Does acetone "neutralize" dip?

I just got a lower valued coin purchased from ebay. Not too horrendous, still has plenty of luster, but it has obviously been dipped. Will acetone neutralize any dip residue that may have been left on the coin?
Alpha Mike Foxtrot
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Russ, NCNE
<< <i>I use 99% isopropyl alcohol as a neutralizing agent. Very effective and, unlike baking soda, non-abrasive. >>
Baking soda seemed like a bad idea when I read about it in some of the numismatic literature. Does alcohol have the proper Ph to neutralize the dip?
I dip, then rinse with water for a long time (relatively), then rinse with alcohol and lastly dry with a hair dryer.
Whats vinegar have to do with anything here? what happens if you add a lit match to acetone (about as relevant as the vinegar) I've use baking soda at least 100 times nothing was ever accelerated. I'd experiment with cheap coins and make up your own mind.
Russ, NCNE
This is something I also do not understand. Why many of those that DO think it acceptable to go ahead and dip a nice silver coin with great luster, think doing the same thing to a mostly red Red/Brown copper coin wil great luster, is wrong. I have seen and dipped copper like this, and have had it it slabbed, why is this any more wrong then dipping a Morgan. Granted you have to be more carefull and selective with copper, since most are not candidates for dipping.
I don't dip a coin simply to enhance its appearance or marketability.
I have sold very very few coins that I have purchased, most of my boo-boo buys, I have given away to the young collectors that will appreciate the coins more then myself. In some cases I will explain why I was not happy with the coin. Examples have been, buying a coin at MS prices, then after more knowlege realizing it was a slider. Bad color, Culls to fill holes, plated coins, colorized coins, you get the picture.
Since I sell VERY VERY few of my coins, I have no desire to RESLAB or CROSSOVER any of my coins. I have only made one exception to this and that was with a two Linc. and two IHC's cents that I cracked from a RB slab's to dip. Three came back a point higher with a full red, the other I did not get so lucky on. They all had great luster, and were btn 80% and 90% red to begin with.
Now my point being I think the coins look much nicer, I'm prouder to own them. They please me more then before the dip. Is this wrong, I don't think so. However many would disagree. The only reason I can think of why they would shun this, is because either A) They buy the same quality of coin that mine looks like now, however have to pay a considerable higher price.
What is the differance between, A) giving your coin an acetone dip to remove some of the haze so your Proof/SMS Kennedy half can grade a point higher.
Answer - Other then two of them making the coins look origianal and the other two making them look more colorfull - NOTHING - They have all been manipulated in a way to give them a better overall appearance to either please the owner, or to make them worth more money, or by having a higher grade by the grading companies which in turns makes them worth more money.
I can admit that I will look at a coin and purchase it a lot cheaper for my collection, knowing in advance that I'm going to do something to the coin to make it look just like they one right next to it, that is selling for perhaps 8'x the amount for the one I purchased.
Have I made mistakes in the past by dipping a coin that should not have been? Certainly, I have a few funny looking pink pennies that are sitting right next to a Brown or Red/Brown coin that had nearlly identical color and luster. I keep these pairs as a referance so I will not make the same mistake again. The same goes with Silver now, before I dip I make sure I have one that looks nearly same in color and luster as the one I'm about to dip, I keep both coins togather as a pair to learn from. Since I've seen few coins that I really really do like toning on, I have never wasted my time trying to accelerate toning on a coin, however if that is what pleases the person, and it pleases the buyer, more power to them, IMO it is no differant then what others are doing to inrich the appearance of coins with aceton baths or dipping.
Bottom line for those of you that b;tch about AT artists and yet dip your own coins. Stop because you are being a hypocrites.
And if you are saying you just dip to remove a bad dips residue, then why waste your money paying for the coin in the first place if you believe dipping is so bad. Once again that is also being a hypcrite buy purchasing what you believe in is wrong.
Just my opinion...............
<< <i>Bottom line for those of you that b;tch about AT artists and yet dip your own coins. Stop because you are being a hypocrites. >>
To whom, specifically, are you referring, CaptainRon?
<< <i>I feel what I am doing is no better or worse then what people do by AT'ing a coin. >>
They are two radically different things. Properly dipping or conserving a coin is an attempt to restore it to the state in which it existed when first minted, and to stabilize and preserve the surfaces. AT'ing a coin is an attempt to radically alter the appearance and done, in most cases, to deceive a buyer in to paying more for the coin.
Russ, NCNE
I sincerely appreciate the input from the informed members.
To say that a proof 66 or 67 coin needs to be dipped because it needs conservation is ludicrous, the reason that coin is dipped is to give it a fighting chance at a 67 or 68. Russ you have stated that yourself have done this in the past. are you now going to tell me the reason you bathed it was to remove a finger print.
They have both been manipulated by a non natural way, bottom line they have both been doctored.
If you are just starting to dip coins however, you may want find pairs that look quite simililar in luster and color before starting, this way you will have a ref in the future as to what look good to you and what does not, and types of coins look the best after a dip.
work on cheap moderns first. Circ coins in my experiance look like crap after a dip so be very carefull before trying them.
1) Dip, 2) Baking Soda Rinse, 3) Water Rinse then an 4) Acetone finish has worked best for me, on ocasion a quick reapeat of 1,2,3
I was by no means trying to slam you, hope this helps out.
<< <i>To say that a proof 66 or 67 coin needs to be dipped because it needs conservation is ludicrous >>
CaptainRon,
One can only assume from that statement that you have little experience with proof coins from the 1950 to 1970 era. Many, if not most, that have been sitting inside proof packaging since minting have developed a variety of surface problems that did not exist when the coin was first produced. In many cases it's not a matter of improving a coin that grades 66 to 67, it's a necessity in order to rescue the coin and make it presentable at all.
Would you rather have this coin in your collection?
Or, this one?
They are the same coin. The difference is, it now looks very much like it did when it was first minted.
The only thing that is "ludicrous" here is your assertion that there is no difference between conserving a coin and artificially toning a coin.
Russ, NCNE
I'm not talking about the extremes like taking a blowtorch to a coin, just like I'm not talking about extremes in Whizzing a coin. I am talking about purposelly manipulating a coin to give it better beauty to either yourself, or the buyer.
If someone wants to but a coin on above of a 100w light bulb for hours or someone wants to dip the haze or color off so what, They are both changing the appearance of that coin bottom line.
Why is it that you think age acceloration is differant then the removal of what has done.
I'm not talking about blow torches or Whizzing here, I talking about sublte changes that most do in one form or another to a coin, that when done properly they will slab. IMHO I look at them the same.
Once again Russ sorry for putting you on the spot, this is just something I guess we will disagree on.
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<< <i>If you dip copper, how do you get the proper look back?
Simple - don't dip copper. Conserve it, but don't dip it in the typical acid solutions that work on nickel and silver. There are different methods.
The Lincoln cent store:
http://www.lincolncent.com
My numismatic art work:
http://www.cdaughtrey.com
USAF veteran, 1986-1996 :: support our troops - the American way.