I need help from the large cent collectors
jdimmick
Posts: 9,674 ✭✭✭✭✭
All you large cent collectors, I need Help.
On the way back from one of my plants, I stopped into a Antique center, which sells cosignment type stuff. There is a gentleman who has some coins in his case. (he is not a dealer, but an old time collector from years back) He has a lot of nice original bust halves, seated dollars, and others priced very fair.
There is however, amongst a few large cents a 1794 plain edge, the coin looks extremely nice for the grade that he has assigned, and priced really great if okay. The coin is at least an vf-30 or higher, and still retains the original light brown planchet color. There a few minor marks around the rim and so forth, but appear to be due to the planchet itself prior to striking. The coin looks so good in fact, that it scars me. The thing is if I can pick up this coin for what it is marked, I will be way ahead.
Can anyone give me some tips on what to look for and diagnostics to assure that the coin is a geniune piece, and not an electrocast or some sort of copy. I am not that experienced in early copper, but I would sure like to pick this piece up if a good one.??? I am not used to seing older copper of 1700's looking that original. It looks genuine to me and has not been cleaned.
The problem is, due to it being a consignment antique center, there would be no return(As is).The cosigner is not even present during the transaction.
Jim D
On the way back from one of my plants, I stopped into a Antique center, which sells cosignment type stuff. There is a gentleman who has some coins in his case. (he is not a dealer, but an old time collector from years back) He has a lot of nice original bust halves, seated dollars, and others priced very fair.
There is however, amongst a few large cents a 1794 plain edge, the coin looks extremely nice for the grade that he has assigned, and priced really great if okay. The coin is at least an vf-30 or higher, and still retains the original light brown planchet color. There a few minor marks around the rim and so forth, but appear to be due to the planchet itself prior to striking. The coin looks so good in fact, that it scars me. The thing is if I can pick up this coin for what it is marked, I will be way ahead.
Can anyone give me some tips on what to look for and diagnostics to assure that the coin is a geniune piece, and not an electrocast or some sort of copy. I am not that experienced in early copper, but I would sure like to pick this piece up if a good one.??? I am not used to seing older copper of 1700's looking that original. It looks genuine to me and has not been cleaned.
The problem is, due to it being a consignment antique center, there would be no return(As is).The cosigner is not even present during the transaction.
Jim D
0
Comments
I would stay away from expensive (as defined by your budget) raw coins sold by antique dealers, especially if you're just now getting into collecting early coppers.
Remember, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. It almost always is.
Some of the nicest dealers I've ever met will bury you in coins, not necessarily on purpose but simply becasue they're passing on a mistake.
By the way, there are at least 100 different places to buy accurately graded certified early copper.
At a bare minimum, get yourself a copy of the ANA Grading Guide and a greysheet or Trends price guide (out of Coin World).
Describing surfaces is tricky without having exemplars to compare and show.
Copper is not one of the easiest series to grade.
adrian
They made 22,000 copies of U.S. and English coins. They are very good copies sice they're individually made and only once removed from the original. To keep them from being sold as genuine they stamped the initials R, RR, or MB on the edge of each coin. The trouble was that a lot of people filed off the initials and passed them off as genuine.
Examine the edge for flat spots or traces of filing. Rotate the coin slowly in a good light. Check the surface, too. Some electrotypes show a concave or wavy surface. Check the high points of the surface for traces of the filler metal starting to wear through. Weighing and ringing are good but not foolproof. As always, take a good loupe and check for seams.
Eac graders are tough, in short any noticable wear takes it out of EF-45 fast.
Tbig
K S
I want to look at it real hard again.
jim