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Diagnostics for an 09-S VDB/22 plain

Assuming I was going to look at raw 09-S VDBs....are there any particular diagnostics to look for to discern a fake from a real one (other than looking for an obviously tooled or glued on mint mark). If there's a good reference, you can point me that way too.

Same question for a 22 no D

Thanks. I'm down to the last two in finishing a nice circ wheatie set.

Comments

  • tjkilliantjkillian Posts: 5,578 ✭✭✭
    Here a link to a very large picture of the date/mint mark on a 09-s-VDB. The die chip in the upper loop of the "S" is required on all genuine examples.

    Very Large Picture of a 1909-S-VDB Lincoln Cent

    Tom
    Tom

  • Excellent, TJ...just the kind of thing I was looking for.
  • tjkilliantjkillian Posts: 5,578 ✭✭✭
    Who is "TJ"?

    Tom
    Tom



  • << <i>Who is "TJ"? >>



    I went for the TJ Killian...allow me to make it more personal (as well as reading my posts closer) Tom. Thank you image
  • Killian is my favorite......."Irish Red" that is! image



    << <i>

    << <i>Who is "TJ"? >>



    I went for the TJ Killian...allow me to make it more personal (as well as reading my posts closer) Tom. Thank you image >>

    The Ex-"Crown Jewel" of my collection! 1915 PF68 (NGC) Barber Half "Eliasberg".

    Once again resides with Legend, the original purchaser "raw" at live Eliasberg auction. Laura and i "love" the same lady!

    image
  • mrdqmrdq Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭
    image

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  • mrdqmrdq Posts: 1,186 ✭✭✭
    my 22 no D before it was slabbed

    From The complete Lincoln Cent Encyclopedia by Shane M Anderson

    Die pair #2 evolved in a different manner (than 1 and 3). A pair of slightly worn dies producing normal 1922 D cents clashed together damaging the reverse die. The obverse die though worn and marred by the die clash still was considered usable. Apparently the reverse die was extensively damaged perhaps even shattered and was discarded. The obverse die was removed from the press, reworked and polished and matched with a new reverse die.

    During the reworking of the obverse die sufficient metal was removed from the die face to erase all traces of the D mintmark. Consequently every specimen struck from this second pair of dies is of the "No D" variety. No subjective judgment is required in determining this variety as the diagnostics for this die are easily recognized. Another desirable feature of this variety is it's superior eye appeal. Because thses coins were struck from a slightly worn obverse die and a new reverse die they exhibit fairly normal details.

    The second 2 in the date is sharper than the first
    the letters in TRUST are sharp
    the letters of WE are only slightly blurred
    the L in Liberty runs into the rim
    image
    image

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  • This baby just came in the mail today..........Ken..
    ..image..
    ..image..
    ..image
  • Hi. Why wouldn't you want to buy certified examples of these coins? There are many fakes.

    - jc


  • << <i>Hi. Why wouldn't you want to buy certified examples of these coins? There are many fakes. >>



    I agree...as a matter of fact my 14-D and 09-S are slabbed. The rest of the collection, minus the 09-S VDB and 22 plain are in a Dansco.

    I will probably go the slabbed route, but I know from time to time I may see raw versions, and I don't want to be stupid.
  • clw54clw54 Posts: 3,815 ✭✭✭
    I usually see both 1922 and SVDB at the Anaheim show.
  • Thanks all..very helpful...

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