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I am going to round up a submission of 70's/80's prf. coins........help

goose3goose3 Posts: 11,471 ✭✭✭
dug out my grandfather's stuff.....

mint sets......
1965,72(5),73(5),74(2),75(2),77-81(2 of each)

prf. sets
Nice!!! 1960, Very nice 1964
68,70,72(3),73-74(2 of each),75,76-81(2 of each), 82,83,91

some blue ikes...3 1971's..........2 1974's
brown box 71s proof ike

anything of particular large interest or very rare in nice grades I should look for in here??? I know about the small date/large date stuff............I have a tough time distinguishing between the typ1 and 2's on the 79 and 81 sets.

these have all sat in a closet since they were purchased from the mint. only a few of them were mine that I bought....most of the stuff from 70-83 is from that stash.

Comments

  • RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭
    The 1968 thru 1974 Kennedy's in high grade DCAM bring a nice premium. But, if they aren't going to make the DCAM designation, they aren't worth submitting unless you just would like to have them in a slab.

    Also, for your proof coins, use only ET Kointainer SAFLIPS. for your submission. I cannot emphasize that enough. I ruined many proof coins with nasty haze before Supercoin hit me over the head and told me what to do. My last seven submissions in a row have all come back with not even a touch of haze - just as pristine as when they left.

    Russ, NCNE
  • If the mint state Ikes are really slick, the 73, 74 and 77 Ikes might be worthwhile. They gotta be ms 65 or better though.
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,637 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Watch for a rotated reverse on the '65 half. DDO on the 74-D halfs (PUP is "TY" of "LIBERTY).
    There's a type "D" reverse on some '81-P quarters.

    Lots of minor and not so minor Double Dies in the proofs.

    Any high grade Ike is good, especially the P type 1's. Also watch for an 80-D half and 81-S
    dollar without marks or gouges.
    Tempus fugit.
  • goose3goose3 Posts: 11,471 ✭✭✭
    what about this dime below. Looks like a VERY clean CAM to me.

    image
  • DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    The 75 Ikes (dated 1976) are type-1 coins, and are always fun. A 1976-P type 1 in high grade is a very valuable coin. Also any heavy cameo in the 60 set could yield good return. Were it me, I'd pick out the nicest 10 coins and submit. That'll give you a feeling for the others.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
  • Can we buy those safeflips online somewhere, Russ?

    Thanks
    Chris Miller
    CoinForums.com
    Unbiased discussion forum using vbulletin software!
  • DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    Goose,

    Try the link below, and it'll give you an idea of the current market for your T1 P mint Ikes. I'll bet that coin easily breaks $200.

    1976-P T1 Ike in PCGS MS65

    BTW - The 1965 SMS coins are also very valuable if they posess any cameo. Put up a pic if you can.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
  • That Roos looks great! Please don't hold me to it, but it looks at least CAM, and depending on the reverse, maybe better!

    I get my SaFlips either from PCGS (via the Phone) or brent-kruger. I took the time to find 2.5x2.5 SaFlips, just like PCGS requests. They're greatly easier to get the coins out for the unpacking and grading guys! You have to make sure you pack them well, especially when you're submitting nickels, and other small-size coins. Make sure you get the crunchy flips.
    I'm with Russ - I got a few CAMs that got CAMmed in shipment before I started crunchy-flipping.
  • goose3goose3 Posts: 11,471 ✭✭✭
    ok,
    here's a real dumb question. Sorry but I don't know squat about these moderns.

    what is the difference between typ1 and 2 1976 dollars?
  • RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Can we buy those safeflips online somewhere, Russ? >>



    Chris,

    They're available a variety of places. Just make sure you get genuine SAFLIPS made by ET Kointainer. I get mine at Stanton Books & Supplies.

    Russ, NCNE
  • DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    Goose,

    All of the 1975 Ikes are type I. They changed the lettering on the reverse in 1976.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
  • cladkingcladking Posts: 28,637 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The '76 type 1 was made the first few months of 1975. They have wide flat lettering
    on the reverse, and many subtle differences on both sides. These account for all of
    the coins in the 1975 mint and proof sets. The type 2's have narrow lettering on the
    reverse and account for all the coins in the 1976 mint and sets.
    Tempus fugit.
  • In addition to those mentioned...

    1971 blue Ikes in MS66+

    1981 SBAs, MS66+ for the 81-D, MS65+ for 81-P and 81-S. The 81-S in MS67 is a family vacation to Hawaii. image

    Some of the mid-70s Lincoln cents are worth pretty good money in highest-grade DCAM, they're often ruined by black spots.

    Basically any coin that jumps out at you, take a look at Teletrade prices and see if it's a winner.

    For flips, you can also order directly from E&T Kointainer (at a discount if you order by the case... might make sense if you're a crazed Kennedy hoarder image):

    Here's their info:

    E&T Kointainer
    PO Box 103
    Sidney, HO 45365

    Phone: 937-395-4812

    Bern Nagengast owns it.

    I think that info is still current... it's been a while (still working through my first case...)
  • RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭


    << <i>might make sense if you're a crazed Kennedy hoarder >>



    Were you referring to any one in particular?image

    Russ, NCNE

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