this is SOOO cool!

1907Quarter

While Morey was devouring(enjoying)his new coins courtesy young collectors contest, I opened up the enclosed book(Pushkin can now smile:!) Cherrypickers die varieties. On the hints page, I'm told all 1943 nickels have double die obversi. The cynic I am, I look at Morey's brand new BU-1943-D and compare with his toned BU 1945-P. Lo and behold, the G in G-D, s,t in trust are clealy doubled on the '43!!-ah the discoveries of coin collecting!
Eugene

P.S. The G is most interesting, there is a bold seperation between the G and a horizontal line above!

sumnom

All '43's have double die obverses? Really. I'll have to look. I certainly never noticed.

ccr

I`m not trying to be difficult with this question, just trying to clarify. Are all 1943 nickels (Phily, Denver, And San Fransisco mints) or just the all Denver mints are double die obverse?

1907Quarter

P,D,S,C-they all have it, according to the book!

ccr

Wow that is cool. Thanks for the heads-up!

nwcs

So, there wouldn't really be a premium for this?

RGL

Sorry, but since the master die was doubled and all coins are similarly affected, no premium ...

boston

G,Good for you. I don't s,see it t,though.

coppercoins

From the Master Listing of Die Varieties, CONECA, 1994:

1939-1964 SD-O-V-CCW from K-5 (P, D, S, Pr)

This is the longest series doubling known on United States coinage. The 1939 master die was doubled; a class V (5) master die. It was then used to create a hub from which the last two digits (39) were removed. That modified hub was used to make a master die in which the last two digits (40) were punched. It was used in all subsequent years (1941-1964) by punching into the master die the appropriate last two digits. Because this series encompasses so many years, no listing number is being assigned.

my note:

Extremely common on many years of Jefferson nickels, no premium value. Very often mistaken for many of the lesser true doubled die obverses in the series. The most typical pick up point for true hub doubling for those years is to look for doubling in either the star next to the date or in the last two digits of the date (the only part not doubled from the original master die). Of course another way of telling the master die doubling apart from the true hub doubling of the different years would be to study a few rolls worth and remember where the doubling exists on almost all of them, and negate that when looking at further examples.