If you were given 100 grand to spend on coins...but you must build a COMPLETE set of something what
SethChandler
Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭✭
And what grades?....
Seth
Seth
Collecting since 1976.
0
Comments
same with the three cent nickel set in ms and proof 65 and above
barber proof sets dimes quarters halves in gem and higher
seated dimes half dimes and quarters halves in proof 64 and higher 1860 to 1891
proof trade dollars in 64 and above sans the 1884 and 85
circ sets of all the pre 1915 coins the highest cric i can get sans the gold
the complete the set with maybe leaving off one or two of the rare unavaiaable stoppers in each series if such an animal exists
the lsit goes on and on
sincerely michael
also type sets in copper silver and nickel pre 1915
proof buff set all gems
walker set all gems the short set!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
36 to 42 proof sets in choice to proof
Buffalos or Mercs or Walking LIberties
grades would be best as could afford
JIm
all in PR67 with deep, clear mirrors (excluding the 36 T1 satin Buffalo) and
great color!
It would be a beautiful set to enjoy, you can store it in a couple of slab boxes
(37 coins I think, working from memory), the coins can be easily sold for the
going price or better, and there would be little downside risk, imho.
Ken
I forgot the '36 T1 Satin Lincoln, so there are 38 coins in the set. It still
fits in two boxes.
PCGS Pricing for the above is $117,500, with prices for the 36 T1 & T2, 37,
41, 42 Lincolns only listed as high as PR66RD. Maybe some of these don't
come in PR67?
Regardless, I'd build the nicest set I could for $100k for all of the above reasons!
I looked at a complete set with Shylock and Irish Mike at the FUN show. They were all MS 64 red in PCGS green tag holders and most impressive, the color was almost a spot on match for the entire set!
It must have taken years to assemble!
Anyone know what coins are in a set for 1816?
Yeah Right!
Glenn
Tom
If I'm not mistaken, I believe the highest graded by PCGS is MS65RB. It's been quite a while since I looked, so that may not be correct.
As you can see, I would then have a Finest Known Mint Set, and lots of cash left over for other coins.
Ken
Everything in Mint State, with most dates in MS64, 65 or 66. (Consult the Grey Sheet closely and buy the grade just before the massively ridiculous price jump.)
Only four dates would be circulated:
1889-CC in AU55
1892-S in AU55/58
1893-S in XF45 (maybe AU50 if the right coin came along)
1895-O in AU55/58
There should even be a few bucks left for some of the better varieties, like the 1888-O Hot Lips, 1890-CC Tail Bar, and 1901 Doubled Die Reverse.
-- Dennis
Greg
<< <i>A complete set of 24 proof Barber quarters in 66Cam, 67, and 67CAM. Blended grades to come in under 100K. Proof Barber 25c; rare, historic, and beautiful. It doesn't get any better than that in numismatics!! >>
Funny that you should pick $100,000 as the arbitrary number for a series because that's about what I shoot for when I put one together. My next endeavor will be one of two undertakings.
Either an 1873 proof set in PR65 or higher (excluding gold). This would be an awesome collection! It would be like a small type set in a one year proof set.
Or, the with motto seated liberty quarters all in PR65 and PR66 with exceptional toning. That would be really cool, 27 beautifully toned classic proof coins.
The above should average $4,000----$4500 each in PCGS slabs.
I had mostly Deep Cameo and Cameo in my Proof Barber half set, but recently started adding beautiful toned barbers, to break up all the monotonous ' WHITE FLASH'.
A complete, top five registry set, of Proof Shield nickels is also possible in PR 65 Cameo, with just the 1867 with rays in PR 64, for less than $100,000
My favorite is the 12 piece gold set in MS 65, with only the Type Two dollar in MS64. You might sneak in a few MS 66s and have a set average of MS65 plus. A beautiful set of MS Gold Coins is hard to beat, for less than the $100,000 alloted here.
I was going to recommend a set of Barber halves in 66CAM. However, I see that the nice PCGS 66CAMS are more like $5,000+ now, so I didn't think it could be done for 100K. Or course, you could blend in nice 65CAMs and 66s to hit the target. However, I think the quarters are a little better deal. They seem almost as rare as the halves date for date and grade for grade, but cost less. Instead of a 66 half set, you could do a much rarer 67 quarter set. And, it seems like quarters are starting to become the rage. I am more of a half guy myself, but nothing beats the proof Barber quarters for value plus beauty.
Greg
would consist of PR66s, which should go for $4,500 or less, ($4,000)
It would be close, but right around the $100,000 mark.
I like the quarters too, but am more partial to the larger halves. The quarters,as you said, could be had in higher grades for the same price as the halves, and right now are a steal, in my opinion.
Back to the $5,000 Barber Halves at $5,000 plus: Pinnacle Rarities is a good source for Barbers and lately, they still sell on average there for a little less than $5,000, ( when available ), and as I said over 50% of the dates are post 1900 and can be had in PR66 for $4,000 to $4,500. I think, both the Barber quarters and Barber halves are going to see even more activity soon.
