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10x Magnifying Standards on vintage cards

I read with interest posts made by other members related to checking your cards corners with 10x magnifying lenses to insure sharp corners before sumbitting them in for grading...

My question is, how far does this go? I mean, when I visually look at a card, after all these years of collecting and selling, I'm pretty sure of the grade I'm going to receive. I've been right on in the past deciphering between a PSA 7, PSA 8, and a PSA 9 w/o using a 10x lens.

I'm asking the other members of this community, what are your thoughts related to corner sharpness on PSA 7's vs. PSA 8's vs. PSA 9's when viewed under a 10x lens. What are characteristics of each?

Also, exactly what is the best way to measure and calculate centering and the "real" standards PSA uses in establishing NQ, O/C etc.? I've noticed, as I'm sure many of you have, PSA cards in PSA 8 with nasty centering with no qualifier, as well as some with in my opinion, centering fitting into their published centering criteria, yet achieve a o/c.

Thoughts?

Comments

  • jaxxrjaxxr Posts: 1,258 ✭✭
    We all have different vision., a 10x mag. will NOT be the same for me as it might be for others.

    Check, inspect, and carefully look at a PSA 9, several is better, and see how those cards' corners appear to your unique eyesight. Then use that frame of reference to evaluate cards regarding their centering.
    This aint no party,... this aint no disco,.. this aint no fooling around.
  • MantlefanMantlefan Posts: 1,079 ✭✭
    Check out Brucemo's outstanding report on card grading:

    Brucemo on grading
    Frank

    Always looking for 1957 Topps BB in PSA 9!
  • WabittwaxWabittwax Posts: 1,984 ✭✭✭
    Get into grading 1975 Topps. You will quickly learn that a 10x Scope is a must. A 75 card will look absolutely mint to the naked eye and then you put it under the scope and realize that you would be very lucky if the card gets an 8. The best way to learn their standards is to buy a full vending case of something cheap, 1981-1984, scope the good cards, submit quantity of the nice stars and rookies and scope them when they come back also. Experience is the best teacher. Every card is different.
  • nortynorty Posts: 201
    Jerster:

    My eyes likely aren't as good as yours but I have found a loupe to be indespensible for PSA submissions. I pick up all kinds of microscopic corner wear with it. I use a 15X loupe as I really don't like to take a lot of chances with my submissions. Errors (ie lower than expected grades) cost my business money so I try to be careful to keep my overhead down. That also ensures that my books at shows have material that will grade for others willing to take a little more risk than I am. For many of the set registry collectors, it is a lot cheaper to pay $6 to 7 per raw card for grading than it is to buy the card graded if they can keep the percentages of grades they desire up on their submissions.

    Bottom line, if you are doing fine with your submissions without louping the card, then don't change.
    Joe Tauriello
    Setbuilders Sports Cards
    Ebay: set-builders & set-builders2
  • gemintgemint Posts: 6,066 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The best way to verify centering is to measure it using a caliper (what I use) or those graduated index cards designed for measuring centering (haven't used that method). Centering can be an optical illusion at times. I've seen cards that look to have awful centering for the grade only to measure and determine they are in spec. Conversely, I've seen cards that look well centered only to measure them and determine they would be too O/C to get the grade I expected.
  • I use a 10x loupe to prescreen all of my cards, and I examine all the graded cards I get with it. Although the loupe is very helpfull in spotting flaws, you need to also look at the card without a loupe to make a good determination of the grade. I just spent a little while looking at my graded 1970 Milton Bradley cards. I have 10 9's and one 10. After comparing the cards with and without the loupe, I can say the the difference between the 10 and the 9's are much more apparent when NOT looking at them with the loupe. All of the cards have the same flaw, a rough right edge. When looking at it with a loupe, you can see this rough edge on the 10 also, but when looking at the cards with out the loupe, the edge on the 10 looks a lot nicer.

    If you are doing fine grading without a loupe, you should continue that way, but you should use a loupe to help you spot flaws on the cards that you may miss by just looking at them with a naked eye.
  • jersterjerster Posts: 828 ✭✭✭
    Frank - thanks the link for brucemo, it was great...

    Don't get me wrong, I do not profess to have "freak of nature" eyesight. My success my be attributed to staying away from sets that are notorious for providing condition probs, like '71s or 75's BB.

    My submissions to date have pretty much matched my exectations, yes, but I have yet to feel the wraith of "Darth Grader." I do not look forward to that day when we meet...

  • Nascar360Nascar360 Posts: 1,850 ✭✭✭
    Does anyone know what PSA uses to view the cards? Like make, model number and magnification power? I would like to use the same thing they use.
  • I use a 4x magnifying glass and it works pretty well. I think that it shows all the wear you need to see to determine whether or not a card should be submitted. sure a 10x or greater gives you more detail...but the instant that corner isn't mint with 4x, it isn't mint with anything.

    Ted Williams, Willie Mays, Tom Seaver, Mike Schmidt, George Brett, Bob Gibson, Lou Brock player collector
  • I have been dealing in coins for over 35 years, cards more than 25. There is not a single
    coin or card that I have not used my 5X magnifier on. You would absolutely be amazed
    at what you find when you look close and see why cards (or coins for that matter), are
    graded the way they are.

    Sure, you always get a bonus once in a while, while you also get upset over an undergraded
    card. In the long run, if you put a glass (magnifier) on every important (aren't they all?) card
    you have before sending in, you will be fairly certain on what your card will grade.

    I've returned my fair share of "GEM MINT" or "Near Mint to Mint+" or "Near Mint to Mint", even
    "NEAR MINT" cards over the past that just don't cut the mustard.

    I was fortunate enough to know some of the people at the Professional Coin Grading Service
    (PCGS) and got to go on a tour of the grading room. The room is dark, with only a good light
    at each desk, and right next to the lamps? YEP---2 magnifiers, lower power and 10X power
    to check for problems. I am only assuming they do the same at PSA for grading cards.

    Everyone can miss something, including the graders at the Professional Services, just like we
    do! You can miss the subtle little printers crease, or slight wax stain on the back.

    Just thought I would throw that out to you all. thanks for listening!

    KalineFan

    PS--I would recommend a Bausch and Lomb (Did I spell that correct?)
    as it has the best clarity for a 5 power


  • Nascar360Nascar360 Posts: 1,850 ✭✭✭
    I am still trying to figure out what to buy to inspect my cards before sending them in. Price is not my main concern here. I just wanted to use the equivalent of what PSA uses or may be even a little better. I guess this is a guarded secret for PSA. Is a 10x the highest power I need? Does any one use a microscope for 40x or is that over kill? I just want to make one purchase and take advantage of this month’s special. How much time do you spend examining each card?
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