Doily Ring Repair Tutorial
DRUNNER
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Occasionally, I receive a request for the instructions on 'fixing' a Doily without an outer shell (ring). Although I am out of the 'Doily game' now (my efforts to corner the market just drove the Census from 125 up to the thousands there now!!!!), the increased number of Doilies coming to market also caused an increase in the number of damaged Doilies that have been found. Also, there seems to be a premium put on the 'perfect' Doily holder now. That wasn't as prevalent 15 years ago. So, here goes. . . . .
It is a touch more imprecise and unpredictable than you may imagine . . . but the problem is not in the procedure, it is in finding the correct raw materials to do the job.
Obviously, the ring is what you need to complete the task. The PCGS 2.0 is the logical choice as it is not a particularly valuable holder yet has the exact ring you need to fix the Doily. If you are unsure which slab is a 2.0 . . . look at the bottom of the PCGS home page for the historical slab link. The 'imprecise' part of these instructions is this . . . . . .you need a 2.0 that is just a bit 'loose', i.e. it cracks a bit around the seam as you twist it. About 50% of the 2.0s work very easily . . . the rest would work but are usually a bit tough to get to loosen up around the central slab (core).
You will rapidly see which 2.0s I am referring to once you test a couple. Some nearly fall apart . . . most just require a bit of help. What we are looking for is a 'clamshell' effect . . . a 2.0 that we can get one long side open on. Once you find one that seems a bit loose around the core, use an Exacto knife to insert it along the longitudinal edge and sweep it through the seam (lightly) up to and slightly around the rounded corner. Once you have primed to seam and loosened the ring around one long side, you can carefully slip either the Exacto blade or any other rigid thin tool into the seam and lever the slab open on one long side.
The core will drop out as it is not secured to the ring, and your Doily core can now slide in, without even opening the full ring (no destruction or damage occurs at all). Just open the edge enough to slide the two cores, and it will drop exactly back into place. A small drop of Superglue anywhere along the opened long side will seal the Doily and it is perfect. The ring does not have to be completely separated . . . just lift the long (primed) side up enough to slide the core in (half inch) and it will preserve the other long side and most of the two short sides.
*****Later (post-2.0) editions of the 2-piece holder WILL work, but they have subtle changes to the ring that (for a purist) are inauthentic, AND in some cases, are holders nearly as rare as the Doily. . . meaning you would not want to destroy the intact rare slab.*****
Problems occur when you get an inordinately 'tight' 2.0 (rare) or rush the procedure with a ring that has a few more sonically welded spots than you first suspect. But a bit of patience will work as you slowly lever the side up.
I know it isn't an exact science . . . but there is basically no risk of any damage, and the ring (of a 2.0) is an exact replacement. You are left with a 2.0 core that is virtually a Rattler. I usually use simple Proof Franklins, Jeffs, or maybe an ultracommon Morgan.
I repaired dozens 'back in the Doily days', for myself and others. The problem in the last 10 years or so is a gradual diminishing of 2.0s on the bourse floor, particularly those that are super easy to loosen up.
But it works, is cheap, ethical (for anyone reselling a damaged Doily), and easy.
Have fun. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drunner
Comments
Great tutorial.
I'd only add if a purist isn't impressed with adding a Doily to their collection that has been repaired in such a fashion, a black light will show the spot the superglue was applied.
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Thank you for this information @DRUNNER
How were they sealed from the factory at the corners? Sonic?
I am not certain, other than to state PCGS didn't use Superglue.
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