What's the difference between 1976 Type 1 & 2 Ikes?

mdwoods

How do you tell them apart? Thanks, Mark.

Russ

Look on the slab label.

Russ, NCNE

mdwoods

Thanks Russ, now why didn't I think of that?

keithdagen

Mark, it's in the lettering on the reverse. Type 1 looks flat, while the Type 2 looks struck up. I've got sizable scans in my Registry set here or on my webiste that makes the difference easy to see.

Endocrinologist

1975 Mint Set has the Type I IKE
1976 Mint Set has the Type II IKE.

If you have these, take a look.

Endo

cladking

Type 1's were struck up to July of '75 and account for all the Ikes in 1975
mint sets. Type 2's were struck until the end of '76 and account for all the
Ikes in 1976 mint sets. There are obverse differences between the types
also, but no known mules.

itsnotjustme

Now that wouldn't be a mule...

keets

look at the reverse of the coins. the difference is in the last "S" in states and the "R" in dollar. with T1 the "S" is much longer and the "R" is straight. T2 has a shorter "S" and a curved "R" and it's easy to tell the two apart when you have one of each to look at.

i think they dropped the ball when they were designating T1 and T2. if you look at all the different date Ike's the T1's, 1975, are the only ones that have the different lettering difference. all the other dates in the series are T2 as far as the "S" and "R" go but they use a different size letter altogether on the bicentennials. very confusing. hey supercoin, you're the Ike guru. what do you think?

al h.

FC57Coins

The type 1 Ikes have block style lettering, while the type 2 Ikes have more refined lettering - see attached scan - Type I on the left, type II on the right.

Regards,

Frank

shortdj

From "REDBOOK": " Variety 1 design in low relief, bold lettering on reverse. Variety 2 Sharp design, delicate lettering on reverse."

Just trying to hit the nail on the head

BlueCole

Fat letters and skinny letters!!!

B.

shortdj

I like the fat ones better! More elegant looking, IMO!

pontiacinf

fc57 said it best...block letters type one..skinney type 2

supercoin

Not sure I followed your question keets, but the info given so far is correct.

For completeness, here are all EIGHT bicentennial Ikes:

Type 1:
1976
1976-D
1976-S Clad Proof
1976-S Silver
1976-S Silver Proof

Type 2:
1976
1976-D
1976-S Clad Proof


A dedicated type collector's set is woefully incomplete without an example of each of the SIX(!) distinct bicentennial Ike types:

Clad Type 1 (unc and proof)
Clad Type 2 (unc and proof)
Silver (unc and proof)


Here's another photo showing the difference in the reverse lettering around the rim. As mentioned, the R is a good letter to look at. Type 1 on the left:

mdwoods

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the time and effort. Mark.

keets

supercoin

i was just saying that on the T2 coins the lettering is the same as all the other years only larger while on the T1 coins it's much wider and a few of the letters are different. leave it to the mint to make variety in a short lived series.

al h.

DHeath

Mark,

That series is a logical progression for you. I like Ike too. How far back will you go in the dollar coins? BTW - How is the early copper search?

supercoin

keets, yeah, that is kind of bizarre. It may be that the winner of the design contest for the reverse submitted lettering like that, I'm not sure.

The Ike series does have a great deal of variety within it -- low/high-releif designs, bicentennial designs, two different metallic compositions in both unc and proof, major varieties readily viewable with the naked eye -- which is one of the things I like about it. Never a dull date.

One of these days I'm going to count up how many unique Ike types there are. It's a large number in proportion to the number of years it was made.

JJacks

Were mint sets in 1975 just made poor, or why are Type 1 Ikes so tough in high grades? What do you normally get in 75 Mint sets?

JJacks

supercoin

Hey, the Ikes in the 1975 mint sets are the good coins! It's not uncommon to go through an entire bag's worth of 1976 Ty1 Ikes with nothing more than a tiny stack of marginal MS64s to show for your efforts. Many have terrible mushy strikes, definite no-bell-line coins.

Among the usual litany of problems for Ikes, the dies for this first year of bicentennial Ikes were horribly overused, probably trying to ramp up to meet anticipated demand. My guess is they had a batch of extra bad planchets too.

The mint set coins are generally better struck, and not as prone to bag marks. But many suffer from severe scrapes on the high points, which I assume had something to do with the machinery that packaged them into the sets.