Submitting in PVC or Mylar Flips
IronmanDuke
Posts: 101 ✭✭
There have been several threads about whether the type of submission (Regular, Economy, etc) affects the final grade given.
What about PVC versus Mylar flip?
I want to send in about 20 coins for grading. The local coin dealer only has PVC. Should I go with the PVC or spend the time and money to mail order some mylar flips?
Thanks for the advice
What about PVC versus Mylar flip?
I want to send in about 20 coins for grading. The local coin dealer only has PVC. Should I go with the PVC or spend the time and money to mail order some mylar flips?
Thanks for the advice
0
Comments
Jeremy
PS- If you need, I'll pick some up at the dealer in town during a lunch break and mail them to you... all at cost.
PVC damage can happen that fast? Wow...
I was just thinking that the grader might say "if he won't spend the effort to store the coins correctly, this CAN'T be a MS 66"
Thanks,
Steve
There are people who have said that their coins developed haze between shipping and grading with the wrong flips... you never know about the PVC... heck, say your package gets damp while in transit, and is stored wet for 50 days... that wouldn't help the PVC, I don't think.
Jeremy
PS- Even if PVC would not develop, why take the risk?
made some haze develope on all those.
The hard ones that always crack in the middle leaving you with a single holder with an opening on one side,
seemed to not have caused any hazing or little toning on the coins within.These are stored in a cardboard
box so I expect some to tone alittle, but that weird haze freaked me out so I
just made them all AU58s with the teeshirt tail.
If I didnt I may have should have left one to study for reference.
I think the hard ones could be PVC too but just dont hold the moisture in like the soft flips.
Thats the problem I think .Moisture. Or moisture retentive holders.
I think of Mylar as that ultra-thin sheet in the cardboard staple type 2x2s.
I,m kinda ignorant to the 2x2s and what they,re all made of.
someone learn me bout it.
I would buy from a source that sells guaranteed, 100% mylar (polyethylene terephthalate). Such a source could be Kelgory, or Stanton. There are many sources, but it's important to buy the quality, and not just hope the flips or 2X2s don't contain PVC. Yes, PVC contamination can occur quickly.
Please don't risk your coins by using PVC.
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<< <i>I would recommend to NEVER use PVC ever. I would buy from a source that sells guaranteed, 100% mylar (polyethylene terephthalate). Such a source could be Kelgory, or Stanton. There are many sources, but it's important to buy the quality, and not just hope the flips or 2X2s don't contain PVC. Yes, PVC contamination can occur quickly. Please don't risk your coins by using PVC. >>
Agree wholeheartedly, it's not worth the risk of a coin becoming ruined unnecessarily.
I did check Kelgory and Stantons site, and neither had NON-PVC 20 pocket pages.
Does anyone have a known source for NON-PVC pages?
You could perhaps theoretically scratch a coin with one when inserting it, but once it's inside it's fine. As mentioned, they will sometimes crack at the seam, particularly with heavy coins, so pack them securely. I lay out 3-4 coins per row on a roll of bubble wrap, fold it over, put another row, etc... for about 5-6 rows. Then the bubble wrapped rolls of coins into an Express mail Tyvek envelope, then into an Express mail box with packing peanuts.
I Express-mail them overnight uninsured (do this at your own risk) to minimize transit time in any temperature extremes.
The extra cost for a mylar flip is trivial compared to the grading cost and the cost of a coin that's worth submitting.
<< <i>Does anyone have a known source for NON-PVC pages? >>
Try a photography supply house for archival quality pages for 2X2 slide storage. For examplePrint File Archival Storage Go to the page and do a search for Slide pages and I think you'll find what you want. the pages are made from Polypropylene not PVC.
I think thats right. Thats why I keep only some of my SQs in them, the non-cherry ones mainly.
And thats the reason why I use the cardboard /mylar for the nicest ones.
Those hard 2x2s are real slider-makers. I try to shove the coin to one far corner so it will hold
and NOT slide around hopefully.
I guess the logic is ,for me anyway, is a hard flip is better than no flip, and mylar is better than
hard 2x2s, and pro slabs are better than all of the above. Its a matter of cost of storage and whats
being stored.
Congrads on your book sell out.Al
<< <i>So is it the rubbery type are the PVCers and the hard ones are Mylar? >>
Generally, yes- the softer ones are bad news. Particularly if exposed to heat.
BUT- I have heard them suggested for submissions.
Unless it's a proof coin with very delicate surfaces and you're worried about haze, I'd say the soft ones don't present much threat. Better to have inert, non-PVC flips if possible, of course, but it's usually not gonna cause you a problem if you use non-inert ones for a very short term.
I don't think SAFLIPs will cause any "slider" problems assuming you insert the coin carefully, unless you put it in a paint shaker afterward or something. I would guess the SAFLIPs also stay off the surface of the coin better than soft flips or 2x2s because the harder plastic provides better support, allowing the rim of the coin to keep the flip from clinging to the rest of the coin.
<I thought the hard plastic one's would scratch the coin?Al>
As a rule most plastics are softer than metals and don't scratch them, but that is why they tell you to put the coin into the little poly bag BEFORE it goes into the flips. As those who use the coin albums with the plastic slides will tell you, if you do it enough your coins will show signs of plastic slide wear.