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1971 Nuances
VoodooChile
Posts: 21
Hello all ! This is my first post after lurking here for more than 2 months and I must say that it seems like I know most of you in a way and that you guys really know your stuff! Like alot of you,I really enjoy the 71 set and would like some tips on exactly what to look for in determining a psa 8. I ask because I have seen 8's that look like 7's and 7's that look like 8's. To me there seems to be a gray area.Also to the 71 gurus out there, on the 71 Rose card there is a slight arc about a half inch long above the 14 on his batting glove that looks like a hair or even a scratch.It seems to be on every card. Have any of you noticed this before and what is it?
yet another demented 1971 Topps collector
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CU turns its lonely eyes to you
What's the you say, Mrs Robinson
Vargha bucks have left and gone away?
hey hey hey
hey hey hey
Welcome to the board.Good luck with your 71s.
Zardoz ,
Thanks for the answer to the Rose question.I was wondering the same thing about the arc.Has anyone seen a Rose without this blemish?
MS
I believe that there is enough circumstantial evidence to convict
Interesting ID, do you prefer Jimi or Stevie Ray's version? Both are very effective
Website: http://www.qualitycards.com
<< <i>I wonder what a 71 topps Hendrix would look like?? >>
VC - I don't think you'd wanna see it, wasn't that the year he died?...jay
Website: http://www.qualitycards.com
<< <i>Jay-Unfortunately it was Sep. 71.
There is still a fair amount of '71 unopened out there but I would say it is the toughest of the '70s packs. It's also the most expensive. Racks will typically sell for over $1000, cellos for $500-800 and wax for $300-500 depending on the series. I was fortunate enough to pick up a handful of '71 cellos earlier this year and they sold for around $700 each. Since the price is so high, it's a real gamble if you plan to purchase and break open 1971 unopened. With factory centering issues and very easy chipping of the black borders, getting 9's even straight from the pack is a tall order. You'll be better off scouring the earth for raw cards that came from vending, recently opened packs or well cared for sets. They're tough to find but I've managed to build 2/3 of the set in NM/MT without purchasing graded cards.
1. Forget about having a card grade PSA 10. Though PSA 10 examples exist, they are so few and far in between that I don't even focus on, or even dream, any card I will send in will get a PSA 10. This is just not going to happen.
2. Only from time to time even dream of getting a PSA 9. This is similar to the PSA 10 rule though 9s are a little more easier to get ("easy" is probably a bad word here considering I have not yet received a 9) but are still very, very, very tough.
3. Corners are key for PSA 8s. It has been my experience that even if a hint of white shows on any corner, your odds of getting an 8 are dramatically decreased. For this issue, it has been my experience that the graders pay most attention to the corners. They need to be sharp and pretty much close to free of any white showing. Too much white on just one corner will easily drop the card down to a 7. Whiteness (or chipping), fuzz or light rough cutting on the borders can still be seen on 8 cards (though cannot be extreme). Stated differently, my experience has shown that PSA is more forgiving when chipping is on the borders, exposing white, than when the white can be found in the corners.
4. Pay close attention to centering. A lot of 71s are centered poorly. Many cards are notorious for their bad centering. This includes the Munson, Lou Brock and Dick Allen. Case in point, I was in a nice card shop the other day (nice in that it had a lot of vintage stuff) and the gentleman had a huge box full of 71 star cards. Most were beaten to a pulp with none, in my opinion, worthy of an 8 or higher (very few even satisfying the 7 standard), but he had multiples of many players. He must have had 15 or 20 Munsons and, sure enough, everyone of those cards was noticeably off centered. The same held true for his Brocks. I know this is not a scientific study, or perhaps not a big enough sample size, but become aware which cards are tough for centering.
Have fun. Review as many graded samples as you can. Start slow with your submissions. That helps. I would be happy to answer any other questions you might have even though I may not be the most qualified person to do so on the boards.
Mark
<< <i>VirtualLizard, That 71 Hendrix is awesome!!!!!
It is a rare 1/1
JEB.
Item # 1970312901
It is already at $100.00 with 2 days to go! I know the PSA 8 is quite high when you can find it (500, 600 or more), but this is good news for PSA 7 collectors of the set like myself. I purchased my Munson raw about a year ago for $25.00, sent it in for grading a few months ago under one of the grading specials, and pulled a 7. This was even after I had been looking for the card for a couple of years.
Summary to all of this? I think 7s are also a good investment with the 71 set.
My original thought was to complete the 71 set in PSA 8, but reality has kicked in and I realize those OC's aren't that bad (or is that my wallet talking?).
Mark
His 71's looked incredible, yet none of them were slabbed. I'm still kicking myself for not looking through his stacks and stacks of cards in top loaders. He had a Mays that looked incredible from just a first glance.
Waiting on the next mall show in the area so I can find that guy. I know he's got a nice Munson or Rose for me. I can dream, right?
Mark
As for shopping for raw 71's, look closely for tampering. This year is infamous for trimming and coloring. Look for bleed marks on the back and sides of cards. Good Luck.
1971 TOPPS THURMAN MUNSON PSA 7
Item # 1970312901
A very nice price for a 7. Again, I believe PSA 7s from this year are worth the investment and, as many have pointed out, borderline 8s in many cases!