The best qualifier???
mrichards
Posts: 140
Here is another great debate. I love hearing everyone's opinion of this topic. PSA has 6 different qualifiers. They are (for all of the people out there who do not know).
OC (Off Center)
ST (Staining)
PD (Print Defects)
OF (Out of Focus)
MK (Marks)
MC (Miscut)
These are all the kiss of death when it comes to collecting and selling cards. I had a 52 Bowman Alex Kellner on Ebay which was a 9 OC (The pop is 1 straight 9 (newly graded), 1 9 OC (my card), 4 8's and that's about it. A real low pop card. I finally found an 8 and put my 9 OC up on Ebay and got $30.00 for it???
Out of all of the qualifiers listed above, if you had to make a choice, what would be the best one to buy a card in?
Is a PSA 9 OC 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle more desirable than a well-centered 7?
Is my 1954 Red Heart Spahn PSA 8 MC (Up on Ebay right now - little plug!) nicer than a straight 6? What would you choose? What is the lesser of all evils?
You know, I have always said, "it's not the card's fault it was cut that way".
I originally thought it was OC, but the Spahn I have is dead centered in the front and printed way off in the back. What would you buy?
I was thinking of starting a cool experiment that I know would not cost me alot of money. Find a vintage set with not that many cards (like a 54 Red Heart set) and build the whole entire thing in PSA 8 or better cards with qualifiers. If the set should ever get finished, I bet it winds up in the top 10 in the set registry and it would still be a beauty?
What is your opinion???
Thanks,
Mike
OC (Off Center)
ST (Staining)
PD (Print Defects)
OF (Out of Focus)
MK (Marks)
MC (Miscut)
These are all the kiss of death when it comes to collecting and selling cards. I had a 52 Bowman Alex Kellner on Ebay which was a 9 OC (The pop is 1 straight 9 (newly graded), 1 9 OC (my card), 4 8's and that's about it. A real low pop card. I finally found an 8 and put my 9 OC up on Ebay and got $30.00 for it???
Out of all of the qualifiers listed above, if you had to make a choice, what would be the best one to buy a card in?
Is a PSA 9 OC 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle more desirable than a well-centered 7?
Is my 1954 Red Heart Spahn PSA 8 MC (Up on Ebay right now - little plug!) nicer than a straight 6? What would you choose? What is the lesser of all evils?
You know, I have always said, "it's not the card's fault it was cut that way".
I originally thought it was OC, but the Spahn I have is dead centered in the front and printed way off in the back. What would you buy?
I was thinking of starting a cool experiment that I know would not cost me alot of money. Find a vintage set with not that many cards (like a 54 Red Heart set) and build the whole entire thing in PSA 8 or better cards with qualifiers. If the set should ever get finished, I bet it winds up in the top 10 in the set registry and it would still be a beauty?
What is your opinion???
Thanks,
Mike
Always looking for 1952 Bowmans and 1953 Johnston Cookies PSA 8's and higher.
0
Comments
usually only affects the back of the card.
the front is what i display anyways.
Joe
Sometimes PD means nothing, sometimes ST means nothing. OC isn't vomit. OF and MC are.
bruce
Website: http://www.brucemo.com
Email: brucemo@seanet.com
I would say OC with Top to Bottom off centering. Often the eye appeal of this type of qualifier is quite nice.
RayB69Topps
Some of these are SO minor as to not detract from the card.
O/C, M/C absolute kiss of death
As to the 52 Mantle query, per the vertical Topps issue ( Any horizontal cards such as a 51 Bowman Mantle are not quite as definite in my view ), if the centering flaw was top to bottom, I belive I would rather have a 9 OC with its corresponding gloss , sharp corners, and other "mint 9" features, instead of a 7 with typical NM qualities and a possible 70-30 centering.
Personally, I like ST cards. If it's on the front, it's a crack-out-regrade candidate. If it's on the back, NBD.
PD cards aren't bad. They get to go on a short vacation to SGC and always come back in much better shape.
OF, MC & MK, in reverse order, are the worst to me.
An o/c card can still have great eye appeal. Corners are most important, followed closely by focus/color/gloss. A 80/20 card with razor corners and an untouched surface is one well-kept specimen.
Often an oc card can be "talked into" the next straight grade down.
I also think that PSA slides the grade up on occasion when adding a qualifier.
8oc's that really don't have the crispness of an 8.
Wilson Franks are an exception in terms of OC and ST values.
My friend Levi is working towards an "all-qualified set" I believe there will be a special award plaque involved. Like it's said, buy the card not the holder.
Based on some of the straight 9's (and even 10's) I've been seeing of late, just how bad would a card need to be to get the OF qualifier? I've got a card over here that I can't tell if it's Burt Hooton or Doug Rau. The focus (lack of) is unreal...NQ??? I've got a bunch of these that I've bought unseen only to be shocked when looking at them. They'd be downright humerous if they weren't so expensive. This HAS to be the most missed of all the Q's. Sometimes I wonder if they even look at the image or just evaluate the stock.
Murcerfan, well put. PD's do tend to "go away" don't they. Great post.
Wayne
OC...You're right...Kiss from the devil himself...Break the card out and sell it raw!!..Take the loss!!
KING KELLOGG
email....emards4457@msn.com
CHEERS!!
The next best is PD if it's light. I have a few that are very difficult to detect.
murcerfan is absolutley right...they do tend to go away upon resubmission.
I have 54 Red Heart 8PD that is so faint I can hardly tell.....I think I will resubmit. Thanks Dave for reminding me.
Currently working on:
*1941 Double Play
*500 Home Run Rookie Cards
Always Upgrading
*1954 Dan Dee
*1959 Fleer Three Stooges
Mike