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Card Appraisal Help
Reutless
Posts: 11 ✭
Hey everyone,
Pulled this card the other day and since it’s a 1/1, I’m not sure how to value it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
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Reutless
Posts: 11 ✭
Reutless
Posts: 11 ✭
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Welcome to the boards!
I have no idea what it's worth, but it's an awesome card.
PSA will let you know when they upcharge you!!!
I LOVE it when that happens and wish it happened more often, because it means the card's grade is making it worth a lot more than I expected.
I was curious about these inserts so...
The PSA Set is. TOPPS CHROME ALL-STAR ROOKIE TEAM AUTOGRAPHS.
For the Trout there are 4 PSA 10s and 3 PSA 9s (Talking about the base). This one (assuming it's real) would be the 1/1 SuperFractor according to cardboard-connection & tcdb.
a 9 Judge sold on eBay for $642 6/22
a 9 Harper sold on eBay for $224.50 9/23
I couldn't find any "SuperFractors" that sold. (I didn't check VCP because I dropped my subscription recently), but I guess those would have some multiplier. You could look at what people want vs. what things have actually sold for, but it seems like grading that card is worth it, and I would price it based on those comps there (in the middle) and submit under a value submission with $500 value and then see what they upcharge based on the SuperFractorFactor, if anything. There won't be any easy comp. they can pull.
Seems like a cool series that I totally missed because I don't know anything about modern. I also saw that people have had these autographed inserts autographed by the players and dual graded with PSA/DNA, and I think that's really cool.
Please update if you grade it and what it comes back as.
A search using 130point.com for "2020 Topps Chrome all star rookie team" shows a PSA 10 Trout sold in 2020 for $1,050 via PWCC auction. The link is too old to pull up the original listing / image of card so can't see if card had serial number.
My cards on COMC
This one is 12/15.... !
Comps from 2020 and 2021 don't really count.
The exact card from the above PWCC sale for $780, sold for $1050 just 3 months prior.
A PSA 10, Auto 10 Trout Red Refractor /5 sold for $1775 in Oct 2020.
There's currently an ungraded Ryne Sandberg 1/1 for sale (not sold) for $2500 obo.
My thought is post it on eBay with a high price and OBO to see what hits. I’m afraid of getting it graded because it it comes back anything below a 9, it won’t be a good look.
I saw that one too. Mine being a 1/1, I feel, should at least be 5x as much.
My local card shop said to put a tag of 10k-15k and see what hits.
My initial response is $1500-$2500 as is. With the Red/5 PSA 10 doing $1775, could be upwards of $3500 if it gems. If he was having an MVP season, probably be a $5k card graded PSA 10. If you dont see any surface issues that can drop it below a PSA 9, I dont think it'll hurt to grade it.
I understand what you are saying, but if you don't really see anything wrong with it, I'd send it in for a dual grade. You could try putting in the notes that if it does not get a PSA 9 or higher, to please label as authentic with an auto grade. You could also say to not put auto grade if not a psa 10. Worst case, you can send it back for a reholder with the label the way you want it. But I don't think I'd try selling it raw......
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I pulled this #/25 from a blaster back in 2018. It was quite the thrill to pull an auto of one of my all-time favorite players 😉, but like most modern players, his autograph is just a scribble...AND he signs a ton of stuff. Nearly every card release for over a decade has Trouty autos included. As much as it just kiiiiilled me to do it, I opted to sell it. I immediately listed it raw on eBay with no reserve on a 10 day auction during one of their "no seller fees" promotions, and it sold for $962.
The buyer sent it off to PSA for dual grading, and it came back double dimes. I was quite shocked when I saw this! Let alone my opinion on the actual condition of the card, this autograph example has terrible eye appeal (in my opinion) because of the poor ink flow, appearing faded and actually skipping in spots. My buyer then immediately listed the newly graded card on eBay for BIN prices near $2,000, but over time kept dropping the price, and months later, I believe it eventually sold for around $1300. (I'm sure someone knows how to look all of this up, in case my memory is failing.) Factor in his grading fees, possible selling fees, the risk associated with winding up with unappealing grades, and the opportunity cost on his capital for those 6 months or so, and I don't regret my decision to sell raw one bit.
Back to your card... what a great pull! I was not aware of that Rookie Cup subset. I wouldn't know how to accurately peg the value of a 1/1 of a Trouty autographed card where there are already an abundance of other Trouty autos out there, but all it takes is 2 bidders that both want to win an auction, or an impulsive buyer with deep pockets stumbling upon your BIN listing, if that's the route you take.
