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Merc Guys: Would you rather own a 1917-S MS66 or an MS65FB

marcmoishmarcmoish Posts: 6,303 ✭✭✭✭✭
in PCGS Set Registry Forum
Won a 1917-S PCGS MS-66 on Ebay, but having second thoughts on perhaps I should have waited for an FB in MS-65. Comments Welcome image

I linked the photo, comments on the grade welcome too, as I thought perhaps the details especially near the ear area seems soft .....but need more feedback on 1917 details!


Marc

Comments

  • TAP444TAP444 Posts: 824
    How about a 17-s in 66fb??
    Timimage
    LOOKING FOR 1931-s merc that is nice for the grade and fb
  • fcloudfcloud Posts: 12,133 ✭✭✭✭
    It looks like a great coin. I don't think I would have buyer's remorse over that beauty.image

    President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay

  • Aaron04Aaron04 Posts: 135
    So it was you who outbid me on that one image
  • izzy452izzy452 Posts: 929 ✭
    That sure is a nice looking merc you have there. I personally collect FB, but in the early years they do cost a lot.

    Walt image
  • PTVETTERPTVETTER Posts: 5,977 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What the heck Get both MS66 and MS65FB. I believe a MS65FB high end will every bit as nice as a MS66. PCGS seems to be all aver the baord on grading. I haven't figured out the graidng standards yet.
    Pat Vetter,Mercury Dime registry set,1938 Proof set registry,Pat & BJ Coins:724-325-7211


  • DIMEMANDIMEMAN Posts: 22,403 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I personally would rather have a higher grade than lower with bands. Especially if the bands are real expensive. I have a 18-D 63FB that cost about twice as much as a 65NB would run. I would rather have a the 65.

    JMHO, Jon
  • remumcremumc Posts: 1,273 ✭✭✭
    I would rather have the FB dime, but am starting to face the realities of trying to find and afford the early dates. I don't intend to change my plans to have a full band set someday, but I may buy some of the tougher ones in no bands to fill the holes, and worry about upgrading them to FB later.

    Regards,

    Wayne
    Regards,

    Wayne

    www.waynedriskillminiatures.com
  • python1python1 Posts: 789
    Since I am after the 65fb set, that is easy, 65fb...but if you are after the money value, its possible the 66 is a better value. IMO.
    Dennis

    My Dimes

    << If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time! >>
  • FairlanemanFairlaneman Posts: 10,424 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Man I would take either coin.

    The 17S is a coin that has been on the "Find the Damn Thing" list for some time. Problem is I get out bid on every one thats found that is liked.

    Guess I'm just too thrifty....or is that just tooo damn cheap ?

    Any way Nice Coin. image

    Ken
  • DeepCoinDeepCoin Posts: 2,781 ✭✭✭
    Given the thrust of my set, i.e. No Bands, I definitely would prefer the one you won in the auction. If you are having second thoughts, PM me and perhaps we can make a deal. I am currently looking for a nice 17-S and got caught up in some other things when that auction occurred.

    Retired United States Mint guy, now working on an Everyman Type Set.
  • marcmoishmarcmoish Posts: 6,303 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Having gone over most of the responses, I've decided to keep this example for the time being. Being this grade is for all practical purposes quite rare with only 11 graded as such, and one example over that, and just does not seem available often at all!!!! At least 7 of us here agree and helped me decide to keep it, thanks guys!! image
    Part of my hesitancy was I felt the center obverse/hair curl areas to be either worn somewhat or weakly struck (as of course the center reverse w/NB etc.) I've posted a clearer scan, anyone know if that is normal for this issue??, please post!

    Aaron, yup sometimes I will do that, why you've done that to me a couple times now.... image

    Wayne, ditto that is what I seems to be doing too.........

    Deep coin, thanks but for now I'll hold on to this little gemmy, I will contact you if I'm luckyimage enough to get a FB somehow, somewhere...ouch!

    Marc
  • jomjom Posts: 3,447 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I dunno. It depends on the coins. I don't think you can just say (or at least I can't) I want a 65FB or a 66. I really does depend on what coins you are talking about. The grade really is irrelevant...except when it comes to the price, of course.

    jom
  • CocoinutCocoinut Posts: 2,512 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'm a bit late getting into this one, but in the case of the '17-S, I'd take whichever was most eye appealing. There are a couple of early date non-FB MS66's in my set, the '28-S and the '31-S, because I wanted nice coins, but found it hard to justify paying exorbitant premiums for 65FB's. I consider the center crossband to be a very minor part of the design. How many threads have we seen where people have thought their coins were FB, but didn't receive the designation from PCGS? If it's that difficult to tell the difference, is it really worth it to buy a FB coin vs. one that's "almost there"? As Marc pointed out, the hair can also sometimes be weak. This is true even for FB coins, but you don't see those coins discounted for weak hair/feather detail.

    Congrats on a nice looking coin, Marc.

    Jim
    Countdown to completion of my Mercury Set: 1 coin. My growing Lincoln Set: Finally completed!
  • quattrocoinsquattrocoins Posts: 1,881
    Ditto, first, what Jim said. image
    Just added a '28-S from Aaron to my set. image

    Again, Congrats on a nice coin, Marc. image

    Ditto what Ken said! imageimage

    Don

    Unfortunately, Full Bands and



    FULL Heads RULE!
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