How do most people feel about the price they pay for coins?
stman
Posts: 11,352 ✭✭✭✭✭
Although money is always a factor one way or the other. Do you think most people care ( or even know) if they get good quality coins,
or mainly feel if they get a coin for what some consider a "rip" they are happy even though it may have dip spots fingerprints etc?
Or... Do you feel it is worth to pay high retail for a nice eye appealing problem free coin even though it is not at auction or sold for auction prices?
or mainly feel if they get a coin for what some consider a "rip" they are happy even though it may have dip spots fingerprints etc?
Or... Do you feel it is worth to pay high retail for a nice eye appealing problem free coin even though it is not at auction or sold for auction prices?
Please... Save The Stories, Just Answer My Questions, And Tell Me How Much!!!!!
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Comments
for me a coin is not ever a "rip" if in other words you got it cheaper because it had a problem
and there is no such thing as retail or high retail or wholesale price wise
if i look at a coin and it is within my area of specialization and i think it is monster extraordinary and is a very good "value" and is a sleeper coin and may or may not be currently hot
then it is a coin with a reason to rise in value, hence to me a great! coin and then it is a good coin to buy at the price offered. from my point of view
sincerely michael
Take the time and search for the right coin and a coin that you will be proud to own.
Another addage that can fit here..."Buy in haste and repent in leisure"....
and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
PS- your new walker is excellent!
Some people look only at the price tag. The bargain hunters. Don't care much, nor think much about the "quality" of the coin. Just filling holes. Not a bad thing if that's what your into.
Others weigh different factors into the price of the coin. Strike, luster, eye appeal etc. and make offers accordingly as to how those factors weigh on the coin.
Eye appeal is the biggest factor for me. If I find the coin attractive, most times someone else will also find it attractive. Now to just put a price on that.
I'll let strike quality or luster, for example, slide a bit if I like the eye appeal of a given coin, and still pay a given premium.
LSCC#1864
Ebay Stuff
I always feel like the minority on this board (and that's OK) because I probably represent the opposite of how most board members "collect".
It is almost like a mantra "Buy the best" (usually because of the profit motive). It seems that some "collectors" find it unbelievable that someone could possibly want a worn or damaged or some other type of coin that the "collectors" "think" is not worthy of owning.
As far as someone not knowing "quality", quality to whom, and by who's standards? Not too long ago we had someone buy a "quality" coin that passed through the hands of at least two very knowledgeable collectors/dealers and when it was posted on this board a lot of members did not agree with the grade. It is now re-holdered with the "right" grade and monies refunded.
Who was right? I don't know, but apparentely neither did a lot of other people. It's this very reason that I don't do MS. As far as "quality" some board members are adament that toning and or eye appeal should increase the grade while others not. Who's right and who's wrong?
I think you'll agree I have gone on too long. Oh, BTW, just bought another 1931-S buffalo in fine for $6.50. I am extremely happy with my purchase as it completes another set of low-rent buffalo nickels.
Joe.
I few examples....
I bought that 1957 Franklin with the near DCAM obverse and brilliant reverse for the fair price of a purely brilliant coin. That was a premium coin at a non-premium price.
I found an 1818 Large Cent in MS62BN that has much red, and looks more like a 63RB.
Also, I bought a MS64FH 1930 SLQ for the low price of $275. I submitted that coin for grade review, and it went upgraded to MS65FH!
A less good example, I bought a MS68 silver Ike. I see little difference between it and some of my top end MS67s, but at least I paid low end of MS68 prices for it.
Yes, a choice coin is always a better move. I am selling a high grade Peace dollar that I just got. It is a superb coin with tons of luster, but I wanted a coin with a great strike, even if it wasn't quite as lustrous. The point being, never settle for a coin you are not happy with no matter what grade level you are collecting at. If you settle for a coin that does not meet your criteria, you will never be happy with it. mdwoods
We'll use our hands and hearts and if we must we'll use our heads.
