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Best Way to Package Cards for Submission?

Getting ready to send my first submission to PSA. Was wondering what the consensus is for safe packaging. Noticed on the submission form that they don't want toploaders only the cardsavers which I despise with a passion. Any advice?

Comments

  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    I generally try to follow their guidelines to the letter. Which means Card Saver I's along with a sticker on the back of each one with the invoice number and the line number from the invoice. I send in 100 cards at a time and will usually use a cardboard box that the grader can leave sitting on his desk with all of the cards lined standing up. And I put this box inside of another box for shipping.

    Since I assume that the grader working on my cards always gets yelled at for overgrading IMMEDIATELY before he starts my batch, I figure that anything that I can to to keep from pi$$ing him of would be a good thing!
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • BuccaneerBuccaneer Posts: 1,794 ✭✭
    FB: What exactly is a Card Saver I and what kind of box are talking about that can hold them? Thanks.
  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    Buc,

    A Card Saver I is a thin, plastic holder a little bit bigger than a PSA holder. You can usually get them either on eBay from COLOSUPPLIES or a few others. A couple people on the board buy large enough quantities that they can sell them cheaper. They usually run between $5 and $7 per hundred.

    Card Saver I's are bigger and slightly more expensive than Cards Saver 2's. But, the theory is that PSA has a better chance of getting your cards out without damaging them in the Saver I's than either Cards Saver 2's or Top Loaders. So, thats what they request on their invoice.

    Generally, the larger quantity that you buy - the cheaper the become because the shipping can be expensive (they're heavy). So, do some checking before you buy and ALWAYS factor in the shipping and handling costs.
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • I usually put my card in a flimsy plastic top holder sleeve before even sticking it in a Card Saver I. I figure damage can be done by placing it in a Card Saver I. These flimsy plastic sleeves come 100 per pack and can be purchased at a card shop for about $.50 to $.75 per hundred.

    I also use these flimsy top holder plastic sleeves to put away cards that I want to have graded in the future. I can place them in regular card boxes and know that they won't be damaged as I rummage for a card.

    Hope that helps.

    Dale
    1st Finest Set - 1981 Baseball Fleer Basic - Retired
    1st Finest Set - 1981 Baseball Fleer Master - Retired
    1st Finest Set - 1955 Baseball Golden Stamps - Cleveland Indians - Retired
    1st Finest Set - Mel Harder Baseball Master - Active
    Mel Harder Showcase Set - Active
    #15 on Current Set Registry - 1972 Topps Baseball - Retired
    #23 on All Time Set Registry - 1972 Topps Baseball - Retired
  • shouldabeena10shouldabeena10 Posts: 1,357 ✭✭✭
    Buc:

    Card Saver's are also known as Semi-rigids. I think Cardboard Gold usually has pretty good prices for them:

    Cardboardgold

    I also agree with FB; that I don't want to piss off the waiter... before the food comes. I try to follow their guidelines and make everything as easy as possible, while still protecting my cards.

    Any cardboard box that will hold your cards will do, just make sure you use plenty of bubble wrap and package them with the thought that the mailman is going to shake, drop, kick, and crush your box before it gets to PSA. (by the way.... the box that PSA sends your graded cards to you in, is a good box to use for submitting more cards).
    "Vintage Football Cards" A private Facebook Group of 4000 members, for vintage football card trading, sales & auctions. https://facebook.com/groups/vintagefootball/
  • mcastaldimcastaldi Posts: 1,235 ✭✭✭
    About Card Saver 1s vs CS 2s. . .
    While FB correctly mentioned that with a CS1 there is less chance of a card being damaged when removed compared to a CS2, there's another very important consideration. CS1s are a bit bigger and the card fits into it more easily - so you are less likely to damage the card when putting it into a CS1 vs. a CS2. Not much PSA can do if you mangle the card before even putting it into the box.

    The way I do it is. . .
    Raw card into a penny sleeve -> Then into a CS1 -> I take ten cards (in CS1s) and put them into a graded card sleeve/bag. I've found this to me much better at keeping the cards from sliding around and eliminates the need for a rubber band.

    Then I pack those 10-packs securely into a box - which is in turn put into another box much in the way FB mentioned.

    Mike
    So full of action, my name should be a verb.
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