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I'm a newbie with lots of questions. Help!

Hello folks,
I'm new here, and I sure like what I've been reading the past few weeks. There certainly is a lot of knowledge threading around here! That's very appealing to me 'cause I like to ask questions and enjoy super-seasoned collectors dissecting card collecting into the science that all things are really about........
details, facts, circumstances, etc.

My biggest fact-finding mission is to fully understand the psa grading, to where, like many of you, could realistically call the grade and have it be that grade. I know this can't be easy so my ears and eyes are wide open! I've been collecting since I rediscoved my '60's and '70's in 1983; but on a small time basis with some card shows thrown in in the late 80's and very early 90's. So without further ado....................

1) I have a very nice 1975 set that I feel would grade overall a super solid 7 or a maybe-sorta-solid 8. I have tried to be as critical as possible but still feel uncomfortable with the overall condition (they don't vary much at all in condition - a tight set). I haven't submitted any cards to date, as I think it would be financially best for me to keep 7's in a binder, but I'm tempted to register my set if I can pull off 8's. Nothing wrong with 7's, mind you, but if I decide to sell at some point, the 8's would be worth my while. I'm interested in your experiences with 1975's, and would be willing to send some sample cards (extra commons, etc.) for someone to unoffically "grade" for me. What I'm looking to do here is make an intellegent decision on what my 75's REALLY are. Any takers?????

2) I also have partial sets in '70 and'71. I really like these sets but many of the cards are off-centered, with realistically a 5, 6, or 7 on the 71's and 7 and maybe some 8's in the '70 set (again, my opinion.) I really don't have a fuzzy feel for psa grading (I don't own any graded cards at this time, but I've always been very super fussy about corners, centering, etc. Any experiences with these would be appreciated.

3) Related to the above: I have 2 1970 card #1's: One has red team lettering (in say a 5 or 6), and I have one with orange team lettering that I would estimate an 8. Is the orange a variation? I've had the orange one for at least 12 years so I don't think it would be a fake..........but I don't know.

4) I often wonder just really how much old unopened material is out there. Say 10 wax cases of 1966, or boxes and boxes of unopened 1956 material, stored in some guys garage. You see a pack or sometimes a box here and there, but is there anybody that has just boatloads of old stuff that for whatever reason, just lasted this long???? I know of a person in Seattle that has may cases of 1980 wax, and while that's commendable, it's still not the really old stuff................

Although I still have many questions to go, I'll take a break here and see what you folks have to say.

So.................thanks in advance for any responses, and I look forward to conversing with you about this wonderful cards and others. By the way, I'm a Clemente fan, grew up playing baseball near Pittsburgh in the late 60's and 70's, so I consider myself pretty lucky! And for all you Pirate fans, you certainly should be able to figure out where my handle came from!!!

Cheers, BugOnTheRug

Comments

  • PlayBallPlayBall Posts: 463 ✭✭✭

    Welcome to the boards!

    From personal experiences, and what I've learned on this board, is that your 1975 "super-solid 7" and "sorta-solid 8" set, will probably be a super-solid 6, and sorta-solid 7 set.image

    I'm not a 70's guy, but I'm sure they can give you better advice on your specific questions.

    Bernie
    Bernie Carlen



    Currently collecting.....your guess is as good as mine.
  • NickMNickM Posts: 4,895 ✭✭✭
    Welcome.
    If you have a scanner or digital camera, post pictures of a couple of the cards (the bigger and clearer, the better) and ask for opinions of the grade.

    Nick
    image
    Reap the whirlwind.

    Need to buy something for the wife or girlfriend? Check out Vintage Designer Clothing.
  • Welcome Bug,

    In regards to the 1975 collection, most common psa 8's aren't even bring the cost of grading fees so I believe it would be questionable to grade any cards unless they were stars that would most likely bring an 8 or commons with a good shot at a 9. I would step back and ask myself what set do I really like the best and perhaps start a graded set in that year. Even though it would be nice to have a head start, your set may have more value as a complete set than it would if it was sold as a graded set once you subtract the grading fees. Good luck with whatever set you decide on.

    wayne
    1955 Bowman Football
  • I agree with Wayne. I wouldnt break up the 75' set. Even as an ExMt/NrMt raw set it has value. I can still remember the newbie days. Even with the most discriminating eye my expectations were consistently one grade higher than PSA would slab my cards.
    Choose the set you really love and start a graded version of that set. There are anxious comrades in every set group that would be happy to welcome the new guy and get you started on your set with extras they have kicking around. Secondly, if you are hell bent on submitting on your own find a dealer who will sell you MINT cards. Accept nothing less than perfect and look for someone who will work with you and let you send cards back n/c if they dont meet your definition of MINT. If you buy MINT you at least have a legitimate shot at 8's on a consistent basis. Lastly, there is always eBay.
    In a way I envy you. Getting started with a graded set for the first time is real exciting. Trust me, you will get the fever.
    Let us know which one you start. I admit to being partial. :-)
    RayB69Topps
    Never met a Vintage card I didn't like!
  • playball - From personal experiences, and what I've learned on this board, is that your 1975 "super-solid 7" and "sorta-solid 8" set, will probably be a super-solid 6, and sorta-solid 7 set

    1) Actually, from my personal experiences, people tend to be overly optimistic about what they have. Most new people would say that their 1975 set was all Mint and Gem Mint. A description of 7 and maybe 8 set is very realistic, and shows that the cards were actually looked at prior to assigning his grade to them. As far as grading them goes, it would be best only to send in the star cards which you feel have a solid chance of getting an 8. Send a few to PSA for their opinion, not us. See how they do, and if you're off a bit, it won't matter as much as if it were a common. Take a good look at what you get back and how it compares with what else you are thinking about sending in. Check Ebay to see how what is worth sending in if you aren't sending them in to collect a whole PSA set.

    2) Nice 70 and 71's look like any other year's nice cards. Nice cards are well centered with sharp corners. The lower grade ones aren't going to be worth sending in. Pick the best of the best and send a couple in, and then go from there.

    3) This isn't a printing that was done on purpose. Depending on the amount of red ink put down, you will have different shades of red/orange on different cards.

    4) The unopened finds will never end. That's part of the fun. You never know what's around the corner.
  • BigKidAtHeartBigKidAtHeart Posts: 1,799 ✭✭
    Bug On The Rug (or BOTR for short!)

    We are glad to have you!!

    Actually, a GREAT site for info about collecting, specially graded cards
    is in the Signature Line of BRUCEMO (the member with the pokemon icon!) image

    (at the risk of giving him a big head...) His site is full of great information & pics!

    Here is the link in case you missed it:
    http://www.seanet.com/~brucemo

    also try these intresting sites about the History of Card Collecting!
    Chapter 1
    Chapter 2
    imageimage
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