJoe

I've got a 1973-S proof. Not sure if it's 40%, it was broken out of a 1973 Proof Set and put in an air tite a few years back. Actually, ALL of the coins in the 1973 set were put in airtites. Looks pretty good to me, but I'm an SAE guy, not an Ike guy. I only have the set because I was born in '73.

cladking

The Ikes in the regular proof sets were Cu Ni clad and generally are well made and well preserved.

It's the 40% silver proof Ikes of '73 and '74 which are usually found in poor condition. I've always
suspected it was caused by a wash or something at the mint.

Bochiman

I bought a 74-S (Brown Box) from a forum member with some others.....yes, it has hazing, but I did want it in the brown box (completion for me).
I also bought an unopened mint box of 5 Brown Box Ikes (1973-S) from ebay. I am very sure it was a true unopened box.
I got a really nice one, a couple nice ones, and 1 with some hazing and 1 with even more hazing.
I will ebay a couple of them soon and am going to try for ~$20 or so (my actual cost) each.

I will agree that 73-S and 74-S are hard.....I did get a complete Dansco from a dealer without the hazing on those 2, but after reading on the forum about those years, I can bet they were dipped.
I am trying to do another set right now so my son and I can each have one.


Ron

Coppernicus

I've seen at on of ugly Ikes from the 70's - both MS and proof. I finally bought a '76 Silver proof in a 69DCAM PCGS holder for my "Bicentennial set." It was the only way I could get the quality I wanted. I haven't cracked it out, though.

If you dip, use acetone as suggested, not nail polish remover. And be very careful with the acetone. Not only is it very flammable, but the fumes are heavier than air so they creep along the floor. You may not get a strong whiff sitting at the table, but Fido is hurting!! My cat still hates me for my first acetone adventure.

Mike