First submission and needed grading tips

RedRomad275

Boy have I got a thing or two to learn about grading. I just received back my first four free submissions(3 1957 topps and a 1953 topps) and got a 2,3,4, and 5 on them. Wow! was I surprised. I knew they weren't 9's or 10's but .....wow. Anyone know of a book or something on how I can become more adept at pre-grading before I submit? Thanks

spacktrack

I don't know that grading is something you can learn from a book. Get a loupe and a light and check over the cards. Check and double check for wrinkles and nicks, corner wear, print dots, etc. Like anything, practice makes perfect.

spacktrack

wolfbear

Ouch !

Agree with spactrack. It's the same way you get to Carnegie Hall.
Examine the cards under a good light source, and use magnification.

Also, examine some graded cards in the same way, so you can see what it takes to get a high grade.

acowa

Link to grading article by Bruce Moreland

The article above will be a good start. Literally everyone gets spanked every now and then...don't take it too hard.


Regards,


Alan

GATOR5

Red,

Look at it this way it was a trial and it was free...

Matt

LuxuryWines

Agreed Ptractice makes perfect and doing some home work Here is how I worked on grading:

1.) First and foremost Take out you copy of your SMR and read the PSA grading standards they will give you an idea of what to look for in grading a card. This is key you must understand what makes an 8 an 8 and a 5 a 5.

2.) Develop a system or a checklist when grading card. Mine kind of goes like this: 1) Determine a grade I would want from this card to submit it either to add to a set or to sell the card. BAsed on Purchase price rarity and condition of the set I want or if selling where I need to be to at least break even.... 2.)Check the front look at the card see if with my naked eye I can detect any wrinkles or scratches, print defects, stains... check the corners are they sharp and pointed or rounded (Beckett used to have a great picture at the start of their price guide showing various degrees of corner wear do not know if they still do...) look at the centering is it reasonably close to the centering guide line for my minimum grade.
3.)Flip the card over repeat the above process ..... If on first glance I think I have a winner I put it in the possible pile. If not I put it in the do not submit pile ..... I forget about this card for a while (for me a day or two).

4.) I repeat the process but now for the visual inspection I use a lighted 10X magnifier to look for imperfections on the card and the corners. For centering I measure the borders to see if they are within guidelines. Again I flip the card over and do all of the above

5.) If I have a winner I do one more visual eye inspection just to make sure I do not miss anything....

Hope this helps...

Fabfrank

I agree with Luxury. I basically follow the same steps, but add one other step. Once I've decided what cards to submit, I put the stack aside. I wait a week and than check them again. Upon second inspection I always seem to eliminate a few more cards that don't make the grade.

qualitycards

....Another idea is to study cards that are already encapsulated by PSA, have some from a variety of grades, then compare your raw cards to the graded ones and see where yours will fit in, PSA-5, 6, 7 or 8? ...jay

tbub

My first submission was to SCD I remember insuring the 20 cards return for a conservative $2,200 . I figure they must have had a pretty good laugh when all my MINT cards came back 4,5, and 6's. It was a hard pill to swallow. After learning about PSA my next couple of submissions were learning adventures. Its still a crap shoot but after doing the same thing your doing and asking for help ,following the suggestions you get on this board I now get a high percentage of 8's + 9's . GOOD LUCK! TOM

norty

RedRomad275:

As a dealer, every year I get a lot of people who think their cards are "really really nice" or "Mint". When you look at them, you just know the person has applied one of two test: 1) the eyeball test....he looked at them a lot and they didn't have big problems so they were really nice or 2) the antiquity test....They are close to 50 years old and therefore there aren't a lot of them and since they aren't beat to hell, they are nice.

You are asking what this has to do with your post. The above collectors have not applied technical grading standards to their cards. They have not examined them under a 10X or greater (I use 15X) loupe. It is a whole new ballgame when you apply technical standards to cards.

I concur wholeheartedly with the posts above that indicate it is a learning process. With good, concentrated lighting (I use an Ott light which is non-glare and non heat giving) and examination under a loupe or other magnifier, you will see the nicks, pings, corner wear, print imperfections etc which contribute to the card's overall grade. Don't forget to check centering and the condition of the back of the card as well. It is a time consuming process but with the dollars involved in submitting, it is necessary.

Try not to get discouraged. The suggestion above to review your cards under magnification and then view a graded card in the grade you are seeking under magnification is a good one. After a while, you will get the hang of it. It will also dramatically impact the way you view ungraded cards. If you are a NM/MT or better collector you will start to see flaws with the naked eye you hadn't noticed before because looking at so many cards under a loupe will have taught you what to look for. Imperfections that were once overlooked become visible immediately.

Remember too, there are lots of different approaches to collecting. Not everyone has to have graded cards to enjoy the hobby. If you liked your cards and their condition before you got your grades back, try not to let the experience diminish your appreciation. If, however, you now realize you want them a higher grade than what you have, be prepared to spend the time (and money) it takes to learn the science (or is it really an art) of technical grading.

mikeschmidt

One good suggestion:

Go to a show where Levi Bleam of 707 Sportscards attends. He has an incredibly selection of Mickey Mantle PSA graded cards. If you can see his table with the 1952 Topps Mantle in nearly every grade from 1 through 7 -- it should educate you tremendously -- esp. when there are multiples of a card in one grade where you can see the differences in grade. In fact -- he may even have scans of such on his website. A great educational tool.

Marc