Franklin Half Dollar Evaluation

dragonwalker

I don't have a lot of coins and I'm pretty new to coin collecting. I don't have any other Franklins but I really like the look of the coin so I was planning on buying 1 very nice example. I wanted this example to be a DCAM proof since I like the look but wanted to keep the price reasonable. I asked around and was told that a PR-67 is a good sweet spot for quality to value, what do you guys think? I looked online and eBay has many selections however nearly all graded Franklins at this level were priced above Numismedia. I found 1 that looked interesting and the best value. What do you guys think? I was offered $165. Is that fair or can I get a much better deal by looking longer? Does it look fairly graded?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376467266019?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20211130125621&meid=1b3322ca00a14ca09530c32084a98f9f&pid=101465&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=376467266019&itm=376467266019&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=3650466&_trksid=p3650466.c101465.m3507

ChrisH821

I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

MFeld

It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

291fifth

Do you really want to spend that much money on a 1962 proof half dollar?

dragonwalker

@ChrisH821 said:
I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

@ChrisH821 said:
I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

@ChrisH821 said:
I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

Are you referring to the spots in the field? If so, are spots like these typically considered in the grading of the coin or regarded separately like toning?

dragonwalker

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

Could the apparent degree of frosting be dependent on camera angle like business strike coins or does the level of frosting show regardless of camera angle?

dragonwalker

@291fifth said:
Do you really want to spend that much money on a 1962 proof half dollar?

Sure, I’d like to spend less but the Numismedia price indicates the market price is about this level. Is there another quality to price point you think is a better value? I am planning to buy only 1 example, I would like it to be excellent.

MFeld

@dragonwalker said:

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

@MFeld said:
It might very well just be the images. However, the degree of frost doesn’t appear to be as strong as I saw in pictures of a few other examples I viewed.

Do you live where it’s possible to attend a decent sized show so that you can view a lot of coins in hand, in order to get a better perspective? Since you’re “pretty new to coin collecting” I strongly recommend that, if possible.

Edited to add: Also, in most cases it’s impossible to assess the grades of proof coins accurately. That’s because nearly all proof coins exhibit some degree of hairlines, which can’t necessarily be seen in images.

Could the apparent degree of frosting be dependent on camera angle like business strike coins or does the level of frosting show regardless of camera angle?

It could be the camera angle and/or the lighting.
But it’s a relatively common coin and you should have plenty from which to choose if you’re looking for a PR67 DCAM for that type.

ChrisH821

@dragonwalker said:

@ChrisH821 said:
I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

@ChrisH821 said:
I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

@ChrisH821 said:
I would pass on that one due to what looks like spots on the obverse.

Are you referring to the spots in the field? If so, are spots like these typically considered in the grading of the coin or regarded separately like toning?

Yes, the sort of hazy spots. I'm not sure how they are considered in grading but they certainly reduce the eye appeal. If you are looking for a DCAM I would suggest looking at 1956, they are plentiful and IMO have a bit more "charm" than the 1960's halves. Outside of DCAM, I don't think you can go wrong with a nice 1952 or 1953 in PR66/66+ with some contrast.

Morgan White

MEJ7070

Welcome to coins. Franklins are a good place to start.

I wouldn’t become too preoccupied with finding deals according to numismedia. I understand needing a base line for valuing stuff but for Franklin’s Id just look at recent eBay sales.

I recommend getting out and looking at as many Franklins as you possibly can to develop a sense of quality and for what you like.

Good luck and hope you find enjoyment in the hobby.

Coins3675

I would pass

291fifth

@dragonwalker said:

@291fifth said:
Do you really want to spend that much money on a 1962 proof half dollar?

Sure, I’d like to spend less but the Numismedia price indicates the market price is about this level. Is there another quality to price point you think is a better value? I am planning to buy only 1 example, I would like it to be excellent.

Just keep in mind that you are spending money on a very common date coin.

dragonwalker

@291fifth said:

@dragonwalker said:

@291fifth said:
Do you really want to spend that much money on a 1962 proof half dollar?

Sure, I’d like to spend less but the Numismedia price indicates the market price is about this level. Is there another quality to price point you think is a better value? I am planning to buy only 1 example, I would like it to be excellent.

Just keep in mind that you are spending money on a very common date coin.

Yes, exactly. I filtered for a common date because I wanted the best example within the budget I would like to spend.

winesteven

@291fifth said:

@dragonwalker said:

@291fifth said:
Do you really want to spend that much money on a 1962 proof half dollar?

Sure, I’d like to spend less but the Numismedia price indicates the market price is about this level. Is there another quality to price point you think is a better value? I am planning to buy only 1 example, I would like it to be excellent.

Just keep in mind that you are spending money on a very common date coin.

But since his goal is for this to be a Type Coin, I don’t disagree with his logic of buying a common date in the highest grade he is comfortable with financially! I do the same for my Type Coins. If I bought tougher dates, then I’d have to get lower grades. Yes, some collectors prefer buying tougher dates for Type Coins, and that’s ok. But some don’t.

Steve