Glenn
I'm collecting 20th century coins in ms64. Wonderful beautiful coins can be found in that grade (and even sometimes ms63) and $100 grand will go a long long way...
I estimate 20-25 grand on Lincoln Cents, all ms64rd except for 14-d and same San Francisco twenties, which with luck can be found almost full red for a much lower price.
Then 30-35 grand for Buffalo nickels, ms64 with ms63 on a few keys.
Maybe only 15 grand for Mercury Dimes, and I would choose to do F.E. and Indian Cents (ms63 and ms63rb before 1878, more like ms64rd after). This I estimate is about 25 grand. The 5 or 10 grand left could get you all the remaining coins after 1934 in gem (except ms64 still on Half Dollars and maybe get nice 1932 quarters in ms63), or go toward a 1916 Standing Liberty Quarter to start that set!
Anyway, I started this plan last summer! I've begun with small cents and all other coins 1928 and after. (My PCGS Lincolns are registered under the title "Lincoln Cents" somewhere around 60th. I also registered some other of my pcgs coins in a type set.)
BTW, I just joined this forum. There's been a lot of interesting information in the few weeks I've known about it! Thanks!
al h.
Don
RELLA
who boasts of twenty years experience in his craft
while in fact he has had only one year of experience...
twenty times.
also in proof 67 you could do walkers/mercury's and maybe buffalo's all in the 1936 to 1942 era
Bruce Scher
Bruce Scher
With 100K to spend, you could add some 68s in the proof Buffalo/Walker/Mercury sets. It seems that some of these 36 - 42 proof pieces have started to come off their highs. Seems like they are becoming decent buys again. 68 Mercury proofs really look good, particularly the 40 and 41 if you can get them. R&I has a brilliant 41 in proof 68 for $7,500 and David Lawrence has a toned 40 for $6,500. If one could get these at a discount from list they seem like nice buys with such low pops. Myself, I would like a 36 Satin proof Buffalo in 68 if I could find one at decent price.
Greg
---------------------------------
"No Good Deed Goes Unpunished!"
"If it don't make $"
"It don't make cents""
I'd probably start with the 1 cent piece business strikes, because they're challenging, fun, and horrendously undervalued.
The cents have many dates with the total number of uncs under a dozen! it even has a few dates with the total number of uncs under half a dozen. Two dates: the two key key dates -- the 1915-S and the 1918-S Large S -- are so rare that many of the dealers in Manila will tell you they've never even SEEN one of them slabbed unc., to say nothing of choice or gem.
These coins and several other dates put the S-VDB, '14-D, and 55 Double-Die to shame in terms of pops. Yet, if you keep your eyes open for them, you can pick up one of the best known for $2,500 to $5,000.
The series is particularly difficult in RED. Maybe I should say "impossible" because the hot humid weather of the Philippines killed the color of most US-Philippine cents. Indeed, there are a handful of dates for which not a single coin has been slabbed RED by PCGS.
Jon Rosenthal ("tonelover" on these boards) is a fellow US-Philippine coin lover. He runs www.philippinecoins.com. He recently counted the number of RED cents in the 1903-1936 series. He says that the entire US-Philippine series has less than a 10th as many reds as teh S-VDB. Now that's rare!
32 coins in the no variety set. I estimate that you'd need no more than $15 to $25 thousand to complete the series in MS 64 to 65, with mostly REDs and Red-Browns. That's about $750 per coin on the average, an astonishingly low figure for such a rare (if currently overlooked) set of US coinage, rich in history, challenge, and fun.
But I don't know how long these coins are going to remain overlooked. They're beginning to gain acceptance as US coins. They're in the Red Book, and PCGS and NGC both now list the US Philippine coins with other American coins rather than with foreign coins. Sooner or later, they'll enter the mainstream. So I'm having a ton of fun now, trying to nail down this series and even with all the mistakes I've made, I'm way ahead of the game already. How can I fail to make big money when I go to sell my registry set of these coins 5 or 10 years from now?
Good luck
Just having fun!
With all due respect Justhavingfun (and acknowledging your very convincing dialogue), I like Don's idea better - a 1916 SLQ in PCGS-MS67FH and the rest of the SLQ set in "VG" (awaiting a future influx of money) for my $100k
Wondercoin
Lemme know then next time you see a 1916 Standing Lib in MS67 Full Head, cross the wire at auction for $90,000 or so, which is what it would have to cross at to have enough money left over to buy the rest of the set in good to very good. Even in good, the overdate will be a 4 figure coin. Maybe you're talking about PCI slabs, not PCGS, eh?
The US-Philippine 1 cent series, by contrast, will be extreme fun to any registry set hound, and in my humble opinion will doubtlessly be the best investment he (or she) ever made in his life.
Warm regards,
Just having fun!