OK, I did the math...why bother
RobBobGolf
Posts: 414 ✭✭✭
OK, I was toying with the idea of trying to put together a mid 70s football set. These sets exploded in the number of cards, most around the 500 mark. So I asked myself, self how much would you spend putting this set together? This is what I came up with.
500 cards graded only during specials 2500.00
Commons aquired @ 2.00 p/card 950.00
Star cards aquired @ 20.00 p/card 500.00
Total investment 3950.00
Could a 74/75/76 FB set ever be worth more than that? I am figuring this set being weighted around 8.5
Please avoid the reply about if you love the set it doesn't matter about the cost, serious replies would be appreciated.
RobBob
500 cards graded only during specials 2500.00
Commons aquired @ 2.00 p/card 950.00
Star cards aquired @ 20.00 p/card 500.00
Total investment 3950.00
Could a 74/75/76 FB set ever be worth more than that? I am figuring this set being weighted around 8.5
Please avoid the reply about if you love the set it doesn't matter about the cost, serious replies would be appreciated.
RobBob
Serving Ice-Custard-Happiness since 2006
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Comments
Of course -- the key is to finding commons at the prices you quoted that would grade out half PSA 8 and half PSA 9. That must be a daunting task, to say the least.
Mike
I would also make one adjustment to your math. There is most likely a superstar card (Fouts, Payton, etc.) from each year which would be a lot more than the $20 you suggested.
Robert
Any high grade OPC Jim Palmer
High grade Redskins (pre 1980)
Completion of the set with commons in a PSA 8 NMMT grade would be fine. However, if not choosing PSA 9 Mint commons, the centering will be a big factor with any PSA 8 selection - again we are talking about value here. There are not many commons currently submitted for most '70s sets. The PSA 9 Mint commons that do appear (mostly on eBay) are usually 1 of 1s and 1 of 2s. Because of the low population report numbers, they sell for a premium. Pricing common cards in PSA 9 Mint is most difficult - do you pass on a listing because of price or wait for future submissions?
Look at the current population reports for the star/key cards within a set as indication of future submissions or submission potential. Also look at the number of overall submissions versus the actual grades given out - this will give you a accurate percentage of the set's overall grading standard. If the percentage of PSA 9 Mint is quite high - then a PSA rated set of 8 to 8.5 may be incorrect choice for that set or year.
A final decision in your choice may be the existing level of competition with fellow collectors. The 1972 Topps Football set is a great example. This can create bidding wars on low population cards.
With this criteria, I have been currently working on a 1948 Bowman Football set in the PSA 8 range.
Good luck!
I actually buy 70's football cards when I come across them. I'm always looking for Steelers in mint condition from that era or any other card that's mint from those years. In fact I bought some real nice '75s at the National from a dealer from Illinois. He charged me $0.50 for the commons and $3-5 for the stars. I got about two dozen graded. One common graded PSA 10 and I listed it on eBay twice and it didn't sell either time (first time at $99 and the second time at $49). I finally sold it for $40 to a someone who frequents this Board. The rest came back mostly PSA 9 and the rest PSA 8. I found that selling these commons and minor stars was real hit and miss. Some people hit the Buy It Nows on some PSA 9 commons for $45 and others never sold with a starting bid of $19 on the 9's and a $5 opening bid on the 8's. A PSA 9 '75 John Hannah didn't even sell for $49 and he's a HOF and the Pop was 3. My observation was that the people who were buying these were fans of a certain team or certain player. Nobody was a set builder. I decided to keep the ones that didn't sell. They were too nice to "give away". So based on this, I feel that it's a buyer's market for '70's football. I think you could build a nice set for even less than you estimate.
So are there other crazies that you will sell to eventually, or are they going to be used to line the inside of your mausoleum?
If you are in this to make *money*, buy all of the best raw stuff now, and slab it when it becomes obvious that there are crazies building the set.
bruce
Website: http://www.brucemo.com
Email: brucemo@seanet.com
"Crazies" ??? Come on now, are all of us who collect graded or ungraded sets from say 1974 and later, really crazy ? If one judges his collection pursuits on monetary return, perhaps we are crazy. If one collects for the challange and/or fun of it, we may not be financially shrewd but possibly still borderline sane. What about all the people collecting the "rare" 50 state quarters ? I'll guess they will probably get no economic windfall, but they can't all be crazy.
I will add that my ex-wife as well as my current one, do think anyone who spends so much time collecting sportscards is in fact, crazy.
Dudes's post was correct. To assemble a set of this nature (at this time) would be a labor of love and money. There would be little return at the present except for the '72 Topps set?
I also buy the centered HOF stars and RCs in PSA 9 if they are at SMR or less.
Is this kind of thing crazy or not? There are 528 cards in 1975 Topps Football. 273 (more than half) of them are not yet graded in PSA-8. 145 have a population of 1. 49 have a population of 2. Only 61 have a population of more than 2.
It seems apparent that a market for these doesn't exist. It can't exist, because there aren't any. So if someone builds this set, they are going to be the first one to do it. It will probably take a long time and cost a lot of money. And then it's expected that this will be worth more than the money put into it?
I doubt it.
Note that if it's crazy, no problem. Crazy is fine. But it isn't objectively sane, is it? I think that in order to do something like this, you have to be ready to spend the money with little hope of getting it back.
bruce
Website: http://www.brucemo.com
Email: brucemo@seanet.com
<< <i>But it isn't objectively sane, is it? >>
I'd say it isn't economically sane.
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RobBob
1) Do an older set that has fewer cards and is "worth" more per card, so the grading fee is less important.
2) Get as many high grade newer cards as you can, and slab them later if it makes sense to do it. You could get a zillion cards for what you'd spend doing one graded set. If it doesn't make sense to grade the cards ever, you still have the cards and can sell them for something around what you paid. If it suddenly makes sense to grade the cards, you grade them then and make a fortune.
bruce
Website: http://www.brucemo.com
Email: brucemo@seanet.com
RobBob