E&T Kointainer Web Site - Manufacturer of SAFLIP brand flips
supercoin
Posts: 2,323 ✭
Just noticed that E&T Kointainer has their own web site (sort of)... they sell the flips I'm always ranting about. 
I use their 2.5" flips for submission to PCGS ($23.00 per 100). A few cents more than normal flips, but very cheap insurance (against hazing of proof coins in particular). And the cost is basically insignificant compared to the cost of grading a coin.
E&T Kointainer Web Site
Their latex finger gloves are also nice -- good compromise between full latex gloves (sweaty) and cotton gloves (slippery).
About the only thing of theirs I've tried and not liked is their Koinpage album pages... too floppy, at least for heavy coins like Ikes.
Happy flipping!
I use their 2.5" flips for submission to PCGS ($23.00 per 100). A few cents more than normal flips, but very cheap insurance (against hazing of proof coins in particular). And the cost is basically insignificant compared to the cost of grading a coin.
E&T Kointainer Web Site
Their latex finger gloves are also nice -- good compromise between full latex gloves (sweaty) and cotton gloves (slippery).
About the only thing of theirs I've tried and not liked is their Koinpage album pages... too floppy, at least for heavy coins like Ikes.
Happy flipping!
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Comments
he gets the 2.5's cause that is what pcgs requires. it is easier for them to get coins out.
rip
EVP
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The coins will slide around a bit in the flips, but the flips are stiff so the rims of the coin will protect the devices and fields, i.e. the flip will not cling to, or rub on, the faces of the coin.
You do want to be careful with heavier coins in particular to make sure they are securely packed so they don't slide around so much that they break open the seams of the flip (which can happen with these stiff flips).
Here's my complete procedure -- trade secrets revealed after much expensive trial-and-error.
1. Insert coin in one side of 2.5" flips and fold flip.
2. Label outside of flip with 1" x 1.5" sticky computer labels (I print a page of labels with the invoice number on them and write the line number on by hand)
3. Rip off several contiguous sheets of 1-foot wide bubble wrap from a roll
4. Put 3 or 4 coins (depending on weight) in a row at the end of the bubble wrap. Fold the whole row over snugly. Put another row of coins on top of that and repeat several times. Finish off with at least one round of only bubble wrap. How many coins I put in one roll depends on the weight of the coins.
5. Tape seam and ends of of bubble wrap with several pieces of Scotch tape.
6. Do the same thing with remaining coins, forming several "tubes" of coins.
7. Insert "tubes" in an Express Mail Tyvek envelope, along with the invoice, and seal.
8. Fold over and tape any excess bagginess in the Tyvek envelope to keep the tubes from sliding around. Stick an address label on it.
9. Insert Tyvek invelope in an Express Mail box, and pack with foam peanuts all around.
9. Tape all exposed seams of box to help prevent bursting.
10. Send it by Express Mail on Monday or Tuesday so it arrives at PCGS by mid-week rather than sitting in a hot (or cold) post office somewhere over the weekend.
11. Offer appropriate prayer or sacrificial animals depending upon your religious affiliation.
I don't insure my Express Mail packages for more than the default $500. The theory being if they have a high insured value, they are more likely to attract unwanted attention. I have never lost one, but of course do this at your own risk.
On occasion with more expensive coins, I will ship by Registered Mail instead. Again, try to time it so it doesn't get stuck somewhere over a weekend or holiday.
If the country is in the middle of a record heat-wave or cold-wave, I would wait until it passes before shipping coins.
Also useful for getting a solid grip on fragile coins like brilliant proofs without using bare fingers, where the fleshy part of your finger can sort of wrap over the edge of the coin (really, I don't have fat fingers!)
When I dip a coin, I rinse it in distilled water and blast it with canned air to remove all the water... without the gloves I risk gripping the coin too tightly (and possibly having my finger contact the faces) or launching the coin across the room. Both of which I've done.
The ones described as "unplasticized" might be ok, but that's an ambiguous term.
Keep in mind that many cheap flips are made overseas under uknown quality control conditions. Even if manufactured with "safe" materials, that doesn't necessarily mean they are free of manufacturing contaminents (like machine oil).
SAFLIPs are manufactured domestically under strict quality control. They are also sealed in packs of 50 to prevent contamination after manufacturing. Even the paper inserts used to label the coins are acid-free archival quality.
There's a reason why SAFLIPs are more expensive, and it's not their marketing costs. I'm not compensated.
I just looked at the box and on the outside it's marked saflip kointainer inc sydney or something ohio.
The sealed inner plastic bag with the flips inside are marked the same (saflip kointainer inc) but the cardboard things to write on say frame a coin-nj-made in usa.
Maybe they sent the wrong ones by mistake.
<< <i>I don't insure my Express Mail packages for more than the default $500 >>
Just a heads up. As of 06.30.02, (when the last postal rate changes were made), the default is now only $100.
Russ, NCNE