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When you see a neat coin offerred

FrankHFrankH Posts: 945 ✭✭✭✭✭

...and it's a .... duplicate..... but the one you already have is ...nicer...
would you buy the "newp" just because ? :/

Comments

  • OAKSTAROAKSTAR Posts: 7,214 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No, I don't think so. Not if the coin isn't nicer then the one I already have.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )

  • BarbercoinBarbercoin Posts: 1,006 ✭✭✭

    Happened to me just the other night. A gorgeous slabbed AU50 1905s Barber 25c was up on eBay. I was all set to bid in the closing minute and decided to checked my book. Only to find out that this would have been my fourth! I gotta pay closer attention! Selling dupes are hard for me especially when they are beautiful coins in my number one series.

    WTB: Barber Quarters XF

  • CRHer700CRHer700 Posts: 1,940 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If you were getting a good deal then I would buy it anyway and resell it. Also, you could see if anyone wants you to buy it for them, since it might be a much better example than what they have.

    God bless all who believe in him. Do unto others what you expect to be done to you. Dubbed a "Committee Secret Agent" by @mr1931S on 7/23/24. Founding member of CU Anti-Troll League since 9/24/24.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,320 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 26, 2024 12:07PM

    I don’t mind owning duplicates, but they must be of equal quality or better.

    Such as my 3 45-S Coins and my two 34 P Coins.

    The first 45 S is a 65 in an old gold Foil holder and has wild toning, so it is very unique. The second 45 S Coin is a 66 in an older NGC and it also has nice toning and a good strike. The third 45 S Coin is a PCGS and has a very sharp strike for the issue and it is mostly white.

    The first ‘34 has original surfaces and great strike. It’s a 66 in old NGC fatty and the second ‘34 is a 66+ in a PCGS slab with moderate toning.

    So, as you can tell each one is very unique and individual and I love the quality of all of them.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • goldengolden Posts: 9,614 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No.

  • johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 28,338 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Maybe, if it's something that I might like own for whatever reason

  • Mr_SpudMr_Spud Posts: 5,359 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 26, 2024 12:00PM

    Sometimes. If it is a coin or token I really like, I tend to buy multiple examples that are different grades or toned differently. But if I’m working on a set of coins, I tend to not purchase duplicates unless I’m trying to upgrade.

    For example, I really like these Boyd’s Batteries which are actually medallions but are bought and sold as tokens too. I can’t seem to get enough of them and will purchase them if I find ones at a good price and/or if they have some feature I like.

    And I also recently purchased this So-Called Dollar even though I already had one just because this one comes with the original paperwork and packaging

    Mr_Spud

  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,305 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I see no reason that I would.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,305 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I see no reason that I would.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • jacrispiesjacrispies Posts: 935 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I claim I collect bust halves by die state so there is little chance of overlap. If it is a good enough deal you have to buy it!

    "But seek ye first the kingdom of God and His righteousness and all these things shall be added unto you" Matthew 6:33. Young fellow suffering from Bust Half fever.
    BHNC #AN-10
    JRCS #1606

  • jesbrokenjesbroken Posts: 10,002 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If affordable for me, then yes I would, assuming it is a coin of my interest and not readily available.
    Jim


    When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln

    Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 34,247 ✭✭✭✭✭

    There's no such thing as a duplicate. I don't care about dates or mint marks or die varieties. If The Coin is desirable, I buy it. If not, I don't. I don't consult a list. I don't fill holes.

  • lermishlermish Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It's very difficult for me to stop myself sometimes.

  • humanssuckhumanssuck Posts: 420 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I've done that by accident....it's pretty disappointing realizing you dropped ~$2k on a coin you don't need that is not as nice as the one you already have.

  • FrankHFrankH Posts: 945 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Yeah but there aren't a lot of 1933 Saints. :o:D:p

  • Morgan13Morgan13 Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Ihad to wein myself off of buying 1921 PL .Morgan's. It took a few weeks but I feel better now.

    Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
    Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
    Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan

  • CopperindianCopperindian Posts: 1,482 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have an affinity for toned Indians & Flyers. If I already have one of a particular date, I’ll still buy if I like it well enough.

    “The thrill of the hunt never gets old”

    PCGS Registry: Screaming Eagles
    Copperindian

    Retired sets: Soaring Eagles
    Copperindian

  • BarberianBarberian Posts: 3,581 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Yes. I've done it in the past with a few commemoratives and with seated halves that I find attractive. I even have duplicate die marriages for some of the scarcer Seated Liberty half DMs and send duplicates to be graded.



