Ike $ pops & pricing.
DesertLizard
Posts: 702 ✭
Am I missing something here?
1971 & 72 Ikes in PCGS MS66 are so tough to find and priced through the roof, bringing hundreds.
My question is how is this possible when I see tons of them raw by the roll on dealer tables. Surely, some of these will slab out at 66?
Any thoughs from the Ike experts?
Also can anyone provide a good explanation for 1972 Ike var. 1-3? My breen book explanation is not too good.
1971 & 72 Ikes in PCGS MS66 are so tough to find and priced through the roof, bringing hundreds.
My question is how is this possible when I see tons of them raw by the roll on dealer tables. Surely, some of these will slab out at 66?
Any thoughs from the Ike experts?
Also can anyone provide a good explanation for 1972 Ike var. 1-3? My breen book explanation is not too good.
0
Comments
My IKE collection has some absolutely horrible coins - 71, 72, 74 - you can't find a nice one for love or money.
As mentioned, both dates are generally terrible -- right off the presses -- and after that it certainly didn't help that they were only released in bags, unlike later years which survive in better condition in mint sets.
I have gone through as much as an entire $1000 bag of 1971-P finding only several marginal MS64s. The best luck I've had is buying "original" rolls, i.e. rolls someone put away by someone soon after they were released. They will be in better shape than those kicking around in a bag for 30 years.
So, you never know about those rolls on dealer tables... if they look original, and the dealer isn't also selling certified Ikes , you might want to give them a look. The series is still largely unappreciated and many dealers don't have a clue as to their worth in high grades.
The Type 1 is a low-relief design struck with the old die steel, and is probably the worst looking Ike of any date.
The Type 3 is a higher-relief design, struck with better die steel, and consequently represents the vast majority of the 1972 population in MS65+.
Ogden
<< <i>Next time you are at a show and see all those 1971-P IKES sitting on the table look at a few. After a little while you are going to wonder how anyone was ever able to find an MS-65. The coins are dogs. >>
The Numish said it all. Also try MS67 on for size!!.
Brian.
Type 1 - Low-relief reverse
Type 2 - High-relief reverse, accidentally(?) struck with a proof die, est. 100,000 mintage
Type 3 - High-relief reverse
The easiest way to tell the difference is by looking at the Earth on the reverse.
Compare them to some silver business strikes, which are generally well-struck so they make good examples. The 71-S, 72-S, 73-S conveniently correspond to the 1972 Type 1, Type 2, Type 3.
Ogden
72-P total graded 58 highest grade ms-65.
then the Ike is definitely the most difficult of the moderns- - and by a wide
margin. But the nickels seem to be very difficult to find with a nice full strike
while the Ikes are just unusual fully struck. Perversely the well struck nickels
seem to be marked up and the clean ones seem to be poorly struck. With Ikes
and other moderns the quality of strike and state of preservation tend to go
hand in hand.
That is strange. Any theory as to why?
With Ikes, it seems many of the marks are due to poorly prepared planchets, made worse by not being fully struck to smooth out the glitches. Which is why nicely struck with a fresh die also reduces marks.
in mint sets). Most of the output of a single die can be damaged by the same misadjusted
or defective coin handling equipment.
I didn't know there were a lot of varieties. When I built my modern proof set PCGS made me buy FOUR.
It was one of the reasons I took it down. I'll keep the Silver Proof and sell the other 3. I have different opinions about a type set.
I just don't like Ike.
My posts viewed times
since 8/1/6
Every type set should have at least a dozen Ikes.