How can you tell if an Ike is well struck?

robertpr

How can you tell if an Ike is well struck? Any specific elements to look at? I've heard complaints about Ikes being poorly stuck but isn't it basically a pretty low relief coin anyway?

Geoman

Robert,
I don't know, as I am just starting my Ike set also. But here is a tread that gives info on the different types of one year. The pictures tell the story.

robertpr

That's an excellent thread, I'm gonna have to check my Ikes!

DHeath

Guys, maybe Typetone(Greg) or Supercoin will offer their guidance. I find the silver coins exhibit much fuller strike, with much better reverse detail, and the clads are mediocre. P mint coins are typically the weakest, and 71,72 and 76 type 1 are the toughest coins. The 75 mint set coins (76 T-1) were terrible. I've looked at hundreds, and found only 3 that were worth submitting. The Ike is a low-relief coin with little obverse detail (like the Franklin), and poor planchets that are large enough to pick up a lot of marks.

supercoin

For business strikes, as has been mentioned, a good way would be to compare to the uncirculated silver issues, which are generally better struck, probably largely because of the much softer planchets (outer layer of silver-clad coins is 80% silver).

The master dies changed over time, so you'd want to match them up as follows (I think):

1971-S compared to: 71, 71-D, 72 Type 1, 72-D

1972-S compared to: 72 Type 2

1973-S compared to: 72 Type 3, 73, 73-D, 74, 74-D, 77, 78

1976-S compared to: 76 Ty1, 76-D Ty1

And I guess the 1976-S Ty2 Clad Proof to: 76 Ty2, 76-D Ty2 (these dates normally are well-struck anyway)


For specific elements, look at high points of design in particular, as that's where the metal had to flow the deepest.

The upper wing of the eagle on the reverse on many Philly coins in particular is nearly completely devoid of detail.

On other coins, Ike will be (even more) bald than usual, with hairlines being little more than a blur.

It's also good to look for crispness of lettering, especially around the rims. Often the lettering on one part of the coin will be distinct, but not on the other, indicating an uneven strike.

On a raw coin you can look for nice sharp rims.

And you can even look for FBL on the bicentennial coins if you want.

Another factor is simply how "scratchy" the coin looks, particularly early Philly coins, which apparently suffered from terribly prepared planchets that need to be pounded flat, and poorly struck coins often look worse than others for that reason.

One notable exception, is the 71-D and 72-D Ikes, which are often very clean but poorly struck. Denver apparently used much better planchets. I've seen a lot of 72-D Ikes that would be MS66 based on how clean they are, but so poorly struck they're limited to MS64. Check out the eagle on the reverse on some of those, it almost looks stylized.