QUESTION----DIPPING PROOF IKE DOLLARS?????

GRANDAM

As you all know most Silver Proof IKE Dollars look like crap in the original holders. All hazy & blue. How can you dip them & remove this & not leave all the dust particles & residue? Every time I dip one it seems to have dust all over it that won't come off. This is using a fresh jar of Jewel Luster.

Thanks, GrandAm

DHeath

The field frost you are describing IMO is probably the result of the damage done by the original oxidation, or was there all along and was masked by the oxidation. Overdipping also can damage the surface. Proper neutralization after dipping is critical to stop the acid from continuing to cook on the surface long after the dipping is done. Proofs have a very delicate surface, and are easily marred. There are bunches of threads about dipping that will guide you. Search for dipping in the archives. One of the telltale signatures of an improper rinse is residue around the devices. Hope that helps.

coinrookie

DHeath,
I completely agree. Also I have looked at alot of proof Ikes, I mean alot. I do not know about your experiences, but I am finding it extremely difficult to find them without some noticeable field frost. I think the size of these coins make it very hard to find truly pristine examples. There is such a large area that it is not hard to find some type of imperfections. Just a newbie opinion.

DHeath

Full agreement. It's easy to find PR68's, but the 69s are worth the search.

supercoin

The "sparkle" in the fields (if that's what you mean) may also just be a result of metal flow when it's struck. At least that's what I assume it is. Whatever it is, it's more prevalant on silver proofs, and overdipping tends to accentuate it.

You really don't need to use full-strength Jeweluster to remove that haze from silver Ikes... 50% or even 25% solution with distilled water is sufficient. Also change your solution frequently so you don't deposit dissolved stuff on new coins.

Oh yeah, one more thing... If your coins that "look like crap" look like this one, send them to me and I'll exchange them for brilliant examples.

Iwog

Yes many Ikes have this milky haze all over them and they look awful. Dip em quickly with 50% jeweluster, rinse very well with warm water (don't forget to turn the coin so you get all of the reeded edge rinsed), and dip in 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. Dab try with a cotton diaper. I have a proof Type 2 1979-S SBA dollar that I processed like this about 15 years ago, and it shows absolutely no sign of hazing, staining, or loss of luster. PCGS will always grade carefully dipped coins.

pontiacinf

Tad

I know this is gonna sound stupid, but that picture your using is of a coin I have here in hand, I had asked you about it a few months back....actually it may have come from you, its a 1974 pr68 ultracam that I cracked and now its in a velvet box, but that picture is almost to the point of a xerox copy.

Is that the one you sold me, as I swear and will gladly let you see, they look one and the same.

or the weed around CT is getting better

supercoin

Connecticut Green? Hmm... This isn't yours, but it's a pretty common coloration pattern on the 74-S in particular (though not usually as nicely formed).

GRANDAM

THANKS for all the GOOD advice!!!!!! I will try some of your suggestions.

GrandAm

chiefbob

"PCGS will always grade carefully dipped coins."

IWOG,

Do they grade them as dipped? No, I'm not being a smart-a$$, but I thought if the coin has been cleaned they return it in a body bag. The reason I am asking is that I have a set of Ikes I bought from B&M in the mid-90s. They were sparkling gems in the massive lucite holder, but got milky haze on them over the years. It sounds like you are saying that I could possibly restore the proofs to near-original condition?

Thanks,

Bob

fivecents

I always submit modern proof coins in mylar 3x3 flips without the poly-bag inserts. This seems to cut down on the hazy fields caused by the slabbing process.

Paul

coinrookie

Tad,DHeath,
Thank goodness I am not the only one who sees this sparkle in the field. I have some Silver proof Ikes that it would take a jackhammer to remove the frost on the devices. It seems on atleast on the ones I have that the heavier the cameo the more the the likely it will have the sparkle or frost in the fields. Does anyone else find that this maybe true?

Iwog

Chief, to answer your question they will NOT grade them as dipped or body bag them. PCGS not only grades dipped coins but often dips the coins themselves at dealer request. Dipping a coin can also increase a coin's certification grade especially in the case of ugly looking spots, although you can also screw up a coin's luster to the point of being ungradable.

The only way to tell if a carefully dipped clad coin has been cleaned is to examine the edge. The red line of pure copper will appear discolored just as if you dipped a penny. I've never worried about this and neither does PCGS.

supercoin

coinrookie, I haven't noticed that, but I haven't kept track either. I'm not even completely sure we're all talking about the same thing.

Also re: dipping -- my suggestion was only for silver-clad Ikes. The outer layers on these coins are 80% silver and dip well.

On the other hand, copper-nickel proofs, despite what you might think by the name and their color... have outer layers that are 75% copper. Copper is highly reactive and doesn't like to be dipped. I've had generally poor experience with copper-nickel proofs staying stable after being dipped. I think they are generally better left alone.

FrattLaw

I know this is taboo, but what about MS70 on clads to remove haze? I use a q-tip and no pressure, just sorta of let the liquid do the work, a dip in alcohol and distilled water. Poof, no more haze. And I can't see any hairlines even under mag of 20x.

Anyone else try this and what are the long term results?

I have a raw SBA 1981-s Type II that would probably grade 69 DCAM but for the haze.

Thanks
Michael

MW Fattorosi Collection

Gilbert

Personally, I am rather fond of the toning that results in the Proof Ike slab, particularly when it is the bluish tinge. I really don't understand why so many find it unattractive. That's just me, of course.

cointagious

frattlaw,
you are using exactly the correct process but reverse the use of water and alcohol. use the alcohol to displace the water and dry the coin. an acid bath is NOT necessary to remove haze from moderns. many of these folks are on overkill when it comes to curating coins. btw, you could get away with using a good surficant from around the house in place of ms70.