    3 rim nicks away from Good
  • SapyxSapyx Posts: 2,210 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I never keep duplicates. Never. So to rephrase the OP's question for me personally, that would be "Would you deliberately buy a downgrade?". To which the answer is "Obviously, no".

    Have I (accidentally) bought duplicates where the "new" coin is worse than the old coin? Yes, all the time. When this happens I immediately toss the "new" coin into the "coins to sell when I get around to it" pile, and will usually sell it off in a coin club auction a few months later for considerably less than what I paid for it.

    Waste no more time arguing what a good man should be. Be one.
    Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius, "Meditations"

    Apparently I have been awarded one DPOTD. B)
  • Jacques_LoungecoqueJacques_Loungecoque Posts: 733 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I personally don’t enjoy the level of financial freedom to indulge such an option. That and I’m working almost solely on a very particular 1900+ type set. A double if anything serves no purpose to me. Lastly, with all the potential coins in the world, why tie up the funds on the same exact coin? But, of course to each their own!

    Having fun while switching things up and focusing on a next level PCGS slabbed 1950+ type set, while still looking for great examples for the 7070.

  • Clackamas1Clackamas1 Posts: 970 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would not, I have enough of the coins that I upgraded and did not sell the lesser duplicate to make that problem worse.

  • NeophyteNumismatistNeophyteNumismatist Posts: 1,073 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have been successful in not duplicating so far. There are so many coins I would love to have that are different from what I already have.

    I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.

  • Mr_SpudMr_Spud Posts: 5,359 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I also went through a period where I used to cherry pick Morgan 1921-s Thornheads and the more popular Morgan 1921-d VAMs in the book called Fun With 21 1921-D VAMS. I used to scan for the pick up points all the 1921-d and 1921-s on eBay just by doing searches and looking at the thumbnail images on the search result page without even opening the auctions when I was bored or even when I watched TV shows. I ended up with a whole bunch of duplicates. I still have most of them, either slabbed by PCGS for the nicer ones, or raw in Wayte Raymond albums.

    Mr_Spud

  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,445 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I buy nice for the grade/price duplicate large cents, early walkers, and type just about whenever I can. The eye is on reselling them, but admittedly sometimes it takes years before I get around to offering them.

    Successful BST transactions with 171 members. Ebeneezer, Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • DocBenjaminDocBenjamin Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would defer to Harold. He always has the right answer.

  • alaura22alaura22 Posts: 3,191 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

  • Cougar1978Cougar1978 Posts: 8,228 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No

    Coins & Currency
  • tcollectstcollects Posts: 1,058 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I use excuses like miniscule varieties and die cracks to justify buying a lower grade dupe purchase. Even an unverified hunch that one of my collector buddies might like it in the distant future is enough for an impulsive buy. It still has to be rare and pretty.

  • emeraldATVemeraldATV Posts: 4,582 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Twins ?
    Progression ? (which would be an interesting set to collect)
    Any other agenda that explains why someone would take this approach does not sit well with me.
    But whatever pulls your coach is none of my concern, as long as it's not confused with the real thing.
    Their is no I in team, but there is a me.
    Lol.

  • GotTheBugGotTheBug Posts: 1,629 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:
    There's no such thing as a duplicate. I don't care about dates or mint marks or die varieties. If The Coin is desirable, I buy it. If not, I don't. I don't consult a list. I don't fill holes.

    I commend you for your freewheeling approach. Someone once described album collecting as something like "the tyranny of filling holes". There's something truthful in that sentiment....

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,069 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @alaura22 said:
    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

    It works for stocks, it's pretty difficult to do for coins with the bid and ask (commissions) so far apart.

  • FrankHFrankH Posts: 945 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DocBenjamin said:
    I would defer to Harold. He always has the right answer.

    That's a myth. Harold obviously needs more fiber. :/

  • DocBenjaminDocBenjamin Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DisneyFan said:

    @alaura22 said:
    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

    It works for stocks, it's pretty difficult to do for coins with the bid and ask (commissions) so far apart.

    Still waiting for my Enron to rebound.

  • FrankHFrankH Posts: 945 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DocBenjamin said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @alaura22 said:
    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

    It works for stocks, it's pretty difficult to do for coins with the bid and ask (commissions) so far apart.

    Still waiting for my Enron to rebound.

    Isn't Enron a commem? :s

  • alaura22alaura22 Posts: 3,191 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DisneyFan said:

    @alaura22 said:
    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

    It works for stocks, it's pretty difficult to do for coins with the bid and ask (commissions) so far apart.

