The Grade you will not buy no matter what.

Coin Finder · February 8, 2003 1:03PM

I ask this question because it is interesting to me that I would never ever buy a MS 60 anything, slabbed or graded as such raw.

What grade will you never ever buy no matter what slabbed or raw???

Tbig

airplanenut · February 8, 2003 1:05PM

I'm open to all grades- it just depends on how the coin looks...

clw54 · February 8, 2003 1:07PM

MS-70.

Lakesammman · February 8, 2003 1:08PM

Proof 61......it makes me nauseated just thinking about it.......hey, wait a minute.......I bought one last year........ but knew that after NCS fixed it, it would be a NGC 62

TomB · February 8, 2003 1:08PM

MS70 and PF70 are the only grades I think I would avoid.

toyonakataro · February 8, 2003 1:23PM

I agree with airplanenut-it depends on eye appeal and not the grade.
But as for seated half dimes whitch I mainly collect, I stick with MS61 or above and won't buy MS60 or below no matter how attractive the coin is

wingedliberty · February 8, 2003 1:24PM

It really depends

1793 cent. FR.1 yes
1999 SBA MS70 yes

It really depends on the coin.

Brian.

Draco · February 8, 2003 1:34PM

MS/PF 70 and anything below 55 minted after 1810. . .but I try to get at least 60 in anything.

Edited for Placid to include. . .I wouldn't buy a pre-holdered 70. If I get lucky enough with a submission, thats a different story but since I don't submit moderns, I'll never know if any of that stuff would grade 70

Placid · February 8, 2003 1:38PM

If you buy a coin from the mint and send it to pcgs and it comes back ms,pr-70 then you have to send it back

coppercoins · February 8, 2003 1:44PM

I buy only EF through MS66, and PR65 through PR67.

michael · February 8, 2003 2:10PM

ms/proof 70

Tootawl · February 8, 2003 2:13PM

I'll have to add my vote to MS/PR70. The one extra grade point is not worth the money.

gmarguli · February 8, 2003 2:16PM

MS70/PR70 also. No way I spend the extra insane money for such a useless grade point.

For my personal collection I have been avoiding MS68. I just can't see spending 4X as much for the coin for such a small difference in grade.

I usually also avoid MS60-62 since the coins usually look like crap.

TomB · February 8, 2003 2:20PM

I'm glad you wrote "usually", Greg. Here's an 1835 Capped Bust dime in MS62 and it looks pretty cool.

michael · February 8, 2003 2:23PM

wow thast capped bust dime is wild!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wild

sincerely michael

EVillageProwler · February 8, 2003 2:24PM

MS/PF70 is what I would never buy. To those who won't ever buy an MS60, I can understand why you'd say that. But, the only UNC 1973-CC Seated Dollar graded by PCGS is MS60. I have seen the coin in person, and it is friggin' nice. It belonged to Nate Sonnheim (Bowers, 9/98?), and I think it also has a more famous pedigree.

I have also seen an 1856 dollar, fairly well struck, graded MS60 by NGC. It looked very nice... I couldn't afford it then, so I passed.

EVP

Agflyer · February 8, 2003 2:32PM

An XF45 Morgan. Yuck! Way too much distracting marks for my taste.

ARCO · February 8, 2003 2:35PM

I really do not like any coin, in any series below VG8. VG10-Fine is about as low as I like to go. Worn down coins, key dates or otherwise, just look too worn and beat and not enough detail remains to enjoy the coin.

Only humane thing to do is with a tear in your eye take the coin and give it a mercy death with a ball peen hammer and a blowtorch.

Tyler

K6AZ · February 8, 2003 2:37PM

Some of us poor souls are forced to buy XF Morgans. Tried pricing a 93-S in AU lately?

Agflyer · February 8, 2003 2:42PM

I think I'd prefer a fine with honest wear. I had an 1895-O in XF45 and it turned my stomach to look at it. Fortunately I was able to trade it for a couple of other Morgans including a PCGS green label 1892 in MS62 that upgraded to MS63! I ended up with a prettier coin and a good story!

northcoin · February 8, 2003 2:48PM

A good question. Just started looking at early date Walkers and decided anything below an XF just looks too worn. On the other hand if someone had a half disme in good I'd take it in a heart beat if I could afford it and it was reasonably priced for the grade. Same sentiment about the first year of the flying eagle cent, and other "rarities." Probably the lowest graded collectible I currently hold is a fine 1916 Standing Liberty.

Twowood · February 8, 2003 8:20PM

Depends upon the coin, price and how urgently I need it. I'm trying to limit my registry set to MS60 to 67. I was happy to get a good 1921 MS60 slab. Twowood

goose3 · February 8, 2003 8:28PM

easy....

ANYTHING MS/PF70!