Good luck!
Yeah I may just send it in to get at least an auto grade. I see an edging issue up on the top back edge of the card which scares me. Thank you
Thank you! I’m hoping 2 buyers really get in a war over it haha
Why pay to have the auto graded? And honestly, it's a 1/1 so why have it graded at all?
Auto grades to me, seem to be the biggest waste of money. On new stuff, 99% of the time you are getting a 9 or 10 and if you get a 9 it could hurt the resale value of the card.
Personally, I would never pay more for a card just because it has the autograph graded 10.
Now, I understand auto grades on older autos but not new stuff.
If you are selling, clear pictures and scans should be good and I agree with others above. It should probably fall in the $2-4k range since Trout is on the shelf once again.
If it doesn’t look absolutely perfect, grading it is just throwing money away. Let someone else play that game.
Do you think since it’s his rookie photograph that it increases the value at all?
Since it's not an actual rookie card, it shouldn't matter.
I would pay to have the card dual graded because many autograph collectors prefer it. The autograph grades are indicative of the quality but because they are so picky about dry ink streaks in autographs at times there are many nice autographs out there which are 8s, 9s, or only graded authentic. I would rather have a card with a pen signature graded a 6 than Authentic because the seller thought it would look bad.
I think grading it allows you to maximize your value if it grades a 10 and allows you sell it with more confidence that the buyer will be content.
The cost to dual grade it seems like such a small fraction of the value and you can always crack it if it comes back a 3 you can decide whether you want to sell it as such or crack it and pass your bad luck off on someone else.
As for the 2018 heritage trout auto there. I’m also surprised that came back a 10 for auto. That should be a 9 with the streak.
I’m not a trout collector so I have no idea what it’s worth to a collector. I don’t know whether auctioning it is a good idea or not but I would be a little scared that I don’t get the right traffic. I might consign that with 4sc to get more eyes and bids. Good luck.
Yeaaahhhh.... since it is a 1/1 it will be in the database and easy to find for anyone that is doing a little research. If I found a card that was previously graded then cracked and is being sold raw yet the seller isn't disclosing what the grade had been, i would figure they are a shady seller and avoid anything they are selling.
If you were the proper shade of shadiness, you'd crack it, then mail the flip back to PSA so they REMOVE the grade from the DB, as it no longer exists in the world....
I'm not suggesting to scam people.
I just don't really differentiate between... "I know this isn't a 10, so I'm just going to sell it raw and let people think it could gem." vs. "I know this isn't a 10 because it graded an 8, so I am going to crack and sell it raw.". You might and that's fine.
But, for clarity, when you send in your labels, which I sure hope most people do as the pop counts are broken enough already, the cert is removed from the database. I wouldn't trust your method myself.
I would grade it because it's cheap to grade, and if it did gem, I think I would get more than if I sold it raw. Whatever it graded, I would just sell it as is. The argument I'm hearing is... it might not gem - and the card owner doesn't think it will gem, so sell it raw and let others think it might.
Anyways, Just another opinion. Not going to defend it unless someone wants to take things out of context again to assert something nefarious. I like trout fishing. Not Trout fishing.
Lets get a good look at the card so we can decipher the PSA 9ish of it (since from what i can see a 10 is not happening, but hard to tell with the toploader and sleeve.)
Give us front and back "naken" pics, no sleeve, no toploader. Regardless, pretty sure the auto is a 10.
That's his auto? Consider me fooled. I thought it was a diagram for the roller coaster at the newest Disneyland theme park.
Come on people now. Smile on your brothers.
I’ll get a good pic tomorrow. Currently have an infant sleeping on me and I don’t know if there’s any hidden excrement on me.
The pics a blurry... not sharp, so still hard to tell. Also, do it on a dark background, no flash, good lighting... The first pics you took are actually more focused..
I hope these help more. I don’t wanna flood this post with crappy photos haha
Much better.... What is this that I circled on the front? Looks like some sort of surface issue. The back looks a little bit like a reach to get a PSA 9, looking more like an 8. I'd lean more towards an Authentic with PSA 10 auto. Having it slabbed makes it safer to sell, as you don't have to warrant the condition in any way to where someone could try to do a return.
That just looks like some sort of condensation on the photo. It’s not there anymore