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1955 Topps advice

New poster, so feel free to move if this is in the wrong forum.

I was given some 1955 Topps cards by my aunt to include 2 Sandy Koufax RC, Harmon Killabrew, Banks, Aaron, dusty Rhodes, Ted Williams and a few others. They all look to be in pretty darn good condition and are all in sleeves that are stiff plastic. My question is would getting them all graded be my best bet if my goal is to sell? Or are these old cards being raw more of a value to collectors. My goal is to sell all of them. But with historical prices on these Koufax cards being so different graded vs raw, I’d be interested in some opinions. Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • mintonlyplsmintonlypls Posts: 2,069 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Those would be more valuable graded by PSA.

    mint_only_pls
  • CakesCakes Posts: 3,640 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 9, 2024 10:06AM

    @mintonlypls said:
    Those would be more valuable graded by PSA.

    This is good advice. Once graded you will have multiple seller paths you can take. Good luck!

    If you attach pics we can assist further.

    Successful coin BST transactions with Gerard and segoja.

    Successful card BST transactions with cbcnow, brogurt, gstarling, Bravesfan 007, and rajah 424.
  • 19591959 Posts: 631 ✭✭✭

    Yes. Grade with PSA . Even low grades will bring more than raw. Plus ,buyers know they are authentic.

  • JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 11,881 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Welcome to the boards!

    Pictures would be nice. Generally speaking, get the Koufax, Killebrew, Williams, and any other Hall of Fame players graded.

    Did you get a Clemente? Possibly the most valuable in the 1955 set.

    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
  • Chicago1976Chicago1976 Posts: 554 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Agree with all posts here. If you are selling, get them graded by either PSA or SGC. Graded vintage cards are easier to price and sell. Grading provides a standardized assessment of a card's condition, which helps in accurately determining its market value. And assures the buyer the card is authentic.

  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,217 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Grading cards from this era can be a challenge. And it likely would be a wise decision, but do alittle research to see what the grading standards are as well as expectations for various grade levels. There are significant spreads between grades. Having some appreciation as to the importance of condition and grading will help you determine what cards will benefit the most from a submission. Good luck.

    As a start, it would be a good idea to post afew pictures here as a previous poster suggested just to get some helpful opinions

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,217 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 11, 2024 7:46AM

    Thanks for sharing images of your Aunt’s cards. Without seeing the backs, it is difficult to offer a grade opinion or make solid recommendations. These look as if they have been fairly well cared fore over the years. I would have both Koufax cards graded- the first one has a problematic left bottom corner that will heavily influence the grade. On the bright side, the color seems vibrant and the centering looks okay. If I recall correctly, the Rhodes card is topps #1 for the 1955 series. It is difficult to obtain in a high grade such as an 8 or 9. Your Rhodes card looks to be well short of obtaining that grade. And for that reason, I would probably not submit that one.

    I suspect others that participate here might have a better point of reference than me as to numerical grades. I am not certain if the first Koufax card grade would be discounted to a 3 or 3.5 because of what looks to be an indentation which should not be viewed as bad as a crease. The second one could be in the 3 to 3.5 range as it does not look quite as vibrant as the first. I don’t think any of the cards will grade at 6 or higher.

    If you do choose to have them graded, just accept the fact that vintage cards are graded conservatively. To regular people, these are attractive cards but collectors have a way of magnifying minimal condition issues which have become engrained and part of the grading process. I look forward to reading what others here think and write. Best of luck with the submission decisions.

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • Thank you. Very informative. I think I’ll send the Koufax cards for grading. Mainly out of curiosity. I’ll put them in my safe and just see what happens from there. Maybe the end up in my sons hands years from now. Appreciate the feedback. I’ll update when I get them back for those interested.

  • Stone193Stone193 Posts: 24,420 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Hiya Duby

    And welcome buddy.

    Those Koufax's look pretty nice. Looking forward to the grades.

    BTW. Do you have a Snider? It's the last card in the set and goes for righteous dough - a 7 may get ya a couple of grand or so.

    Best of luck.

    Mike
  • 19591959 Posts: 631 ✭✭✭

    Send them all in at the low rate ( 20 something per card). No mater the grade each would sell for more. . if PSA thinks that is not enough, they will ask for more and that's a good thing

  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,217 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The ‘55 Berra if I recall correctly is higher number as well and somewhat challenging at higher grade levels.

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • BBBrkrrBBBrkrr Posts: 1,313 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If you're going to put them in the safe I'd grade them all. That'll keep them from getting more random damage in the future. You'll also spread the cost of the grading over a long time so it will effectively be free.

  • mintonlyplsmintonlypls Posts: 2,069 ✭✭✭✭✭

    1955 Willie Mays…an important high number.

    mint_only_pls
  • smallstockssmallstocks Posts: 1,636 ✭✭✭✭

    Even if you plan to keep some, I would get all the stars graded.


    Late 60's and early to mid 70's non-sports
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