What would a 1942-D Jefferson normally be worth?

Russ

I don't know how to grade them, but let's stab at MS65. When I was at the show today, I saw one that was flat-out beautifully toned, and I'm pretty sure the toning was real. The 2x2 said $45, but the dealer went down to $38. I was very tempted to buy it with the idea of making a little money, but I'm oblivious to the nickel market.

Anybody have any ideas?

Russ, NCNE

Coulport

You might want to look at the strike as well as the color.

Discounted price looks right for a properly graded coin.

Russ

What are the things to look for strikewise in a Jefferson? I know about the steps, but are there other things?

I'm thinking that this seller dropped to $38 pretty quick, and if he still has the coin tomorrow I might be able to grab it for a little less. It really is a VERY pretty nickel.

Russ, NCNE

Coulport

I tend to use the steps to determine fullness of strike. My wife uses the hair detail in back of the jaw line. Others may have their favorite pick up point.
Full strike and attractive color would be an acceptable price at $38. If you can get it for less, so much the better.

baccaruda

i'm thinking you can get a 65 for around $20, but if the toning is exceptional all bets are off

Russ

baccaruda,

The toning is, indeed, exceptional and two sided. It's also the type of toning I've sometimes seen on PCGS slabbed ones, so I'm reasonably certain it's the real deal. If it's still there tomorrow and I buy it, I'll post pics. It's a beaut.

Russ, NCNE

baccaruda

i just did a quick scout on ebay and there's a 65 for $25 and a 65FS for $45. if the toning is that appealing i'd jump on it for $38. full steps are great if you like looking at your coins with an atomic microscope, but that toning pays dividends every time you look at it.

keets

hey russ

a 1942-D in PCGS MS66FS routinely sells for around $40-$125 according to my eBay tracking back to 6/2001 with $65 being about average. toning wasn't noted so that's the buyers call as far as premium. here's what i look for in a 66FS.

for strike, of course you'd check the steps to assure they're 5 fully struck with no bridges, from strike or a contact afterwards. you should be able to make out the side steps on either end of the building and most detail in the windows. i usually try to make sure i can at least see the railing atop the building. on the obverse, look at the ear and the hair curls in that area. alot of the time you can see that area as flat and not even need to look at the reverse to check the steps cause they won't be there. look along the jawline for nicks or planchet flaws that didn't strike up and the same thing on the cheek. that's another high spot. fields on Jeffersons aren't generally a problem and the neck doesn't get hit much either. if you can find a coin with the detailnicely struck and the areas described nick free it should grade MS66FS.

i picked over some nice 80's and 90's today at the shop and found a 1968-S that would go 66FS were it not for a post strike contact in the steps. a nice MS with prooflike fields cut from a mint set. it's now in my hold bag in my buddy's drawer!!!

al h.

SarasotaFrank

al:

thanks for the Readers Digest version, the short course in finding nice Jeffs.

Russ

baccaruda,

I just noticed your sig, so here's something for you.



It's a PCGS PR68 that I made myself.

Russ, NCNE

SarasotaFrank

apologies in advance to Russ for pirating his picture for this question.

al:

is it just my not knowing any better, or do many jeffs appear to have this flatness in teh hair detail directly to the right of the forehead above the ear? It seems on so many coins I look at, the hair has all this detail and then this almost glaring flat spot. Russ's coin is a 68, so I am assuming it is normal, but I would appreciate a little background on Tommy's bad case of bed head.

keets

hey frank

that's the deepest part of the die and it has the misfortune of being directly opposite the steps!! the metal which should go to the step area is too busy trying to flow into the ear cavity. maybe some of the other jeff guys will weigh in on this, but that's my perception.

i read somewhere that the design was poorly received mainly because of the Monticello reverse which has a long, slender device centered in the coin. my thinking is that all the metal flow has to come from the outside of the planchet to the very center of the dies and it just doesn't make it. and with nickel being so hard it's probably a die wear compromise to not increase the striking pressure to insure a better fill. all this is conjecture on my part as i subscribe to Russ' byline of not being an expert!!!

al h.