Fairlaneman · February 8, 2003 8:32PM

Really depends on the coin. Mercs I never go below MS63, so far, this could be adjusted with the last three that are needed to complete the set. Seated coins look good clear down to XF and Lincolns look decent down to VF. Probably in all reality anything under VF would be the answer. Subject to change though.

Ken

UncleJoe · February 8, 2003 8:34PM

I do not, nay, I WILL NOT buy any coin AU or MS or PR anything.

(Unless it's selling for an EF price)

Joe.

cladking · February 8, 2003 8:40PM

I like anything from "perfect" to cull if it fits in my collection. I do try avoid
poorly struck coins with the slightest trace of wear. These are OK in unc
or AU but not as sliders.

barberlover · February 8, 2003 9:48PM

for me, nothing below fine, I want all details plainley visible even on a circ. coin. Thanks for the pic. of the bust dime, i love seeing the pics, one of my favorite reasons for coming to this site.

1956Quarter · February 8, 2003 10:04PM

Depends on the coin and its current value. For example the Washington 25C. I would not accept any grade lower than MS-63 except for the key 32D due to cost limits to me. Barber coins I don't like them unless they are at least EF or better. With SLQ's its AU or better of the coin is just not appealing to me. All my Franklins must be MS-65 or better.

DHeath · February 8, 2003 10:11PM

One should refrain from using absolutes, but the grade range I prefer is F-MS68, and PR50-PR69. If I buy a 70, it'll be raw.

Dog97 · February 8, 2003 10:33PM

AU50-55. They look like XF to me and not worth the increase in price just to have a little shiny in the protected areas around the devices.

IrishMike · February 8, 2003 10:54PM

For all of you who would never buy a proof 70 espcially because of the cost of one grade point, I just purchased a 70DCAM 94 Clad washington NGC for $66. DLRC has a PCGS model for $450. Granted I might be stupid but then again I would think the NGC coin will hold its value and might even appreciate. So please all of you stay away from them. I promise to stay away from paying 10-100X for a toned one.

CarlWohlforth · February 8, 2003 10:55PM

Unlike Dog I will buy AU coins if they have luster in the protected areas. Like thebigeng I try to avoid 60 and 61. Like most of you I don't want to pay for 70s either.

Dukie101 · February 8, 2003 10:56PM

PF70 and MS70'S turn me off.Man made things are not perfect.JMHO.

KlectorKid · February 8, 2003 11:14PM

Anything above MS/PR-68, I'm not into moderns so the highest I would buy would be some kind of classic ms-68 coin. Any more than 68 and my coin would be worth more than my house.

Julian · February 8, 2003 11:15PM

I think that you are missing the hobby. Collectors will buy anything from poor to perfect, as long as it fits in with their collections. Do NOT get tied to a philosophy that will interfere with your hobby. All the great collectors of the past would consider anything, especially if it were not available better. It is just a matter of your collection's definition. On the other hand, if you define your collection as not having any 60 grade coins in it, well........

LanLord · February 8, 2003 11:58PM

I must agree with Jeremy, I'll judge the coin, not the marker on the packaging.

Lakesammman · February 9, 2003 12:14AM

All kidding aside, it depends on your goals. I collect IHC's in a very narrow range, 65-67R. FE cents, at least MS65. Varieties, I'll consider ANY coin that shows the variety feature to good advantage. Patterns, I'll buy any speciman if it's a R-8 coin but prefer P65 or better if R-5.

I agree 100% with Julian. It all depends on availability and your interests, knowledge, goals.

Bear · February 9, 2003 12:51AM

As to MS/PR 70s you are really talking about modern coins. You must select top of the line examples,

such as my Proof Kennedy Half Dollar Set in the Registry. (Jay Ross)

They can be rather striking in their beauty. As for more classical coins like dollars, I am interested in

of the color and the quality of the grade, is it at the top of its catagory. In the case of Morgan Dollars

I will go as low as a MS=63, but I prefer MS 66 and 67s. As for barbers and Liberty seated coins,

I am really looking for perfection and freedom from distracting marks or very dark coloration. In that

case I seek grades in the range of MS/PR 66,67. Commemoratives, I only collect those that seem

to have a beautiful and appealing design. There I limit myself to MS-67s.

ms71 · February 9, 2003 1:07AM

MS60 or MS61, and MS62 is highly unlikely. If I can't go for a sharp MS63 or better, I would much rather have a very sharp 58 (i.e., a little wear but very few other marks).

nwcs · February 9, 2003 1:16AM

I can't think of any grades I would avoid. Except for a PR-1 grade. Can't see the point in that one.

clackamas · February 9, 2003 1:29AM

MS60-62 RD lincoln. Dang thats an ugly coin.

jdimmick · February 9, 2003 1:34AM

Definitley not MS-70

Also, would most likely never buy below G-4, on anything. If there were a date so expensive that I could not swing the g-4 price, then I would pass on that particular coin.

Currently my lowest key-date is a vg-10
jim

The Grade you will not buy no matter what.

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