Comment on these Merc photos

marcmoish

I'd like some comments on these two photos I've worked on all evening - have been trying out many various ways and angles and I've narrowed it down to these - I'd like to eventually have photos of the entire Merc set up one of these days - I know they don't come close to some of the photo skills on these boards but if they are even somewhat half decent I'll be glad as it takes way too long to perfect every coin and reshoot them over and over and all.

Marc

1916 66FB notice how I seem to pick up that tiny barely noticeable in real life neck scratch in all its glory



1916-S 65FB Ex:Eisenberg

DMWJR

Ive been working on this today also. My first tip would be to arrange your lighting so you don't get the reflection on the slab. You almost have it there in the top two pictures. that has to do with light positioning.

Fairlaneman

Mark from the photos it looks like you are trying to take the picture with the slab laying flat. When I try to take pictures with the coin in this way they come out exactly like yours have.

First I have came up with a High Tech Photo Studio.



In this studio a 1X4 is placed under the White Rag that is used for the background and the slab can be put on it for a little tilt.



If this does not work I bring out the other item I use for slab tilt, a light bulb.



Then a picture is taken with the light shining almost directly down on the coin.



If the picture comes out lifeless then a quick trip to Photo Shop is used to make the coin look somewhat like it does in person.



Please note that these were done quickly this morning just to give you some ideas on how you may get some results with your photos. Oh Yea, the darn camera's really bring out minute flaws, don't they.

As you said it would be very nice too get results like some of the others on the forums but it has not happened here yet.

Ken

marcmoish

Doug, yes it does correct but I kinda like the way that light streak looks but I'll play around more with it......



Ken,

By the time it takes to shoot a few shots on my end to be fair - I've killed about 20 min at least. I see what you saying about the photo shop thing - maybe I'll try that - I know it will take alot more time which is scarce.

I specifically tried using the light source directly above the coin - another forum member ( I forgot whosorry) mentioned it a few days ago about how the Merc's come out much better including the all important bands with light directly over the slab etc.

I'll play around with tilting it later maybe to see what difference I get - but I did try tilting it big time earlier and the photos that came out were horrible. These at least show the coins pretty much for what they are if not too much
Thanks for the detailed tips.



Marc

fcloud

<< <i> but I did try tilting it big time earlier and the photos that came out were horrible >>



Mark,

Don't tilt big time--tilt just enough to keep the reflection from going directly into the lens--tilt little time.

Ken,

Thanks for sharing your methods, you have helped more than just Marc.

Tony

Fairlaneman

Here is another little thingy with Mercs. I like to see detail. In the first photo the light is coming in directly over her head at 12 O'clock. This does away with some of the detail. Wing and feathers.



When the light is left in the same position but the coin is rotated about 45 degrees counter clock wise more detail is picked up. This rotation usually leaves her face looking like there is no luster but when the coin is in a slab most of the time you know decent luster is present. Hey, how about this VF Merc I won on Ebay ?



Ken

fcloud

Ken, Nice VF! What does the other side look like?

Fairlaneman

Just barely a VF...... Actually bought it for the planchet flaw on the obverse between 11 o'clock and midnight.



Ken

Cocoinut

Marc,

You're well on your way. It doesn't take much of a tilt to eliminate the glare and /or reflections.

I copied one of your photos, and used the "quick-fix" option that is a feature on my software, and then resized it so that the height and width were equal, and came up with this:



Get rid of the glare, and you've got a great photo!


Ken, if you got that 1919 for VF money, you got a great deal. I like your "studio"; at least it's not on the floor like mine. I have it set up about 4 or 5 feet inside the patio door. The door faces to the east, so I get the morning sun, and try to take my pictures between 8 and 10 a.m., when there's lots of natural light. I don't let the sun shine directly on the coin, and squat down between the door and the coin, or use the blue file folder as a shield or light deflector. Really high-tech! It's getting crowded there now with all the plants I brought inside for the winter.



Not exactly a professional studio, but it works well enough, and I can disassemble it in a few seconds.

Jim

marcmoish

Jim,

why that 1916-S looks 66+ in your take - in all honesty mine looks more like the picture I took - although I need to fine tune it with some of the suggestions here - Tony, I will try that tonite - perhaps I did assume either big time tilt or no tilt with no thought to teeny tilt.
Jim that setup I woiuld never be able to keep with a 3 year old running around

Ken I'm not exactly sure what you meant abt the 45 degree but I'll try that too....

thank goodness for a quiet weekend now!



Marc

marcmoish

Here is the same 16-S with a "tiny" tilt - I think I do like it better after-all

fcloud

Marc,

Much better. Make sure you lens is clean. It looks a bit hazy.

Fairlaneman

Just a little more tilt and you will pick up more detail. Much better on the second photo.

Jim

I have tried taking photos in natural sun light and it plain does not work with my camera. The pictures come out Blue. I do not understand why it does this with coins unless it is the insert reflecting light. Anyway I must wait untill spring to see the sun again up here.

Ken

Fairlaneman

OK guys here is something else after you get the pictures down. The good folks on the Coin Forum taught me how to finally do this today. I have been beating this thick skull against a brick wall trying to figure out how to do this for over a year. Anyway what do you think of this ?



Ken

marcmoish

Ken,

Holy cow - I love it - if that is what that 40-D really looks like - please let us know or PM how you did that

Just noticed a thread in relation to this in the US Forum - looks complicated - maybe not oh well I doubt I will be able to do this like you





Marc


Edited for excessive babble

Keyrock

ttt - need to push garbage to the bottom

fcloud

Ken,

Great shot! That image looks real.

Tony

egsantos

Hi Guys,
As a third partie interested, thanks for the tips.

Edson

docday2003

ttt

marcmoish

Hi all - here is my finished product after trying everything, and to the best of my ability - I know I don't come close to many but this will have to do. I'm quite pleased as it looks very much like the actual coin(s) Hopefully I'll be able to do the complete set I have so far within next couple of weeks.

Thanks all for the help and support.


Marc


here is one of my favorites - 1917-S 66FB



My only problem now was I could not load the scan/photo I have of OBV & REV (my stitched version) as it was over 50kb whatever at least it loads on the registry.

Keyrock

Very nice pictures!!