Looking for cost/benefit realities in breaking graded packs.
jimrupprecht
Posts: 75
Though I have cracked a fair number of boxes from the 50s, 60s and 70s, I have yet to open a graded pack. Here are my questions...
First a theoritical question... At what point is a pack too expensive to crack, assuming you are looking for high grade (PSA 8 or better) cards? Before you answer, let me take away (at least partially) one variable and limit my question to packs from 1950 to 1979.
Second, a more concrete question... Here are three identical packs: A GAI 6.5, GAI 7.5, and GAI 8.5. If we assume the packs contain five commons, and also assume that the SMR is accurate valuing PSA 8 commons at $22 and PSA 9 commons at $55, what are these packs worth if one would want to crack them and have the individual cards graded by PSA? For those of you who have cracked GAI packs, have you seen any correlation between pack grades and potential card grades?
TIA
First a theoritical question... At what point is a pack too expensive to crack, assuming you are looking for high grade (PSA 8 or better) cards? Before you answer, let me take away (at least partially) one variable and limit my question to packs from 1950 to 1979.
Second, a more concrete question... Here are three identical packs: A GAI 6.5, GAI 7.5, and GAI 8.5. If we assume the packs contain five commons, and also assume that the SMR is accurate valuing PSA 8 commons at $22 and PSA 9 commons at $55, what are these packs worth if one would want to crack them and have the individual cards graded by PSA? For those of you who have cracked GAI packs, have you seen any correlation between pack grades and potential card grades?
TIA
0
Comments
My understanding is that any pack graded by GAI is authentic.
The difference in grade pertains to centering and wrinkles on the wrapper ?
The prices I've been seeing unopened packs from the 1960's going for, seem to assume all 9's, including at least one star.
So, most would call it gambling, at best.
If you want to crack one, you have to ask yourself ... do you feel lucky ? ... well DO you PUNK ?
"How about a little fire Scarecrow ?"
Robert
Any high grade OPC Jim Palmer
High grade Redskins (pre 1980)
Billy
I need 1955 Topps Baseball in PSA 7-nq #3,16,20,92,183,196,201.
GAI grades are nice but only assesses the seal of the pack--cards can be as OC 90/10 and pack grade could still be MINT. Examine all corners as much as possible by holding pack sideways and rotating (as you would any individual card). This will ensure you the best chance at having your corners be MINT. Centering really is a gamble. I have seen 95/5 and 50/50 in the same pack. I have also opened miscuts and PD's. ENJOY and GOOD LUCK!
Used to working on HOF SS Baseballs--Now just '67 Sox Stickers and anything Boston related.
<< <i>A friend of mine is contemplating opening a 49 Bowman, 1955,1956, and 1957 packs. These are nickle packs with 5 cards each. Do any of you think that these packs would offer a positive cost versus benefit? Commons from these years in high grade are very pricey and if one was lucky enough to pull a star that would be gravy. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Billy
I need 1955 Topps Baseball in PSA 7-nq #3,16,20,92,183,196,201. >>
I'd say don't open them! Nickle packs from the 1950s are so rare now that they will continue to skyrocket in value. In fact, some dispute whether a legitimate 1953 nickle pack still exists. Due to the rarity of those packs, they will someday sell for far more than what the individual cards inside could ever bring. If you look at the cello packs from that era, the cards are quite often OC. If your friend would consider selling any of those packs, let me know. I'd be willing to make it worth his while.