Questions for the Mercury dime people

prooflike

What should I look for to differentiate an MS68FB to a MS67FB, what is that slight difference to look for?

Does NGC get it right with their MS68(FB or not) Mercury dimes, or are they general generous with their 68 Merc grades? -or-
Does PCGS get it right with their MS68(FB or not) Mercury dimes, or are they general generous with their 68 Merc grades

Thanks for answering.

fcloud

I am not an expert, but from what I see PCGS is very tough on Mercury Dimes. They look at the coin and a minor marks is considered as a percentage similar to a dollar coin. In other words, a hairline or tiny nick on a dime would equal a huge bag mark on a dollar sized coin.

Tony

wingedliberty

Take it from some one who has thousands of certified Mercs, including dozens of 68s. The main
difference that I have noticed is STRIKE!!.



Brian.

Fairlaneman

Take it from a guy that has No 68's or is planing on having Any 68's, I have no clue.

The one thing I do believe though is that they are somewhat over priced and almost always in the 1940's and still have the chance of having Many more made. Someone at sometime will get taken to the cleaners money wise. I think this is building up to the same thing that happened in the 1980's when MS65FB Mercs in the 1940's were $150 a pop or higher. I guess you could say the 1940's Mercs are like the Moderns, price wise.

Ken

prooflike

Thanks for all the info, appreciate it!

wingedliberty

As far as 68 Mercs,at $75-$125 a piece, they are a bargain.
As far as moderns, I really feal sorry for the people who paid $40 for Buffalo dollars at issue price
and sold them for $120 (Actually I am a little jealous).


Brian.

Fairlaneman

He is talking FB coins here and you will not get one for what you are saying Brian. NB coins Hmmm. The last 67 I had was a Dog.

Ken

SarasotaFrank

as a Mercury collector who loves that series and will never have the depth of knowledge of my esteemed associates, I don't have a clue either.

BUT, my set continues to improve, and I like em - a lot!

marcmoish

As a Merc collector I agree with the last 3 posts too, no clue on 68's and totally agree stay away unless you've got deep pockets and don't need the money down the road. On another note I personally am sticking with PCGS only, I happen to find less of those around, and those I do are more consistantly graded or rather graded stringently. I'd rather have a PQ Merc than one that I agonize how can this have gotten into a so ann so holder. Just MHO
Marc

wingedliberty

Why are you guys restricting yourself so much?. Maybe because I am a Merc fanatic, but I haved
bought 68 PCGS/NGC examples from Ebay for $50-$100 and FSB examples for $150-$275. All were true
68s. The difference in strike, luster, and contact marks is blantant and obvious to me. Some may
think they are not worth the extra premium, but I don't think they are overpriced at all. Enough Mercs
have been certified where the difference in quality is obvious and alot of subpar coins have been
weened out. Just my opinion.


Brian.

marcmoish

Brian, not sure about others I specifically meant way up there priced 68's!!! That does not include those you mentioned of course...thats a no brainer, at least 2am NY time

prooflike

That is exactly what I am trying to figure out, how many of the graded MS68FB's are truely 68's.

I know up in that range it is a fine line between 67 & 68 and I am very weak on Merc strike characteristics.

Does anybody have any hi quality images that can compare a 67 to a 68 and point out the differences???

wingedliberty

Prooflike:
All of my examples are in my safe deposit boxes, but I will try to answer your question.

1.About 75% of PCGS/NGC examples are true 68s and are full FSB.
2.About 60% of ANACS.
3.For the other grading services, your risking your money, the percentages are alot lower.


Here is what you should look for as far as characteristics.

1.STRIKE is critical. Look for raised rims.
2.Look at the contact marks on the fasces themselves, particularly the diagonal bars.
3.Look at the metal flow lines. I have notices that alot of times, grading services mistake metal flow
lines, for scratches. I have spoken to several graders and they admit to this.

Finally,

Get the great book by NGC's David Lange. "Complete Guide to Mercury Dimes"
available from the Brooklyn Coin Gallery for about $25. Well worth it if you are serious about the series.

Good luck.
Brian.

jom

<< <i>MS68FB's are truely 68's. >>



One person's 68 can be another's 67. Frankly, I wouldn't bother...just find a nice 67...or 66 or...65...and don't pay the premium. That way you can buy more coins for the same money.

jom

oreville

Many of the MS-67 mercs can be weaker struck around the rim such as the date and lettering and the MS-68 mercs must be fully struck...also the 67 graded mercs can show a mintor obscure bag mark or possibly two in the devices whereas the 68 graded mercs should not. Die cracks are possible in a 68 graded merc so make sure that what you are looking at is a die crack and not a bag mark. Die striations are a tougher call, indeed.

wingedliberty

Here is a great example of what a true MS68FSB should look like:1944D 10c PCGS-MS68FB - David Hall example

Note the incredible strength of the strike!!!
the rims!!!
the very clean and uniform metal flow!
and the blinding luster.
the fasces are also incredibly clean.
This is a true 68FB and tough on a 44D.


Brian.

Fairlaneman

Brian;

That is certainly a nice example of a 68FB Merc but for this guy the money would be much better spent on a 21P,21D or some other early date coin. Just a personal preference mind you. As always collectors have different tastes, right ?

Ken