Update on how picture taking is going with new copystand!--monster pic attached!
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Here is a picture of a coin, I have been having a hard time trying to get accurately photoed. I think this is the best pic yet.
1967 50c PCGS MS66
Here is some updated info, or really just realizations that I am starting to uncover. I guess I was more or less just trying to come with a sort of assembly line type of photoing and am coming to the realization that for the most part, at least with toned stuff that is really just unrealistic. Each coin, almost has to be shot a different way, either with different light angle, coin angle, amount of light etc. I think that it is just because each coin, especially toned ones, are like snowflakes, they are just totally and completely different. The way the toning sits, what kind of toning, and position of the toning are I believe key factors to this. For example, I have some neat looking toned proof nickels from the 60s and I just can't get the look right, the color just doesn't show up completely, where as I have some toned proof Kennedys that Lori is looking at and I can get the colors almost exact. It just boggles my mind.
I just have found that you have to take several pictures at different angles and such and just go from there. For example, the photo above I had to use a more direct lighting source, which provided the lighting for the coin, but kinda washed out the rest of the slab. But I will say that the copystand helps facilitate this. I was able to get some great photos of some standard ms stuff (Lincolns) in a sort of assembly line type fashion. It was just a matter of adjusting the lighting but allowing the camera lens line of sight through the lighting fixtures...I kind of stumbled onto allowing this.
Anyway, I will keep truckin' and share any new info I can
morris <><
1967 50c PCGS MS66
Here is some updated info, or really just realizations that I am starting to uncover. I guess I was more or less just trying to come with a sort of assembly line type of photoing and am coming to the realization that for the most part, at least with toned stuff that is really just unrealistic. Each coin, almost has to be shot a different way, either with different light angle, coin angle, amount of light etc. I think that it is just because each coin, especially toned ones, are like snowflakes, they are just totally and completely different. The way the toning sits, what kind of toning, and position of the toning are I believe key factors to this. For example, I have some neat looking toned proof nickels from the 60s and I just can't get the look right, the color just doesn't show up completely, where as I have some toned proof Kennedys that Lori is looking at and I can get the colors almost exact. It just boggles my mind.
I just have found that you have to take several pictures at different angles and such and just go from there. For example, the photo above I had to use a more direct lighting source, which provided the lighting for the coin, but kinda washed out the rest of the slab. But I will say that the copystand helps facilitate this. I was able to get some great photos of some standard ms stuff (Lincolns) in a sort of assembly line type fashion. It was just a matter of adjusting the lighting but allowing the camera lens line of sight through the lighting fixtures...I kind of stumbled onto allowing this.
Anyway, I will keep truckin' and share any new info I can
morris <><
"Repent, for the kindom of heaven is at hand."
** I would take a shack on the Rock over a castle in the sand !! **
Don't take life so seriously...nobody gets out alive.
ALL VALLEY COIN AND JEWELRY
28480 B OLD TOWN FRONT ST
TEMECULA, CA 92590
(951) 757-0334
www.allvalleycoinandjewelry.com
** I would take a shack on the Rock over a castle in the sand !! **
Don't take life so seriously...nobody gets out alive.
ALL VALLEY COIN AND JEWELRY
28480 B OLD TOWN FRONT ST
TEMECULA, CA 92590
(951) 757-0334
www.allvalleycoinandjewelry.com
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