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Selling prices vs SMR

I read in someones post that generally you can expect about 70 to 100% of SMR for cards you sell or auction. What years or decades would this selling range be representative? 60's and 70's? How about the 50's? My point is that the cards of the 50's seem to sell at auction generally for more that SMR, at least quite a few of the ones I am interested in.
Registry sets:
1954 Topps BB
1955 Bowman BB
1956 Topps Super BB
1957 Topps BB
1969 Topps BB
1984 Donruss BB
1961 Fleer W.S. Pennants
1960-62 Fleer Team Logo Decals Run

Comments

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    MantlefanMantlefan Posts: 1,079 ✭✭
    I think the answer varies from year to year, set to set and even card to card. High grade PSA 8's or 9's can outsell SMR...low-pop cards often sell for multiples of SMR. Some sets are "hot"...others "cold".
    Frank

    Always looking for 1957 Topps BB in PSA 9!
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    qualitycardsqualitycards Posts: 2,811 ✭✭✭
    SF - Sometimes you do so/so, sometimes real well and sometimes you hit the Jackpot!
    Check this 1961 common thats not that low a pop (No I wasn't the seller) ...jay
    Sweet eBay bidding - on a '61 Common!
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    This subject has been beaten to death.
    I realize you don't know this Spahfan.

    We gotta quit raggin on the SMR. (hasn't happened yet on this thread, but it's bound to)

    I know one thing, I would sure hate the job of trying to keep that thing up to date.
    Yo-yos think every time a card sells for more than SMR, they need to adjust things; not true.
    They have to look for trends.
    Like after a while, they notice T205 PSA 6 or better commons are selling consistantly for more than they had them listed, so they raise the price a little.
    They don't say, "Oh gee, a 1965 low pop common just sold for 10 times SMR, we better get on it!"
    It's a "guide" and like all price guides there will be big discrepencies in regards to prices realized.
    They just try to keep up the best they can. And frankly I think they do all right.
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    MantlefanMantlefan Posts: 1,079 ✭✭
    Jay,

    That's a tough card and Primeeagle simply outbids everybody!
    Frank

    Always looking for 1957 Topps BB in PSA 9!
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    gemintgemint Posts: 6,069 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think it went for so much because it is a Pitt Pirate! image
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    SpahnfanSpahnfan Posts: 412 ✭✭
    I didn't know the subject was beaten to death, although I thought it might have been discussed many times before. I am new to the board, so bear with me. I apprectiate your polite answers. If I ask questions that have been discussed ad-nauseum, just let me know. I will understand. You all are very knowledgeable and I am trying to pick your brains for as much information as I can get.

    I do have a couple more questions though. If they have been thoroughly discussed before, just give me a link and I will read the previous discussions.

    What do you do with your high grade off-center cards? I mean the ones that should (with decent centering) be at least a 7, many possible 8's and a few that might even make 9. Centering I am talking about might be 80/20, 85/15, 90/10, etc. They are tough to sell raw and I am not sure you would get your money back if they are graded.

    Next question: When you have free gradings, is there any reason to send in anything but your higher priced and higher grade cards?
    Registry sets:
    1954 Topps BB
    1955 Bowman BB
    1956 Topps Super BB
    1957 Topps BB
    1969 Topps BB
    1984 Donruss BB
    1961 Fleer W.S. Pennants
    1960-62 Fleer Team Logo Decals Run
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    acowaacowa Posts: 945 ✭✭
    Spahnfan,

    Your topic has not been beaten to death. The topic of the accuracy of SMR has been beaten to death. There are many factors that people don't take into consideration when they pull out the SMR to decide what to pay for the card.

    1) Population - The 1961 Joe Gibbon card is scarce. (especially a really nicely centered one)
    2) Quality - The quality within a specific grade can be dramatically different. A PSA 8, for instance can have centering that is 50/50, 60/40, all the way down to 65/35. Check the guidelines that PSA publishes and you'll see what I mean.
    3) Relative demand - The more "money is no object" collectors out there working on a set...the better the odds of cards going for more than SMR.
    4) Quantity - Take a look through the latest Superior auction. If you are willing to shell out several thousand dollars at a time (which most set builders will have to do to finish a set anyways) you can currently buy at a fraction of SMR. Some of the cards in the lot may even be these afforementioned gems in the rough.

    Anyways, don't ever be shy about asking a question. Most times, when someone claims that a topic has been beaten to death, they will supply a link to the thread. You can also do a search on a topic to check for yourself.

    Good luck collecting. This 1954 Larry Doby PSA 7 went for almost double SMR last night. Wonder why?


    Regards,


    Alan

    image
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    Accuracy of prices in smr has been beaten to death, but what to pay for cards in accordance to smr has not?

