Grading Set of Mercury Dimes

fcloud

I've given some thought to putting together a mixed date/type Mercury Dime Grading Set (all PCGS holdered). My general thought is to have a set from medium to higher end circulated to no higher than MS67 (cost consideration--if I somehow found a raw and it came back that would be great, but won't put the cash out for one--I do have some MS67 coins already).

Some of the questions I would like input on are the following.

1) How low down the scale? Fine, Very Fine, Extra Fine? All the way down to AG?
2) Would it be okay on the MS to mix full bands and not full bands?
3) Does it make sense to mix up the years, or would it be better to have all one year?
4) All coins in the current holder (do coin grades really change over time or in older holders)?

Has anyone done a grading set (any series), if so what were some of the challenges?

Please share your thoughts.

Tony

Fairlaneman

I'm going to think on a reply for this. It may take a day or two. My first inclination is to put a Raw Set together for this undertaking you are starting.

Ken

grip

If I made coin collecting that complacated>>>I WOULD QUIT..Al

tjkillian

I'm doing the same for Indian Cents and Morgan Dollars. I want one from EACH grade for the dollars that would be MS-66 to PO-01 and for the Indians, MS-65RED to maybe Good. For me, Morgan dollars continue to look great at least until GOOD.

Tom

python1

Sorry, I dont see the objective here, or maybe I just dont understand the end result...I personally have a complete set of Mercs in many different grades, but a complete set no less, all are in pcgs holders except for the 26s (which I still looking for a nice one).
I must see more feedback on the question. But sounds like you have alot of buying to do, not to mention slab fees.

fcloud

Dennis,
Maybe I'm not clear. I don't mean every coin in every grade, but simply one single coin in each grade.
MS 60 MS 67 is eight coins, AU is four coins (50, 53, 55, 58), two in extra fine (40, 45), four in very fine (20, 25, 30, 35) That is only a total of 17 coins. Depending on how low, there is not much left.
The higher grade can be common dates in which are not expensive. And, just by having a set going I already 62 through 67.
Tony

python1

Sorry, I gotcha now. I have tried that, but getting every single split grade is a challage for sure, I wasnt able to get them, before I decided to put together a 65FB set. I think it is interesting for sure. Here is a pointer, dont have them slabbed, if you look long enough I feel sure you can pick them up at shows, in bargin bins, I found several that way. I may have some I will let go of. Good Luck, and we will watch the progress!

Fairlaneman

Tony:

I do not see how the grading set would work if you are going to use it for reference. So many strike variations are within the set that just having one coin in MS65 would not give you a for sure look that another date in 65 might look like it. Take a 45P in MS65 and then compare it to a 20P in MS65 and I believe you will see what I mean.

The thing that would Make a Grading Set work would be if All Parties Graded a Merc to how it was Intended to be struck in 1916. Obviously this does not happen or even come close to happening. Again take your 45P MS65 with Booming Luster and Crude Strike. Have a 16P that looks like that and I believe if you got a 64 out of the coin you would be very lucky.

Probably what you would be able to tell is the Luster between the grades. This alone would be very helpful as a reminder to yourself and make the project very worthwhile. The easiest way to have a reference is just carry a good example of a grade, slabbed, with you when you go out on "The Hunt".

As Usual JMHO and I hope this made a little sense.

Hey Dennis. Send me those coins, I'm always open to Freebies. & Giggle.

Ken

fcloud

Thanks for the input.

So, I guess it probably does not make sense, because of the variations in strike, age, luster, whatever, from the beginning of the series through the end. Interesting. I was hoping to do a set to use to really learn the grades, but it sound like there is too much variation. I can alway look at every coin I see at shows as a learning tool.

Fairlaneman

From a Luster view point it makes Alot of Sense. Luster is over half of the battle to begin with.

Again JMHO.

Ken

remumc

If it is luster you want to track, then you really only need the AU and up coins. In my case, only the MS63 and up coins, although it might be handy to have the 60, 61, and 62 for reference if you could find them. I started this early on when I first decided to collect only PCGS slabs. The problem was, the grading set was taking money from the set itself!

Now, do you have 2 sets, 1 for no bands and 1 for full bands?

Regards,

Wayne

fcloud

Wyane,

At this point I have one set that is a mixture of fb and no bands. I may not be able to put together a complete MS set, I already use a 1942/1 in VF. And, there are a couple of others that if I probably will have to go circ.

I am some what confused by the grading from PCGS, I have some coins that look hands down better than coins of higher grades. A great example is the 1918 MS62FB in my set. I am sure it would upgrade (although I have no plans to send it in). Some of my MS65 coins look way better than some of my MS66????

Tony

DeepCoin

The Mercury series is one that is very difficult to grade. The primary reason for this are the strike issues that Ken spoke of earlier. As much as some folks are concerned about "Market" grading for Morgans, the Mercury series has many similarities. You almost have to view Mercs from within their era as opposed to being able to use a single standard for the whole series.

I had thought about what you were considering when I first started collecting Mercs and then I realized that I would need at least two or three sets due to the differences from different years that could become costly enough to slow down my snails pace of collecting.

Good luck with your endeavor wherever it takes you!