old proof sets

coindaughter

Let's say you had a 1939 proof set and a 1940 proof set from your dad's estate locked away in the safe. Let's say you want to sell them someday. Would you get the coins slabbed first or sell the set as-is in the plastic holder dealy?

Blade

Definitely slabbed. But that may just be me. You'll definitely expand the market.

Placid

Slabbed and individual would probably bring more money overall if they are 65+ grade.
A nice 1939 or 40 proof walker in high grade is a pretty expensive coin.

Russ

If it were me, I'd check the condition of the coins. If they were very well preserved and would grade high, I'd submit them. There's some mondo potential in sets that old; particularly the Walkers.

Even unslabbed, the sets are rather pricey, though. There's a 1940 set on eBay right now that's up to $800, and the last 1939 set that was listed went for $1200.

Russ, NCNE

coindaughter

Follow up question:

If you did get them slabbed, would you sell them individually or as the set?

Russ

Now that PCGS has added a proof set registry, I'd sell them as a set. I think that the price realized might be a "sum of the whole is greater than the parts" equation.

Russ, NCNE

Placid

Set maybe, the nickel and quarter probably won't have much demand on the other hand someone just wanting the Half might not want to pay extra for the other coins.

I would try the set first with a reserve and if no one bites then part it out.

Here is one auction you can watch and see what happens Link

michael

someone you trust and with expertise in such sets and who knows and understands what they are looking at after looking at the coins*********** sight seen ******************then they can tell you SPECIFICALLY WHAT TO DO TO MAXIMIUSE THE VALUE OF SUCH COINS before being sold

sincerely michael

also at least the coins have to be sight seen to give any credience of value and how to proceed anything else is like spitting in the wind

Viper

As a proof coin collector, I can say that I would rather purchase them individually. As with any set, not every coin is going to be the grade you are looking for.

I have purchased a set for just one or two coins in it and I did not pay any premium just for it being a set.

I agree with splitting and slabbing as a single high end coin could be worth more than the entire set unslabbed.

If you do nothing else, do not leave them in the original plastic as that could cause problems that could potentially significantly deteriorate the value of the coins.

gmarguli

I'd probably get the dime and half slabbed and dump the other coins unless they were high grade and then I'd get them slabbed.

solid

Ok, everyone please send your unwanted 1939 and 1940 proof cents, nickles
and quarters to me, postage due!

FC57Coins

Sounds like sound advice you're getting CD - get your coins slabbed to see exactly what you have and go from there. Remember that with a proof set, the ideal situation is to get matched coins, so if you have a bunch of pr63 coins and a pr68 half, well take the half out, do as you will with it, and replace the one on the set with a lesser coin.

Frank

tradedollarnut

Have your cake and eat it too - put them in auction individually with a final lot as a set. B&M does this all the time.

If the toning is well matched, it would be a shame to break them up!

itsnotjustme

If there is unattractive blotchy dirty toning (used three bad words to make sure no-one thinks I mean nice toning) I would consider sending then through NCS to get "conserved" before PCGS slabbing.

I would slab them all unless they are low grade (little demand slabbed), and I would sell as singles. SOmeone may want to upgrade 1 coin of a set, or like many people, be putting together a run of one denomination, not a year set.

Good luck, and it's great you found these boards so some not fully honest dealer didn't buy them off you at a minor fraction of their worth.

beorn

i,m in the process now of slabbing a proof set for each year,but i only have them as far back as 1950.if i get a dud in a particular set i,ll try to upgrade it.when i finish,is it possible to ever actually finish?...i plan on starting a new trend...selling slabbed proof sets....its gonna be all the rage

merz2

coindaughter
As you've been told,slabbed is the way to go.I too am a proof collector.You will receive moore if sold seperately.IMHO
There are very few times all the coins will receive the same grade.That would be the only way they might sell for more as a "matching set" from the mint.You could send them in to PCGS in the original holders and get consecutive #'s.Then offer them that way.

IrishMike

I have sold several of these and love these coins. Here is the best advice I can pass on from my experiences. The first thing to do is to examine them carefully, some of these sets have tarnished over the years. The market for the silver coins almost demands white coins for the silver ones. If they have lost some luster and tarnished I would send them to NCS for conservation. If you get them slabbed at NGC, they will discount the slabbing costs. If not send them to PCGS. Until lately at least, there has been little if any price difference between the slabbing companies with the exception of the cents. The new registry sets may or may not change this as NGC has individual registry for proof 36-42 for each denomination.

Secondly do not sell them as a set. You are limiting your market. These coins are red hot right now. The Walkers are bringing strong prices, as well as the mercs and washingtons and if you happen to hit a high grade on the lincolns, well the prices are skyrocketing there too. Let me empahsis again, eye appeal is paramount on these coins. These coins sell themselves on EBay. Everytime I list one I get bombarded with emails, wanting to buy them out of the auction. One time a fellow emailed me on a Walker, telling me he would be out of the country for two weeks and wanted me to know that he, if he won the auction would be in touch immediately when he got back. Unfortunately for him he got sniped at the last minute. I still get emails from people to be notified if I find other coins in this series.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do. But please get them slabbed. Can you tell I have a passion for them.

coindaughter

Again, all I can say is "Wow." You folks are amazing! Thank you for all of the valuable ideas and advice.
I will bring your suggestions to the family and I'll surely let you know what we do with these coins!

(It won't be for a while...this is a terribly slow process!)

Flash

Are they in their original Mint packaging? If they are, I would think it ashamed to have the coins slabbed.

By the way.. what does the original Mint packaging for 1936-1942 proof sets look like?

coindaughter

The sets we have are like the one in this auction.

Is this really original packaging?

Placid

From 1936 till approximately mid 1955 all Proof Sets were issued in small cardboard boxes in which the coins were housed in cellophane envelopes.
Most of the early Proof Sets have since been removed from the cardboard boxes and the coins placed in a plastic holder to protect them from tarnishing.


Now you have me wondering if you really have proof coins or just 1939 and 1940 coins that were put into a capitol holder.

Well pcgs or whoever will figure it out for you

Cam40

I,ve seen one orginal box (50s) that the coins were all in little 2x2 plastic bags(bodybags? ),and were all held together with a single staple.
The bags looked sorta babyblue tinted and the staple was a little rusty too.And the coins didnt look so great I thought at the time.Ugly toning etc......I might think they were monster toners now though.....

CarlWohlforth

I think matched proof sets should be worth something extra.

I agree with the advice so far. It is just that I think the market should want matched proof sets. There is something special about them. They look so nice when they all have the same toning. It is cool to imagine the coins have been together for all that time.

My wife has a '41 in the original cardboard box packaging. Everytime somebody opens one up there is one fewer in the original box. She wants every set in original packaging, but has several early 50s and the '42 in those capital plastics holders.

In this case your set is not in the original packaging. So if the coins are decent I'd go along with the crowd and suggest slabbing them. They are hot now...

MICHAELDIXON

If it were me, I'd evaluate the half and dime and...if they were nice send them in. The other coins aren't worth alot, so I'd sell them separate. I cracked a 1938 set and sent the half in for grading.
Click to view 1938 Proof half
.

Click to view reverse of 1938 proof half

Viper

While not the case here( with coindaughters' capital holder), but for anyone who still has proofs in the box:

the old box and tissue paper were just packaging and the composition of that cello along with a 60+ yr old rusty staple is a recipe for trouble. I've seen some excellent proofs ruined by cello stripes and spotting.