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Gray film and yellowish residue on wheat cents

hummingbird_coinshummingbird_coins Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭✭✭

A while ago, my dad and I discovered 19 uncirculated 1926 wheat cents, and about a full roll of uncirculated 1934 wheat cents in customer-wrapped bank rolls. Many of them have original toning, predominantly dark orange and purple. They look really good, but when viewed at an angle, there appears to be a film on the surfaces wherever the toning is present. Also, one of the 1926 and more than half of the 1934 cents have some sort of residue on them. I want to submit these coins for grading soon (or at least, after the TrueView mess is cleaned up) and I would like to know about the "film": Is it a negative factor when the coins are being graded? If so, what is the best way to remove it? And the tape residue: Is it removable? If so, what should I use and how? Acetone?



Another, less related question: Does PCGS have a method in which they remove any detritus/dust sitting on the coin's surface prior to encapsulation?

Young Numismatist • My Toned Coins
Life is roadblocks. Don't let nothing stop you, 'cause we ain't stopping. - DJ Khaled

Comments

  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,755 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Acetone should remove any haze on them without harming the coin/toning.
    bob :)

    Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,262 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I do not see anything in your photos that I would submit to any TPG. Acetone may help with a couple but it can do nothing to remove toning and fingerprints.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • 291fifth291fifth Posts: 24,323 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Under no circumstances should you send in those coins for grading or restoration. They all appear to be problem coins of one sort or another. Don't throw good money after bad.

    All glory is fleeting.
  • MFeldMFeld Posts: 13,417 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The cost of grading would far exceed the value of the coins, whether they were ungraded or graded.

    Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.

  • ifthevamzarockinifthevamzarockin Posts: 8,844 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I don't see anything that I would send for grading.

    After they are cleaned up a little bit I don't think you will be happy with the grading results.

  • Namvet69Namvet69 Posts: 8,950 ✭✭✭✭✭

    As others have said, mint state condition is pretty obvious when you compare these coins to graded cents. Our host has photograde examples of wheat cents for you to reference. Good luck. Peace Roy

    BST: endeavor1967, synchr, kliao, Outhaul, Donttellthewife, U1Chicago, ajaan, mCarney1173, SurfinHi, MWallace, Sandman70gt, mustanggt, Pittstate03, Lazybones, Walkerguy21D, coinandcurrency242 , thebigeng, Collectorcoins, JimTyler, USMarine6, Elkevvo, Coll3ctor, Yorkshireman, CUKevin, ranshdow, CoinHunter4, bennybravo, Centsearcher, braddick, Windycity, ZoidMeister, mirabela, JJM, RichURich, Bullsitter, jmski52, LukeMarshall, coinsarefun, MichaelDixon, NickPatton, ProfLiz, Twobitcollector,Jesbroken oih82w8

  • OAKSTAROAKSTAR Posts: 7,049 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Double check the 34's for DDO's.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )

  • OAKSTAROAKSTAR Posts: 7,049 ✭✭✭✭✭

    After the above suggestions, I'd hit those babies with VERDI-CARE as well but that's just me.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )

  • CregCreg Posts: 414 ✭✭✭✭

    If you want to practice grading for the experience, do it. The results disappoint people sometimes, though. If you can attach sentimental value to a coin from that batch, as well, send it on in. It’ll cost around fifty dollars. We’ve all been there. I search and buy “underwater slabs” and it would be sad to see your results for sale.
    If it were I, I would heed these guys, though.

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