    What's the difference?
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    BasiloneBasilone Posts: 2,492 ✭✭

    That Doby looks like a PSA 6 to me.....(joking).

    John
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    acowaacowa Posts: 945 ✭✭
    Interchanges,

    Your fro is obviously cutting off blood circulation to your brain. Why don't you simply link the topics instead of telling newbies that it's beaten to death?

    I agree that there's been numerous topics relating to why SMR sucks.

    There have not been numerous topics as to why some cards go way over and some go at a mere fraction. There have NOT been numerous topics that educate a buyer that not all cards within a certain grade are equal and that not all commons are common. I have people ask me all the time why prices for commons that I am selling vary in price...and why my prices are above or below SMR. It's a FAIR question.

    When a new member asks a question, starting your response with "This subject has been beaten to death." is pretty inappropriate. Why not just link the topics and help the guy? If you can't help the guy, then just STFU and move on to something you care about.


    Regards,


    Alan

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    1420sports1420sports Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭
    Welcome Spahnfan. I was new once, and I have learned a great deal on these boards.

    Even if a topic has been beaten to death, it is still fine by me to bring up certain topics - this being one of them. If there are topics that boor you, simply move on. If it boors many people, it will sink to the bottom and fast.

    I consider the SMR as a guide only, as I know what certain players and issues go for on the market. However, the guide needs to be updated.

    Alan, that is a good looking PSA 7.
    collecting various PSA and SGC cards
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    Spahnfan,
    There are quite a few factors in pricing a card, with a high degree of volatility attached to each. This is especially true of commons. I've collected 1971 Topps in PSA 8 (mainly via ebay) for the last couple of years and in that timeframe, prices have been all over the place. Factors that have played into closing prices include:

    -closing time of the auction (I picked up a pop 7 card of Laboy for 14.95 because it ended on a Tues. at 8:00 a.m.)
    -new registry collectors jumping in aggressively
    -number of active set collectors
    -rarely available players (low pop or just not offered for auction frequently)
    -sniping
    -and just about anything else you can think of

    The best approach to take is to use the SMR as a guide, using your own research to refine it. I know for common 71's that the population guide will give a much better indication of the price than SMR could ever hope to do. I also know Blyleven, Munson, Rose and Jackson will sell for over SMR and Clemente, Carlton, & Palmer will usually sell for less.

    Just like anything else, there's no substitute for rolling up your sleeves and researching all that's available. Welcome to the board!

    Steve





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    My conclusion to a an unscientific study of eBay results revealed that -- with low-pop exceptions of course -- generally the prices that sellers are getting for PSA 8 commons from about 1970 to the present are not appreciably higher than their grading cost at best, and in many cases are drawing less than that, if they draw a bid at all. The 1960's improve yet are weak in some years, most notably 1968. Most PSA 8 commons from 1963 and before do well.

    Personally, I don't get a card graded (that I intend to sell) unless it's (1) a card with an anticipated grade that SMR's for at least $50, or (2) a very, very low-pop common from the 1960's and earlier.

    I think we've definitely reached a saturation point for 1970's and later, and in the 1960's to some extent as well. I don't see a recovery (demand overwhelming supply) any time in the foreseeable future ..... many, many years.

    Skycap
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    Acowa, sheez I wasn't that hard on him.

    Sorry Spahnfan, didn't think I was being harsh on you.
    You asked a legitamite question.
    In my opinion, it all depends on the condition you are looking for.
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    acowaacowa Posts: 945 ✭✭
    Interchanges,

    You're a bigger man than most on the boards (even without the fro).

    Regards,


    Alan
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    SpahnfanSpahnfan Posts: 412 ✭✭
    ok, ok, ok. Guys, it's alright. No offense taken. I have been around enough. Everything is cool.

    Anyway, I did ask a couple of other questions for which I wouldn't mind some comments.

    Registry sets:
    1954 Topps BB
    1955 Bowman BB
    1956 Topps Super BB
    1957 Topps BB
    1969 Topps BB
    1984 Donruss BB
    1961 Fleer W.S. Pennants
    1960-62 Fleer Team Logo Decals Run
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    acowaacowa Posts: 945 ✭✭
    <What do you do with your high grade off-center cards?>

    I wouldn't submit them. If you do, you can request NO QUALIFIERS on your form. This lowers your numerical grade...but I have found that buyers prefer no qualifiers.

    <When you have free gradings, is there any reason to send in anything but your higher priced and higher grade cards?>

    PSA runs specials for commons every now and then...so it's probably best financially to send the stars/superstars with your free grades. I rarely submit superstars, however, so I usually just submit the nicest commons.


    Regards,



    Alan


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