Kelloggs Kollectors - Help!

bleacherbum

I recently picked up several of the 6 card 1970 packs and was going to submit some of the cards. Can you give me any clues on what to look for? What separates an 8 from a 9 from a 10? I noticed some have several little black dots. I'm guessing that's not a good thing, but I don't know what else to look for.

Thanks in advance!

Steve

Cyphilissb

I get this feeling that they are going to tell you that your cards are worthless and that you should sell them to who ever responds quickest as too at least recoupe some of your "lost" money

Galveston

Galveston

Of course the usual checkpoints are: centering, corners, surface wear, and as you mentioned the tiny black dots. But probably the key factor in Kelloggs cards are the surface cracks. Typically, with the 6 card packs you don't have too much trouble. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen a cracked card come out of a six card pack. I've seen a lot of them come out of the paper sleeves (major bummer) but not the 'cellos'. Any crack will take you to a PSA-6 which means don't bother. The cracks are a larger concern for the 1971 cards than the 1970 cards.
Other factors include: yellowing-this seems to depend on the grader, I haven't seen much consistentcy in this but needless to say, you want pure white borders. Hanging Chads-I've seen debate here before on the small portruding chads that exist on the edges. They connected the cards together when they were infants in the production process and existed on sheets. Once cut, some cards have larger chads than others. The smaller the chad the better, but again, there is some inconsistency here in the grading process. Also, using a magnifyer, look for scratches on the surface. If you have Carlos May, you should look for the tiny 'hook' which is as infamous as the grassy knoll in Dallas.

bleacherbum

Galveston,
Thanks for the info. I was curious how those "hanging chads" factored into the grade.

Steve