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What to do with PSA 7 commons ...

wolfbearwolfbear Posts: 2,759 ✭✭✭
in PSA Set Registry Forum

In spite of my screening efforts,
seems like about 5 % of each of my submissions,
of 1960's commons, come back graded the dreaded 7.

Could probably sell them for 9 bucks each,
but I've already got 6 + dollars invested in grading fees, plus there would be ebay and paypal fees.

The cards looked good enough to be 8's, or I wouldn't have submitted them,
and selling them for 9 dollars each would be about the same as if I'd just given them away for nothing before they were graded.

They're starting to pile up, and I'm wondering what others do with such cards.

Pix of 'My Kids'

"How about a little fire Scarecrow ?"

Comments

  • FBFB Posts: 1,684 ✭✭
    Wolfbear,

    You're in the same boat as a number of us. We're all hoping that a PSA 7 market develops down the road where we can make a few bucks on these underappreciated beauties.

    But until then... I generally let my 7's build up until I can't stand it anymore and then list them for $6.00 on eBay and see what I get. I figure that since I'll make money on the 9's and 8's - that break even or even a little below isn't bad on the 7's. Plus, I'd prefer to keep the cash flowing than to hold on to slow moving material.
    Frank Bakka
    Sets - 1970, 1971 and 1972
    Always looking for 1972 O-PEE-CHEE Baseball in PSA 9 or 10!

    lynnfrank@earthlink.net
    outerbankyank on eBay!
  • theBobstheBobs Posts: 1,136 ✭✭
    I sold my bulk 7s from 1965 as a lot on ebay. I threw in a Rose and a couple of semi stars. It brought SMR which made me happy. One transaction was easier than 50+...
    Where have you gone Dave Vargha
    CU turns its lonely eyes to you
    What's the you say, Mrs Robinson
    Vargha bucks have left and gone away?

    hey hey hey
    hey hey hey
  • helionauthelionaut Posts: 1,555 ✭✭
    TheBobs is (are?) right. When I started collecting my 75 set, I was getting the commons in 7, which at the time were about half the price of 8s. For an older set like 1960, I'm sure there are a few people who would love to pick up a good chunk of the set all at once, plus selling them all in one lot would be more economical and easier for you to deal with.
    WANTED:
    2005 Origins Old Judge Brown #/20 and Black 1/1s, 2000 Ultimate Victory Gold #/25
    2004 UD Legends Bake McBride autos & parallels, and 1974 Topps #601 PSA 9
    Rare Grady Sizemore parallels, printing plates, autographs

    Nothing on ebay
  • 1420sports1420sports Posts: 3,473 ✭✭✭
    PSA 7's are Near Mint cards, and there are collectors out there like myself who have absolutely no problem with the grade. Any 1967's?

    collecting various PSA and SGC cards
  • mikeschmidtmikeschmidt Posts: 5,756 ✭✭✭
    <<Could probably sell them for 9 bucks each,
    but I've already got 6 + dollars invested in grading fees, plus there would be ebay and paypal fees.

    The cards looked good enough to be 8's, or I wouldn't have submitted them,
    and selling them for 9 dollars each would be about the same as if I'd just given them away for nothing before they were graded.>>


    Wolfbear -- you're kind of thinking through this a little faulty. Had you known those cards would have been 7's, you wouldn't have submitted them. Since everything now is after the fact, you've spent your money, etc., you are left with a bunch of PSA 7 commons. You've got a few options:

    A) Break them out of their holders and sell them as raw NM-MT (which is what you thought they were)
    B) Sell them as PSA 7 Near Mints
    C) Donate them to charity
    D) Give them to me
    E) Take them to a shooting range and show them who's boss


    Now -- out of all the above options, you get the most money by selling them as PSA 7 Near Mints. Since your grading fees are already gone, all you can do at this point is try and maximize your return. Sure, it kind of sucks to have a card now have a value of less than you spent in grading, shipping and card purchasing costs -- but look at the other side: How many PSA 8s and 9s did you get that cost you the $6/grading fee plus the cost of the raw card? All things equal -- it sounds like your submission results are better than most -- so you should be happy.

    MS
    I am actively buying MIKE SCHMIDT gem mint baseball cards. Also looking for any 19th century cabinets of Philadephia Nationals. Please PM with additional details.
  • toppsguntoppsgun Posts: 787 ✭

    Marc (mikeschmidt) is right. But here's another option:

    Keep 'em. I've actually got a set of '67 NM cards up over 20% complete. Certainly worth more to me than to sell them at a loss. I have an ungraded '61 set that is probably 60-70% NM or better. With my track record with the graders, I'll wait until a $5 special comes along (and it will) and I'll submit about 400 cards at once.

    Of course, if you need the cash and/or just don't want the cards, all the money you've spent thus far is "sunk cost." So whatever you sell them for is green you can use to buy some 8's.

    1960 Topps is one of two sets in the 60's that I just don't care for, otherwise, I'd buy them from you all day long at grading cost. I'm sure someone out there would feel the same.
  • acowaacowa Posts: 945 ✭✭
    1420,

    I have quite a few 1967's...what are you looking for? PM or email cowart@mindspring.com


    Regards,


    Alan
  • lauralanzotti69lauralanzotti69 Posts: 3
    Not to get off the subject, Toppsgun: Which other 1960 set don't you care for? 1962? Just curious on people's opinion and preference on vintage sets.
  • toppsguntoppsgun Posts: 787 ✭

    That would be the one.

    I dislike cards without complete statistics on the back. The brown "woodgrain" borders don't help the issue, IMHO.
  • ejguruejguru Posts: 618 ✭✭✭
    PSA 7's...The bane of our existence! I know I have held on to my grading failures and built up some decent sized collections of 1967 and 1968. I assume I will have many more "failures" in my submissions so I'm planning on combining them with the RAW cards from EBAY advertised as MINT or GEM MINT (but are in reality EXMT or NM) and selling it as a NM set. As Neal (1420) said, there are some collectors that can live with the slightly lower quality and enjoy the affordability of a NM set. I may choose to sit on it a bit (2-3 years) to see what will happen with the graded card market. It seems like from the knowledgable folks on this board that the next few years will be critical. I also think as the economy in general improves, the return on my investment will improve. But hey, I'm no Economist.image
    "...life is but a dream."

    Used to working on HOF SS Baseballs--Now just '67 Sox Stickers and anything Boston related.
  • ScoopScoop Posts: 168 ✭
    You must look at picture in perspective. As FB points out, you are much ahead of the game if you look at your entire submission total and include all the 8's and 9's.

    Another option to be considered is to resubmit if any are lower value pops in which the risk/reward factor for the additional grading cost against the added value would work in your favor considering the low percentage of bump-ups.
    building 1956 Topps PSA 8/9
  • VarghaVargha Posts: 2,392 ✭✭
    It's funny, but before the advent of professional third party grading, those were considered nice cards.
  • dudedude Posts: 1,454 ✭✭
    I'm selling my 7's on eBay (see my link below).
  • toppsguntoppsgun Posts: 787 ✭

    Dude,

    Shameless plug.image

    However, I'm watching a couple of your auctions that I may bid on. That should generate a howl from the shill-bid police.image
  • toppsguntoppsgun Posts: 787 ✭

    Vargha,

    Still are. Professional grading is 1/2 to a full grade off compared to the generally accepted standard I learned in the 90's in this wonderful hobby.

    This thread is just another reminder to collect the card, not the holder. It's cheaper, too.
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