Something Shaun didn’t think to include (expound!)
I don't track or buy MS coins but the usual commentary among those that do is to often say; "might as well buy a proof; cost less and usually have good eye appeal." I do know according to my Lib. seated reference book proof coins are often easdier to find too. james
@jmlanzaf said:
The word "key" gets thrown around rather loosely with these moderns. A normal proof ASE had a mintage of 400,000 ÷/-. There are now THIRTEEN with mintages less than 200,000 and EIGHT at 100,000 or less.
The number of regular issue proofs sold has dropped in b half in the last 15 years. If that continue, by 2040 200,000 will be the norm. Mintages dropping because demand is dropping does not create "keys".
It does if it ends being the lowest mintage coin.
However I agree, and would sell the current coins being released for the profit right now. Nothing is worse than buying a lot of coins and when it comes time to sell seeing them only be worth 50% of what was paid.
I have two explanations for the last part of your post:
1) the collector isn't actually that interested in and doesn't actually like what they are buying that much.
2) The collector needs to align their budget with their financial risk tolerance.
If this was me and changing one or both doesn't resolve it, I'd be questioning why I collect at all.
Something Shaun didn’t think to include (expound!)
With a budget in that range - or, for that matter, any range - I would want to collect something where I had to work hard to actually spend my money on things that fit the collection. So within your parameters, I’d probably choose to collect something very specific and obscure, and where the best items rarely exceed $1000. Mexican tokens of the War for Independence era are the first thing that come to mind. Or perhaps obsolete currency from my home county.
Andy Lustig
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
Just get what catches your eye on the day you’re able to shop
I have never spent that much on a coin. Collecting since the early 2000's and not a single gold coin in the stack. (I missed the boat).
If I was dropping that much, I'd taking a step back and saying "would a non-collector or new collector think this is 'cool'?"
Not that I'm really worried what other people think of my collection, but liquidity = accessibility.
PM value sets a floor, and sometimes a subsumed collector value sets a second sub-floor. I've been reading about French Napoleon gold coins from the 1810's going to the smelter recently. If I had the budget, those are the types of coins where I'd do a buy-in.
Something Shaun didn’t think to include (expound!)
I like the idea of going for AU 1820s and 30s CBHs. I think those can be had for $500-1000 prices.
Not that I want any more competition for auctions I'm bidding on, but Middle Date (Coronet Head) and Late Date (Braided Hair) Large Cents in AU to low MS can be had for around that amount too. I'm not sure where that falls in the categories for voting.... but in low grades, they're pretty cheap, but in higher AU to MS grades they can get pretty spendy... good luck in whatever you choose.
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
Just get what catches your eye on the day you’re able to shop
I completed a complete collection of Morgan's by date. Mostly Ms 63 to ms 64 coins. I did mix in two Carson cities. I just bought what I could when I could. The 1893 o was defiantly the pricest.
Positive BST as a seller: Namvet69, Lordmarcovan, Bigjpst, Soldi, mustanggt, CoinHoader, moursund, SufinxHi, al410, JWP
I picked up a library of coins book with a few already in it and have been adding. Lifetime work with the chain cent and some others, but could be intriguing
This is not a bad option at all. I only dabble in them, trying for nicer pieces.
Member - ANA Exhibiting Committee, Membership and Outreach Committee, George Heath Society, PAN, FUN, ANA Qualified Exhibit Judge, Joe Boling Award winner, Glenn Smedley Award winner.
Comments
I agree. I'm doing the same with non-gold coins.
I don't track or buy MS coins but the usual commentary among those that do is to often say; "might as well buy a proof; cost less and usually have good eye appeal." I do know according to my Lib. seated reference book proof coins are often easdier to find too. james
I have two explanations for the last part of your post:
1) the collector isn't actually that interested in and doesn't actually like what they are buying that much.
2) The collector needs to align their budget with their financial risk tolerance.
If this was me and changing one or both doesn't resolve it, I'd be questioning why I collect at all.
Capped Bust half dimes.
With a budget in that range - or, for that matter, any range - I would want to collect something where I had to work hard to actually spend my money on things that fit the collection. So within your parameters, I’d probably choose to collect something very specific and obscure, and where the best items rarely exceed $1000. Mexican tokens of the War for Independence era are the first thing that come to mind. Or perhaps obsolete currency from my home county.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
I like TPG graded MS64 or higher investment grade material.
I have never spent that much on a coin. Collecting since the early 2000's and not a single gold coin in the stack.
(I missed the boat).
If I was dropping that much, I'd taking a step back and saying "would a non-collector or new collector think this is 'cool'?"
Not that I'm really worried what other people think of my collection, but liquidity = accessibility.
PM value sets a floor, and sometimes a subsumed collector value sets a second sub-floor. I've been reading about French Napoleon gold coins from the 1810's going to the smelter recently. If I had the budget, those are the types of coins where I'd do a buy-in.
I like the idea of going for AU 1820s and 30s CBHs. I think those can be had for $500-1000 prices.
Not that I want any more competition for auctions I'm bidding on, but Middle Date (Coronet Head) and Late Date (Braided Hair) Large Cents in AU to low MS can be had for around that amount too. I'm not sure where that falls in the categories for voting.... but in low grades, they're pretty cheap, but in higher AU to MS grades they can get pretty spendy... good luck in whatever you choose.
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
I completed a complete collection of Morgan's by date. Mostly Ms 63 to ms 64 coins. I did mix in two Carson cities. I just bought what I could when I could. The 1893 o was defiantly the pricest.
Positive BST as a seller: Namvet69, Lordmarcovan, Bigjpst, Soldi, mustanggt, CoinHoader, moursund, SufinxHi, al410, JWP
I picked up a library of coins book with a few already in it and have been adding. Lifetime work with the chain cent and some others, but could be intriguing
This is not a bad option at all. I only dabble in them, trying for nicer pieces.
Member - ANA Exhibiting Committee, Membership and Outreach Committee, George Heath Society, PAN, FUN, ANA Qualified Exhibit Judge, Joe Boling Award winner, Glenn Smedley Award winner.