Extreme closeup setup.
in2Coins
Posts: 379 ✭✭✭✭✭
There’s been questions of what type of setup I have for extreme macro photography. I have listed the progression of my setup for extreme macro photography. See below.
If anyone decides to try getting into extreme closeup photography, I recommend reading and getting info online first! There are lots of videos that you can learn from. Also read into photo stacking which will be very important to learn in order to get sharp photos from different focus plane. In addition, type of absolutely needed components (extensions, tube lens, step up and down rings, focus rail, photo stacking software etc.).
Setup #1:
Setup#2: with DYI components
Setup #3: added objective lenses with appropriate extensions.
Setup #4: Current and latest setup. Will stick to this for a while. I hope!
Comments
I won't even attempt to do what you do, but will instead enjoy the images you produce for us.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
That’s fantastic!
Mr_Spud
Glad you're not taking my portrait picture.
Nice view of the slope down the sides of the mintmark!
Thanks for sharing! You have an awesome set up.
Custom album maker and numismatic photographer.
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Would that be a 1955-S Lincoln with RPM?
As good of a coin closeuo photo artist as I have ever seen. Great work, Criselda.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
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It’s a 1951 S.
Thanks, Jim!
lol….you have the Hubble telescope set up in your office.
Absolutely great images!
Awesome photography!
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wow wow, what macro rail and lights are you using in pic 3 (actually i'm interested in all the gear in that diy setup)? Also please list some your lenses
This is amazing!
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Very nice setup!
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
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What do you use for lighting? I seemed to get an amber glow on coin images until I went with a "Refresh" GE led.
I really like the below rechargeable cube light from Amazon. My white balance setting is in Auto and I seldom do any post WB editing. It retains the coin’s contrast. It also comes with diffuser and really controls harshness to minimum level. I have 2 attached with adjustable arm to my setup. 3 would be ideal. I also bought a backup battery bank to charge them. Very convenient!
I’ve tried and used most lighting there is and this cube gets the job done with pretty accurate white balance. My alternate lighting would be the old Jansjö gooseneck lamp.
The manual rail is manufactured by German company, Novoflex. See below.
I have multiple Objective lenses but my main lenses are:
-Mitutoyo 10x M Plan APO: This has the longest working distance of 34mm between your subject (coin) and the lens. Mitutoyo Objectives lenses are the best there is. Not cheap. Be careful if buying used from eBay. These MIT lenses are very sensitive. Minor drop from mishandling can misalign the internal components and make these lens almost useless.
-AmScope 4X Plan Achromatic: Working distance is short. About 8mm.
I bought the Mitutoyo 5x Mag for its working distance of 34mm but it could not cover Morgan $ date in its entirety with a “Full Frame” camera. I read about this lens and the reviews are justified. Also cost a fraction of the Mitutoyo 5x.
Absolutely sharp for a lens that cost less than $30! They manufacture different model with the same magnification. Make sure to get the below lens appearance. The Red ring should be as shown. The other one has the Red ring on the other end. They are not sharp like this one.
-I also use a Nikon Fluor Plan 10x: Backup Lens. Working distance is 16mm as shown on the lens’s marking. It’s sharp as well. Price is cheaper than the MIT.
-Laowa 100mm 2x Macro Lens: My go-to lens for full coin photography. Sharp!
Pics using Amscope $30 lens.
I'm using your copy stand with a bunch of add on stuff and a 1 meter 4040 post -- still loving it! Thanks again.
Actually, I have some measure of control of Hubble. I'm not at the console sending commands to the spacecraft, but my team wrote the code that tells it what to do to "point and shoot". Details would take some space... While we do occasionally take images while pointed at the Earth (for calibration purposes), Hubble does not have the resolving power to see anything like an individual coin, much less metal flow around a mint mark.
Collector of Liberty Seated Half Dimes, including die pairs and die states
No. That's fairly normal for that S if it's strongly punched and the inside isn't polished down.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Amazing!!! I could never do that.
me neither, insane results, color me impressed.