Full head standing liberty quarters

dan1ecu

I will one day want a full head standing liberty quarter for my collection as a type coin. I wanted to do some research first because they can be quite expensive. Is there anything that I should look for, or be aware of when evaluating one? I’d probably prefer an MS65 or better. Do different grading services have a different definition of “full head,” as they do for “full bell lines” on a Franklin half? If so, which company is the strictest? I’ve gathered that the ear hole is generally what’s missing on weaker-struck coins - true?

Also, what do you think is the better value in the current market: a common date coin in as high a condition as I can afford, or a more scarce date in lower (but still mint state) condition?

Thanks,

Dan

jom

This is actually an easy question to answer. You've said "one day" you'll want a coin. That implies you have plenty of time to look, right? Therefore, in the time BEFORE you buy this coin look at as many as you can. 100s...1000s until YOU know what a Full Head SLQ should look like and which dates are easy or hard to find with FH's. By then you won't need a grading service to tell you what is a FH or not. You can decide for yourself.

jom

BigD5

I think the best way to find an affordable, quality SLQ, is for an 80% full head example that has full shield detail. Full head SLQ's don't necessarily mean fully struck. Look at the whole coin, and you can save some bucks by getting an "almost" full head coin with better overall detail than many full head specimens. If price isn't much of an object, than by all means go for the full head, full shield etc. but on a budget, my coin will fit the bill.

lclugza

I have seen full head Standing Liberty quarters (both types) and they are very beautiful coins. I especially like the "topless" Type One coins. In MS65FH I think the Type Ones list at about $1500 (although you could get one for $1000 or maybe less about five years ago) and the Type Twos run $600-$800. So they are not all that expensive.

griffin6

The criteria for Full Head is three distinct leaves, a complete hairline and the earhole. Overall, PCGS is probably strictest, but it's close. If you want an example that's pristine and "no questions," by one of the dates that is frequently well struck. You'll get the look you want without a huge price tag.

kranky

Jay Cline notes in his book that the 1930 and the 1917 T1 are the two most available in FH. He also mentions that he felt that some of the services were more lenient on the FH designation in the early days, and some of those wouldn't meet later FH standards.

cointagious

dan,
bigd's suggestion for seeking out a full shield piece is very astute. in type II, these are rare relative to those with full heads. will rossman gave the graders definition of a full head. now if you can find an attractive piece with both attributes from a branch mint you will have an absolute winner! spend a few bucks and pick-up a copy of 'standing liberty quarters' by j.h. cline. great background on full head/shield rarity can be found in there by dates/mm.