question about grading lower quality cards

goodriddance189

i have a ton of older basketball, mainly 69-70 topps that i cant decide what to do with. i want to sell them, and i was wondering if it would be a better idea to get em graded first. most of em would be in the 5-7 range, with a few 8's if im lucky. would they bring higher prices if they were graded? i know graded sells at a premium for 8's and 9's, but i was wondering about mid grade cards

wolfbear

In my experience, with 1960's cards, any star that grades lower than a 7,
will sell for just as much, if not more, ungraded.

Also, any common that grades lower than an 8, isn't worth the grading fee.
Interested to hear other opinions ...

waittilitstartstosmell

Lower grade = Lower risk (especially for PSA since they get the $7-$10 card either way)

BOTN

On 60's cards, especially basketball, I would have to agree with Wolfbear. Save your money and time.

Greg

goodriddance189

the only thing is, im probably not a very accurate grader, and if i sell em raw i dont want to overgrade and accidentally rip someone off

Virtualizard

Wolfbear is absolutely correct on both points. I would not get them graded just to sell them.

If you're worried about overgrading, just add some high quality scans to your ebay auctions and offer additional scans at the request of bidders. I do this and have never had a problem with any raw cards I've sold other than 1 small crease I had missed on a card. I told the buyer to keep it and sent him another copy without the crease.

JEB.

aro13

I collect 61-62 Fleer and most of the 1969-70 Topps Hall of Famers in PSA 7. Very seldom do cards reach SMR prices for the 69-70 set in PSA 7. In PSA 8 they sell for more than the SMR. In 61-62 Fleer cards in PSA 7 usually sell close to SMR but cards in PSA 6 or lower are tougher sells.

I would not submit any commons from 69-70 unless you were almost positive you were going to get an 8. In 61-62 Fleer I would submit the commons if you felt you were going to get a 7.

norty

I don't sell basketball so I can't speak to that market. I will say, however, with respect to baseball that in my experience (and others obviously have a different one per the comments above) if a star card is in a holder of any grade it will sell faster and for just about as much as the same card raw. Every once in a while you'll see some serious bidding even on a card in a lower grade holder. I see a LOT of bidders and non-auction buyers who are VERY reluctant to bid or buy any raw star card for fear of trims etc. They'll bid or buy the same card so long as it is in a holder.

I use to have many display cases full of stars from the 50's through the early 70's that were EX to NM/MT at shows all over the country and sales slowed perceptibly on them in the past few years. I now grade EVERY star over $125, regardless of grade, and don't bring raw stars to shows. Even my long time customers who professed to hating grading buy graded stars.

As a consequence of the above, I think you'll sell more of your star and semi star cards if they are graded. I realize there is an expense involved. But if having revenue is your goal, having cards not sell is an expense too.

If most of the cards you have are commons, I think they sell just as well if not better raw at auction as graded, especially if they are lower grade.

acowa

I agree with Joe's assessment. The people who are buying stars want "insurance" that the card isn't altered. EX/MT-NM commons are less likely to have been doctored.

I wouldn't worry about grading disagreements. Even if the card is graded...some people will claim it's overgraded, undergraded, a slider, whatever.

Regards,


Alan

goodriddance189

thanks for the help everyone, most of the cards i have are HOF rookies and other stars, i wouldnt bother with commons unless i could pull an 8

valion87

goodriddance189 - I have the same exact set and condition. Thanks for asking the question. I was going to submit a few and tossed around the same concerns. I will keep the entire set raw at this time.