Shylock's '72 IHC and EERC's '72 IHC
goose3
Posts: 11,471 ✭✭✭
EERC's...........$30,000.00
Shylock's...........$5100.00
call me blind or crazy but I think Paul's is every bit as red and possibly nicer!
Shylock's...........$5100.00
call me blind or crazy but I think Paul's is every bit as red and possibly nicer!
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I like both, but would definitly take the 5100 one for the money. Why is there such a big difference in price for the same coin in the same grade?
Jon
Shylocks is RB and EERC's is Red tho I don't see any difference. Maybe so in person??.
I didn't realize one was RB. I still like shylocks better. The fields look cleaner to me.
Jon
As Lakesammman mentioned in his "what's hot, what's not" thread, 1872 is the real set stopper of this series. Read Barry Enholm's comments about 1872s in this older article by Pinnacle Rarities, before he started reassembling his current Ally set. Barry now owns one of the two PCGS 66RDs of this date and still isn't satisfied with the color. I believe this is one date where Stewart Blay is looking to upgrade as well.
Rick's example looks like one of the very few true RD 1872s, which by itself makes it fascinating. Combined with the full strike and clean surfaces it's a "freak", and a coin I'd like to see in person some day. Has an interesting silky look to it as well. I agree that my coin is nicer than many 65RDs, but from what I interpret from this image Rick's isn't one of them. It may be a better value -- except to someone trying to put a set of full red coins together.
Wonder what the next price on the coin is going to be?
DAM:
Glad you brought that up.
How many times have we seen formerly RB coins in R holders - often! I think it speaks volumes when someone who knows the game well buys a "nearly red" coin. Of course we don't know if the sale will stick - it may not be red enough, if that's the game being played.
Secondly, I suspect some submitters get preferential treatment. I can't prove it - just suspect it. There is no way to keep a in-person presidential review anonymous. In some cases that's good (when the world's expert is there teaching the graders how to do it right, for instance). In other cases, it may (in theory) be dangerous (ie: high volume submitter - don't want to lose that customer). I'm not accusing or blaming anyone - it's just human nature.
Bottom line is, eventually the "market" prevails and determines the price - have seen many RB coins in R holders sell for very weak prices.
However, its kind of cheating to have a 65RD set and have a coin with a RB label in the key date - probably better to have a 64RD.
An 1872 in 65RD is the holy grail of the Indian set. You get it and you're rolling towards the finish line. You get a 65RB, no matter how nice, and your stuck on the shoulder with a flat tire. $25K more for high honors, sure its worth it.
Rick,
I understand what you are saying, but it kinda depends on how deep your pockets are. The RB coin actually looked better to me. And I guess my real concern on paying the premium red is how long will it stay red. I don't think anybody really knows. With a RB coin you don't have that worry. I guess I'm saying that if the eye appeal is there and you like the coin and it's 25K cheaper why not save the 25K to spend on other coins.
I have a very nice set of Mercs (#1 Basic) that have several non FB coins that are thousands cheaper than FB coins. And mine being almost full and with a full strike everywhere else my coin probably looks better than the FB coin that may have weak hair on the obv. I guess I just go for more of the total look than a hyped up strike designator that may or may not be accurate in deciding which coin looks better or is the best buy.
JMHO, Jon
Here's an example:
1886 Type 2 MS-65RD PCGS $25,000
and one much, much cheaper:
1886 Type 2 MS-64RB PCGS $1,250
The images are deceptive because the luster tends to "eat" the light. The 65RD is a monster and the 64RB is too, but...it's also sold.
This may be easier:
Rick,
I'm not talking about dropping down a grade or two. I'm saying get the equal grade or even better but not FB or RED or FH. I have several Mercs without bands but have a very good strike that cost less than the same coins 2 or 3 grades lower that have bands. My 20-S in 66 is a beautiful coin and the bands are almost there. If they were it's hard telling how much it would have cost. But as is it cost about what a 64 FB would cost. I would rather have mine.
I haven't got a problem with what you are saying, just wanted to clear up what I was talking about and why I collect as I do.
As I said before, I don't know if I would buy RED IC's even if I had deep pockets because of the turning RB possibility.
Jon
Rick,
I was just looking at the pics of the 1886's. Heck, the 64 wins again. Are you sure you have the pic with the right coin. The one marked 65 has 4 hits on the cheek while the other (2nd) has clean cheeks.
Jon