Can't tell you how much my sofa was, can't tell you what I paid for my TV either. Why, because I bought them for the enjoyment, not the resell. Same thing with my coins. I'm not going to resell the coins I buy for a premium. Therefore I don't care. If its a coin I need and I want it, I will pay depending. Of course this doesn't mean I throw around money, I just do lament over it.
Since I'm collecting toned Peaces, I really can't either. Its not as though I can pass on certain coin with the knowledge that a pretty cheaper example is right around the corner. If I do upgrade, I'll have to sell the first coin and if I lose some % of my money so be it. At least I'm happy about getting a better coin.
Michael
MW Fattorosi Collection
Personally, I avoid any problem coins and don't mind paying a premium for a key, a coin that I need or if a coin is among the last one or two for my set.
I want to re-iterate a joke about accountants that can help with this thread ... accountants know the cost of everything but the value of nothing ... buy what you like and what makes you feel good.
I love Ike dollars and all other dollar series !!!
I also love Major Circulation Strike Type Sets, clad Washingtons ('65 to '98) and key date coins !!!!!
If ignorance is bliss, shouldn't we have more happy people ??
old-worn out cliches (some are originals from kind-of-old,if old is measured in terms of absolute years of life,yours truly) that have a lot of truth in them,in my opinion:
"Buy the book before the coin...read it and share with other collectors."
"Buy the coin because you like it,not because you think someone else will like it."
"Buy the best quality coins you can afford,but never take a second mortage on your home to do this."
"Given affordability and reasonable price,buy the truly rare or scarce coin when you see it otherwise you be kickin' yourself in the butt later."
"Before buying the coin,answer this question for yourself,"What would a knowledgeable dealer (deal only with knowledgeable dealers) pay me for this coin if i were to try to sell it tomorrow? If the answer is less than half or 50% of what you are about to pay...pass on the coin...there's another one out there..."
"If you are buried with your coin collection,mr1874 will eventually find you and kick your butt."
Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.-Albert Einstein
I needed a capped bust dime I brought a g grade because I can't see a dime very well but the lg size capped bust will need to be F or better. the draped bust quarter, half and dollars I'll settle for g and ag because of the prices.
I do buy the best I can afford as a rule.
I hate it when you see my post before I can edit the spelling.
Always looking for nice type coins
my local dealer
I know no one is going to sell coins for 50% on the dollar (despite the claims of certain outfits who push a monthly "investment" program), but one thing that keeps me from buying more coins is not knowing if I'm being asked to pay a fair price. I'm not chasing ultra-rare pieces that you have to buy whenever they come available for whatever it takes.
Of course you have to step up for nice coins, but there's a difference between stepping up and getting clobbered. At a recent show I saw a really attractive 1884 IHC in a PCGS 66 RB holder. It was at least 75% red, no carbon spots, nothing interesting in the way of toning. I checked either the Greysheet or Bluesheet (I don't remember which) at the time which indicated a price of around $500 for a 66RB Proof Indian (type). When I inquired, I was quoted $1275. If I had paid that, would I have been buried forever in that coin? I'm not a specialist in IHCs so I didn't know if the price was reasonable or not - but because it was so far above the sheet, I passed. I found out later that the last one in this grade sold by Heritage was in January and went for $575.
I don't buy with the intent of reselling, but if the "cost of ownership" is over half of the price of a coin, I am much less interested in buying them. Sometimes I wish the Greysheet would list a range of prices for a grade - at least you'd have an idea if an asking price is in the ballpark.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
Myself sometimes I think I might "step up" too much for a coin, but if I can afford it I don't mind. I am only a collector so I really don't think about selling too much. But I have sold plenty and took a loss. I guess sometimes when I buy a coin and think, what I could sell it for and would I take a loss and the answer is usually yes. I will compare it to maybe buying a couch for the living room or something else to that effect. As soon as we walk out the door with those things we are doomed as far as ever selling it. At least with coins you can always sell it for something and if it is a great coin and you know the "right" people to sell to, you can do fine.
I don't like to compare a coin I'm considering to buy to recent auction prices, as if it is something special we can throw out the recent auction prices along with the sheets.