spenders vs registry quality?
sinin1
Posts: 7,500 ✭
What does it take to have a coin become very valuable (common coin from last 40 years)
- does it have to be top pop? top 300?
When submitting these "moderns" - is the goal to score a 'touchdown' once every 10 coins, 5 coins, 50 coins?
If you are doing this, do the 'touchdowns' need to be turned quickly before they get pulled back to only 1st downs, or even just short yardage.
What kind of values would you expect on a MS 68 8/0
penny
nickel
dime
quarter
half
dollar
Thanks, still trying to make my hobby become an income generator
- does it have to be top pop? top 300?
When submitting these "moderns" - is the goal to score a 'touchdown' once every 10 coins, 5 coins, 50 coins?
If you are doing this, do the 'touchdowns' need to be turned quickly before they get pulled back to only 1st downs, or even just short yardage.
What kind of values would you expect on a MS 68 8/0
penny
nickel
dime
quarter
half
dollar
Thanks, still trying to make my hobby become an income generator
0
Comments
Wondercoin
Greg
Or you could think that it all makes sense...you just have to factor in all variables. Then you get something like this:
If you want to know the price of an individual coin; first research sales data if not on that coin on "similar" coins popwise (make sure they exhibit similar trading ranges in other grades if you are using other dates to compare prices). Throw out any obviously abberant prices realized...create a time-based price trendline using a simple mathematical "best fit" equation if you can collect enough relevant data to support it...otherwise just take your best guess on the current price TODAY based on the history of prices realized. Plotting price and date on a X-Y graph and then eyeballing an estimated price is almost as good as using the best fit. Then go on these boards and start a post saying "I have coin X popY/0 what is it worth?" Average the results of all responses (board member responses from agreed upon subject matter experts of the series in question should count as multiple responses of the same answer)...write this number down. Once again throw out abberant responses (and any responses from potential buyers) before calculating. Now I'll skip over the obvious use of standard deviation formulae and give a real world rule-of-thumb (no math degree needed) process to use. Look at your data set...are the data points really really close to each other? Then write down 0.90. Are they really far apart (is the largest value at a multiple of the smallest or are there values both far under and far over the historic value)? You would probably want to write down 0.15-0.25 for this. For middle of the road results just guess an amount between 0-1 (0.0 being completely random and 1.0 being all data points are equal). Don't worry; after a few of these you'll be jotting that number down like a pro! Now for the final part...take the absolute value of the extrapolated historic price less the average board response price. Multiply this number by your 0.0-1.0 value. Take the resulting value and if the historic price is higher than the board response price subtract the result from the historic price...if the board response price is higher add the resulting value from the last step to the historic value. The resulting number is the value of the coin! Oh and just one more note...Heritage and Teletrade auction values should be automatically rejected as data points when using this value calculator. Another note...Yahoo! auction values should be automatically rejected...eBay auction values for auctions ending on holidays or late at night should be automatically rejected...Board member price quotes from members with usernames beginning with the letters "R" "w" or "d" should be automatically rejected. Formula not valid in all states. Please use formula on or before 6/13/03. For a complete listing of all formula rules and details please send a self-addressed stamped envelope to: Stupid PCGS Modern Coin Value Formula, P.O. Box 7070 Young America, MN 55397-7070.
See how easy it all is?
RELLA
who boasts of twenty years experience in his craft
while in fact he has had only one year of experience...
twenty times.
That was the simplified version that I presented...please follow the mailing offer to receive a copy of the complete formula.
How's the 1872 set coming along? I have some ground to cover first but I'm going to try to give you some competition by the time they introduce the 1872 year sets to the registry. It'll probably be the only pre-1934 year with two people really gunning for the top!
RELLA
who boasts of twenty years experience in his craft
while in fact he has had only one year of experience...
twenty times.
Do you mind if I just follow you around and use the same hand motions/facial expressions you do?
Here's a warning parable for coin collectors...
Right now I'm thinking if a crack documentary team followed me around for a week and filmed me I would be horrified by the resulting tape. I'm probably prone to doing lotsa smarmy expressions like Clay on American Idol but I just have never realized it. I was never any good at that stoic expression stuff that is so popular in MN where I grew up...maybe I need to take another crack at adopting it.
RELLA
who boasts of twenty years experience in his craft
while in fact he has had only one year of experience...
twenty times.
You might not believe this, but I went grocery shopping in Young America, MN today.
After a good submission, I will post results here to see if anyone likes any enough to PM me a good offer.