    Not quite sure what you're saying
    If I bought a coin for $500 all in and the value was $400 I paid too much.
    THEN I buy the another coin of the same grade for $300 all in, now I have 2 coins that cost me $800 all in. Now the average cost is $400
    Sorry for the misspelling of the word average in the 1st post

  • SurfinxHISurfinxHI Posts: 2,458 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I think Morgan’s can be pretty neat. I own many duplicates…. :'(:D;)

    Dead people tell interesting tales.
  • BarberianBarberian Posts: 3,581 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @emeraldATV said:
    Twins ?
    Progression ? (which would be an interesting set to collect)
    Any other agenda that explains why someone would take this approach does not sit well with me.
    But whatever pulls your coach is none of my concern, as long as it's not confused with the real thing.
    Their is no I in team, but there is a me.
    Lol.

    I do some hoarding
    I have about 20 1855/54 SLH overdates alone.
    I have three rolls of circulated 1919 Lincoln cents.
    I had 29 SLH small letters reverse coins ('39-'42) for 11 slots BEFORE I started collecting by DMs.
    Would you be interested in a roll of 1960-D small dates hoarded from circulation?

    Please don't hurt me.

    3 rim nicks away from Good
  • oldabeintxoldabeintx Posts: 1,934 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I don’t do anything “just because”.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,069 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @alaura22 said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @alaura22 said:
    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

    It works for stocks, it's pretty difficult to do for coins with the bid and ask (commissions) so far apart.

    Not quite sure what you're saying
    If I bought a coin for $500 all in and the value was $400 I paid too much.
    THEN I buy the another coin of the same grade for $300 all in, now I have 2 coins that cost me $800 all in. Now the average cost is $400
    Sorry for the misspelling of the word average in the 1st post

    No disrespect. The last coin you bought was $300. What do you think could turn around and sell it for?
    Going a step further, your average cost was $400 for the two coins. What do you think you could turn around and sell both of them for?
    Yes, if the coin goes up significantly in value from that time, you would make a profit. A 15% GC total commission amd a possible wholesale bid needs to be overcome first.

  • alaura22alaura22 Posts: 3,191 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DisneyFan said:

    @alaura22 said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @alaura22 said:
    I do it sometimes for cost advantaging if I paid too much for the 1st one

    It works for stocks, it's pretty difficult to do for coins with the bid and ask (commissions) so far apart.

    Not quite sure what you're saying
    If I bought a coin for $500 all in and the value was $400 I paid too much.
    THEN I buy the another coin of the same grade for $300 all in, now I have 2 coins that cost me $800 all in. Now the average cost is $400
    Sorry for the misspelling of the word average in the 1st post

    No disrespect. The last coin you bought was $300. What do you think could turn around and sell it for?
    Going a step further, your average cost was $400 for the two coins. What do you think you could turn around and sell both of them for?
    Yes, if the coin goes up significantly in value from that time, you would make a profit. A 15% GC total commission amd a possible wholesale bid needs to be overcome first.

    I am not a coin dealer, I buy coins that I like and build sets.
    I do not flip coins as some do here, I believe when/if the time comes to sell I'm better off with 2 coins @ $400 each then 1 coin @ $500 Just the way I see it

  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,111 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I doubt this question resonated within what was expected. Some coins are quite rare at various grade levels which should not surprise those that have an understanding as to what matters

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • emeraldATVemeraldATV Posts: 4,582 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Barberian said:

    @emeraldATV said:
    Twins ?
    Progression ? (which would be an interesting set to collect)
    Any other agenda that explains why someone would take this approach does not sit well with me.
    But whatever pulls your coach is none of my concern, as long as it's not confused with the real thing.
    Their is no I in team, but there is a me.
    Lol.

    I do some hoarding
    I have about 20 1855/54 SLH overdates alone.
    I have three rolls of circulated 1919 Lincoln cents.
    I had 29 SLH small letters reverse coins ('39-'42) for 11 slots BEFORE I started collecting by DMs.
    Would you be interested in a roll of 1960-D small dates hoarded from circulation?

    Please don't hurt me.

    Hoarded from circulation, is that even possible ?
    What you need some courage along with your brains and with such a big heart ?
    No, but thank you.
    I'm already on to something with the small date 60 D's in house.
    And may all your D's be forever in your favor.

  • ChrisH821ChrisH821 Posts: 6,506 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No...














    Just kidding, yes.

    And the number of "extra" '36-'42 proofs I have is... high.

    Collector, occasional seller

  • FrankHFrankH Posts: 945 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 28, 2024 6:25AM

    @oldabeintx said:
    I don’t do anything “just because”.

    "Just because" can mean any reason (or reason/S) you can think of.
    It's NOT a sign of ignorance.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,069 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ChrisH821 said:
    No...
    Just kidding, yes.

    Maybe a MS65 next time?

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