10x Magnifying Standards on vintage cards
jerster
Posts: 828 ✭✭✭
I read with interest posts made by other members related to checking your cards corners with 10x magnifying lenses to insure sharp corners before sumbitting them in for grading...
My question is, how far does this go? I mean, when I visually look at a card, after all these years of collecting and selling, I'm pretty sure of the grade I'm going to receive. I've been right on in the past deciphering between a PSA 7, PSA 8, and a PSA 9 w/o using a 10x lens.
I'm asking the other members of this community, what are your thoughts related to corner sharpness on PSA 7's vs. PSA 8's vs. PSA 9's when viewed under a 10x lens. What are characteristics of each?
Also, exactly what is the best way to measure and calculate centering and the "real" standards PSA uses in establishing NQ, O/C etc.? I've noticed, as I'm sure many of you have, PSA cards in PSA 8 with nasty centering with no qualifier, as well as some with in my opinion, centering fitting into their published centering criteria, yet achieve a o/c.
Thoughts?
My question is, how far does this go? I mean, when I visually look at a card, after all these years of collecting and selling, I'm pretty sure of the grade I'm going to receive. I've been right on in the past deciphering between a PSA 7, PSA 8, and a PSA 9 w/o using a 10x lens.
I'm asking the other members of this community, what are your thoughts related to corner sharpness on PSA 7's vs. PSA 8's vs. PSA 9's when viewed under a 10x lens. What are characteristics of each?
Also, exactly what is the best way to measure and calculate centering and the "real" standards PSA uses in establishing NQ, O/C etc.? I've noticed, as I'm sure many of you have, PSA cards in PSA 8 with nasty centering with no qualifier, as well as some with in my opinion, centering fitting into their published centering criteria, yet achieve a o/c.
Thoughts?
0
Comments
Check, inspect, and carefully look at a PSA 9, several is better, and see how those cards' corners appear to your unique eyesight. Then use that frame of reference to evaluate cards regarding their centering.
Brucemo on grading
Always looking for 1957 Topps BB in PSA 9!
My eyes likely aren't as good as yours but I have found a loupe to be indespensible for PSA submissions. I pick up all kinds of microscopic corner wear with it. I use a 15X loupe as I really don't like to take a lot of chances with my submissions. Errors (ie lower than expected grades) cost my business money so I try to be careful to keep my overhead down. That also ensures that my books at shows have material that will grade for others willing to take a little more risk than I am. For many of the set registry collectors, it is a lot cheaper to pay $6 to 7 per raw card for grading than it is to buy the card graded if they can keep the percentages of grades they desire up on their submissions.
Bottom line, if you are doing fine with your submissions without louping the card, then don't change.
Setbuilders Sports Cards
Ebay: set-builders & set-builders2
If you are doing fine grading without a loupe, you should continue that way, but you should use a loupe to help you spot flaws on the cards that you may miss by just looking at them with a naked eye.
Don't get me wrong, I do not profess to have "freak of nature" eyesight. My success my be attributed to staying away from sets that are notorious for providing condition probs, like '71s or 75's BB.
My submissions to date have pretty much matched my exectations, yes, but I have yet to feel the wraith of "Darth Grader." I do not look forward to that day when we meet...
coin or card that I have not used my 5X magnifier on. You would absolutely be amazed
at what you find when you look close and see why cards (or coins for that matter), are
graded the way they are.
Sure, you always get a bonus once in a while, while you also get upset over an undergraded
card. In the long run, if you put a glass (magnifier) on every important (aren't they all?) card
you have before sending in, you will be fairly certain on what your card will grade.
I've returned my fair share of "GEM MINT" or "Near Mint to Mint+" or "Near Mint to Mint", even
"NEAR MINT" cards over the past that just don't cut the mustard.
I was fortunate enough to know some of the people at the Professional Coin Grading Service
(PCGS) and got to go on a tour of the grading room. The room is dark, with only a good light
at each desk, and right next to the lamps? YEP---2 magnifiers, lower power and 10X power
to check for problems. I am only assuming they do the same at PSA for grading cards.
Everyone can miss something, including the graders at the Professional Services, just like we
do! You can miss the subtle little printers crease, or slight wax stain on the back.
Just thought I would throw that out to you all. thanks for listening!
KalineFan
PS--I would recommend a Bausch and Lomb (Did I spell that correct?)
as it has the best clarity for a 5 power